I'll suggest adjusting valves with engine running on a street car all day long. Either open ear or using a stethoscope if one needs to. Works just fine. As I've stated before, just because you aren't smart enough to use one such technique does not mean it is bad for everyone else.

Just like a bag of poopie that shows up on the doorstep. The more u kick a bag of poopie the more poopie u get on your shoe.
No wonder there is a vlv train disaster on the forum every week with vlvs over adjusted open and backfiring and bent push rods and broken studs and broken rockers.

Again another post that has absolutely nothing to do with the original thread.

U are a big help,
cardo

 

LOL... you are out there I must say. I haven't had one bad experience with any of the valve adjusting techniques whether it's running or not. Those who do, it must be the tool behind the tool.

 

FWIW
I have set HR with the motor running, its just the way i learned many moons ago.Its pure preference!!

 

HEY NO CALLING ME A TOOL!!!!! well fine...... if its true, its true.

 

Did some looking in the archives here as a follow up to the posts here.
Ok, so u adj the vlv by sight only - but just as error likely as by sound only.


The spin the pushrod method causes a LOT of headaches, the vast majority of folks will go way too tight that way. No need to spin to find zero lash especially not with poly locks that you just spin down till they touch. Harder with stock locks but polylocks make it real easy.
__________________
96 Caprice with advanced Induction 200cc heads and cam package. 11.567 and 116mph

spinning the pushrod is the same as rolling the pushrod between your fingers. .....
Aftermarket polylocks spin freely on the stud till you tighten down the allen heads in the polylock or take out all the lash unlike the stock nuts which are always hard to turn. The manuals for stock vehicles say nothing about setting the allen head screw in the polylock so since that is not in the manual should we neglect it?

And your other claim: I have not been banned from other forums for my malicious attacks. Well a little archive search over on Z28CAMARO.COM and your last post was 11-04-2011, 3 years ago. Hmmm, thats a long time for an LT1 enthusiast, self proclaimed very knowledgeable on the LT1 to wait to post again.

The more i have to deal with u the more i find u are a chronic lair. U truly in need some professional help. I worry for those that listen to u.

Yes, u all know who im talk'n about. Dont have to mention names.

 

Do you mean camaroz28.com? If so, when a member is banned it will state as such under the screen name. cz28.com is dead. I haven't posted there in almost two years and I've been there since it was a mailing list.
I think if cannabis is legalized in CA you're going to pop a fuse, mr. cardo0. Holy ****.

 

How does sight have anything to do with that adjustment method? Plin the polylock down till it makes contact, you can feel it, then check to make sure the pushrod doesn't move vertically inline with the rocker and lifter ensuring all clearance is gone and zero lash is achieved, then add preload.

To continue spinning the polylock by finger after zero lash is acheived would require force to begine colapsing the lifter plunger adding preload. You are trying very hard to pretend I am wrong.

Far as the other forum, does it say I was banned? No it it says "registered user", banned member get "banned" listed under their screen name. Also check your math it has been little over 2 years since I chose to post on that other forum, again you are just so eager to attack you can't be bothered to understand your own research.
Please comment on the many parts I have mentioned that are routinely used to run over .520 lift in LT1s with the heads never removed for machining or longer valves?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-opinions.html
Now I will say I don't think you can get away with that much lift on stock valves with stock seals and retainers.

I am siting many sets of parts and examples of guys running well over what you say works and you just keep trying to make it a personal attack, who is ignoring the real world and may be in need of professional help?

The LT4 HOT kit alone makes you wrong a .525 lift package sold by GM, probably the very first cam kit offered for the LT1.

 

Yes, BFD a typo, CamaroZ28.com is what i ment. Go post another 30 posts about my typos maybe your mother will care.

