looks like he let off? and still ran a 7.88! 
went to the track in the formula
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Long Beach, MS
went to the track in the formula So I took the car down the road to the local dragstrip test and tune. I was pretty dissapointed. I think I need better tires as I just spun and had to get out of it because it was just getting too squirrely. Anyway first run was a 16.41 with a 2.69 60ft 
I was never able to get any traction off the line, but I did get to make a few passes and datalog them. I noticed that it was pulling the max timing the whole time even though i was not getting any knock showing in the log. I'm sure there's a lot more in it.
edit:some info in the car:
1994 formula
pacesetter long tubes, ORY, stock catback
ebay cai
full interior (jack/spare removed)
heavy z06 replicas with 275/40/17 bfgoodrich sport comp2
Here is the best one 13.76
I was never able to get any traction off the line, but I did get to make a few passes and datalog them. I noticed that it was pulling the max timing the whole time even though i was not getting any knock showing in the log. I'm sure there's a lot more in it.
edit:some info in the car:
1994 formula
pacesetter long tubes, ORY, stock catback
ebay cai
full interior (jack/spare removed)
heavy z06 replicas with 275/40/17 bfgoodrich sport comp2
Here is the best one 13.76
Last edited by fbody_brian; Mar 24, 2014 at 04:17 PM.
Get some DRs and you'll knock a half second off that ET. What the heck was in the other lane!
EDIT: Your MPH looks strong to me for your mods, you've got a good running car there Brian.
EDIT: Your MPH looks strong to me for your mods, you've got a good running car there Brian.
Last edited by guppymech; Mar 21, 2014 at 11:17 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Long Beach, MS
PCM also has been tuned some by me, and now that I have some good runs logged I expect to pick up a few more ponies from tuning, getting rid of the false knock. It appeared to be running the low octane timing.
I hate running against **** like that. So loud there's no chance to have any sort of concentration, nor being able to hear your own car at the line. I always let them go and launch a couple of seconds later.
Thread Starter
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From: Long Beach, MS
So I'm hoping that with some DRs, fixing the KR issue, and maybe a better CAI (big drop in MAP @5600),160 tstat, and catback I can get it to 12.9x. Possible?
Last edited by fbody_brian; Mar 22, 2014 at 10:06 PM.
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Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Long Beach, MS
I need new motor mounts so that may help a lot.
future plans are for some springs and 1.6 rolller rockers, and something like the crane 227, also to get the torque arm off the trans tailshaft. Just want a fairly quick fun to daily drive car.
Money is tight though, so one step at a time!
Thread Starter
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From: Long Beach, MS
I take it from your sig the car is an auto if it's the same Formula? Put a good converter in it. I had the same mods with a Vigi 3200 and it was running 12.8@102. I had some used Nittos NT555R on some old salad shooters, car cut low 1.7s 60fts very consistent. You can do similar with a converter, just throw some Mickey Thompsons on some old 16X8s. That Vigi 3200 was the best mod I made to it back when it was still an auto. My car still had 17s in the front, stock 3.23 gears, stock Throttle Body, Stock shift points and stock rockers. A healthy bolt on LT1 can be a deep 12 second car all day long. The trap speed is there do don't be disappointed.
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From: Long Beach, MS
Just a little update.
I know it's been well over a year, but I finally made it back to the track with the formula. got some drag radials and it just dead hooked. the DA last year when I went was around 500 and this time it was 1700 so I'm very happy with the improvement. I picked up .2 in the 60 and .4 in the 1/4. hoping with some better air it will drop some more. I really want to get a stall and possibly change the valve springs and rockers. I want to be solidly in the 12s.
So some DRs on salad shooters, tb bypass, and 3" catback netted me about a half a sec, or better if you consider the DA. Very happy with the car. It ran real consistent too.
My 60' was 1.92 every time but once where I pulled a 1.90 when I was in the other lane. Last edited by fbody_brian; Sep 28, 2015 at 08:08 AM.
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From: Long Beach, MS
That's what I'm leaning towards, but I am a little concerned about throttle response cruising around town. This car is a 90% street car and it's my DD.
Currently the shift points are set at 5750, I think that