Ah yes, he knows who im talking about. No, no, no, thats not what u posted. U said spinning or rolling the p-rod to check for zero lash is causing a lot of headaches and most will somehow go way to tight. U claim to somehow tighten down allen heads or take out all the lash but how is anyones guess. U claim rolling the p-rod somehow wont check for zero lash. Now u are claiming to Plin the polylock down till it makes contact and check the p-rod doesnt move vertically. What a bunch of regurgitation crap, thats exactly what rolling the p-rod is doing.

U are just to mentally incompetent to understand simple concepts like checking the p-rod by rolling. U dont know the difference from a high tech vlv lofting that NASCAR uses and vlv float. U are not only a source of bad information and your advice is lousy at best but u continue to harass and slander others.

Anyone with that much dyslectic problems needs help before he hurts himself or more likely others. U are so dishonest u probably know the taste of prison food.

Shut up or get off the forum,
cardo

 

card0, you're the idiot who needs to get off the forum.
Maybe there's a 5th grade tech school somewhere around you where you could go blabber and get the guru-worship you crave.

 

cardo what am I lying about? I have not been banned from cz28. Your repeated claims that I am dishonest are themselves the dishonesty in this thread.

Spinning the polylock nut till it touches the trunnion is zero lash, I never said spin the allen head bolt down to find zero, that is just you making things up trying to pretend I am wrong somehow.

I know the difference between lofting and power robbing valve float, lofting is throwing the lifter over the nose of the cam to achieve lift beyond what the lobe provides, valve float as it is discussed here is a loss of power from the valve bouncing off the seat after closing allowing the air/fuel charge to escape.

Now that I answered your comments please come up with some examples to support the debate at hand about how much lift is easily run on unmodified LT1 heads with just a spring change. The vast majority of cam only LT1s run more lift than you are saying will be difficult. Please cite a single example of someone having a problem running into lift problems anywhere near as low as you propose.

 

Pretty sure that profile has been around far longer than the LT1. Maybe not as long as the LT-1, but it was nothing new when branded the LT4 hotcam. I need an old curmudgeon to verify. Ed?

 

From someone who cant even post the correct vlv spring specs for his own part number that is some real hypocrisy. Talk 'bout idiots, u outa know. Well i sure dont post here to talk your dumb azz. Yea u know who, i dont have to use any names. No wonder your still butt hurt u dont know a mouse poop about stock chevy vlv springs - and i already proved that. Hey your on my list now too pal. Gloves are off. Your less than accurate advice deserves it.


I just quoted your own post using the allen head bolt and now u deny it - those are your own words - now eat them.

So u think vlv bounce is vlv float - i can read you are still ignorant. U still are unconscionable for advising others to use vlv float on a street cam and car. U totally ignore what damage u may have caused and continue to drop in other threads harassing others - accusing me saying something i didnt.

As i said before the OP needs to shop for and decide if he can find a spring tall enough to work on his stock vlvs. U still havent proved a vlv spring for the OP but managed run your mouth for 8 posts just defending your own dumb azz comments. Just because i warned the OP of trying to use too tall a vlv spring doesnt mean i came here to debate with the village idiot(s) how much lift a stock head/vlv can run. As a matter of fact i dont know and dont claim to. And why should i? I never plan run that much lift - at least for now. The real debate is why u continue to harass and accuse others just because u dont understand the concept. Why u dont just ask first before u accuse is your arrogance.

U think because u have learned a few things u can bad mouth anyone - u and that other ......nut.
But i have seen u bad mouth others just asking for help. Instead of encouraging new enthusiasts and comradery u do your best to degrade and embarrass them. No your not worth the effort to debate anything. My past experience with u is u try your best to distort the facts and change the topic to something u may actually understand or someone else dosent understand well enough.

Again, shut up.
cardo

 

I fail to see how this ongoing bantering is being helpful to the OP or anyone else that is seeking PROPER INFO and or ASSISTANCE.
Dwayne(96caprice) is a no holds barred no BS kind of guy........ i respect that! If you have something going on that is incorrect or questionable he will set you straight, if you are the open minded kind you will be able to advance from his knowledge. If you are thin skinned you will most likely get offended......
Now can we move on to the OPs resolution to HIS PROBLEM...... ??????

 

96lt1m6, the reason I don't let up is because people like cardo are very bad for forums spreading false info, if this teaches him to ignore cardo's input then it does help him.

cardo I agreed with someone who recommended the 918 which would work, I didn't need to come up with another because he was right. For that matter superspirit posted a like to alex parts springs that fit the bill too.
I also said that on pure lift capacity the $35 LT4 springs which were I believe called Z28 springs even before that are sold by GM for .525 lift on LT1 heads, there is a second part number that will work on lift capacity along though I am unsure if it would truly control the valve.
Far as the allen head comment reread what I wrote trying to understand it rather than looking for something to misinterpret, I said the polylock nut would spin free will the lash is at zero or the allen head is tightened meaning if the allen head is too deep in the lock it will stop the nut before zero lash is reached. If someone wants to understand it it makes sense but if someone with little understanding is blindly searching to attack me I can see how you would jump to all the wrong conclusions.

Far as what springs will work on a purely lift capacity basis basically all aftermarket LT1 springs will do the trick. I can't think of any rated to less than the LT4 .525.

On lofting/float the discussion you are talking about I told someone that accidental lofting on the street was not costing him HP and if valve float was costing HP it was the valve bouncing off the seat. I never suggested anyone loft valves on purpose on the street unless they do like a friend does and pay for the Spintron testing to validate it. I repeatedly challenged you to explain how having the valve train lose control over the nose would hurt power and you wouldn't even try much like you wont try and support your idea that we need longer valves for .520 lift. The lifter being thrown over the nose uncontrolled can break valvetrain but till that happens the free lift isn't hurting power.

So again we have you either misinterpreting what I wrote or deliberately lying about what I said.

I seriously think it is time for the moderators to do an IP check and see if you are a troll because I have a hard time believing someone could be so thick. You have ZERO fact behind you.

 

I fail to see how this ongoing bantering is being helpful to the OP or anyone else that is seeking PROPER INFO and or ASSISTANCE.
Dwayne(96caprice) is a no holds barred no BS kind of guy........ i respect that! If you have something going on that is incorrect or questionable he will set you straight, if you are the open minded kind you will be able to advance from his knowledge. If you are thin skinned you will most likely get offended......
Now can we move on to the OPs resolution to HIS PROBLEM...... ??????


Your right the bantering isnt going to help anyone. He just keeps denying any fault. If he wants to debate something he needs to start his own post. He wont because no one wants to have anything to do with him. And he makes up stories to support his ideas. Look now he says lofting is free lift and ok as long as u dont damage the lobe. Well who the hell is gonna buy a spintron to get it right?? Now he changes his story as he realizes valve lofting as he calls it can be damaging but he still dosent see the difference between lofting and vlv float and bouncing off the seat. I guess its too much effort to google and read it for himself. He would prefer the hearsay method as a source of information.
He breaks into this thread stating dont listen to my post advising to use caution but instead claiming I told the OP to use longer vlvs. Now he wants to debate max spring size for LT1, vlv float again. Why doesnt he just google for himself. Hes physiologically dysfunctional thats why and need professional help. Why would me or anyone want to debate with someone that can never admit wrong but continues to change his statements/stories and will fabricate his ideas like vlv lofting to support his lack of knowledge and understanding. But he continues to stalk around the forum harassing others at any opportunity. His very first post is "The OP would be well advised to not take any advise from cardo." Is that harassment or what is it? What did i say about him before that?? Why is he not responsible??? Because hes immature and mentally inadequate thats why.

I do apologize to the OP for this and hope he realizes how little this forum is policed by the moderators. I thought the OP had a darn good question want to help him and this thread though now sorry for him to see all this happen.

cardo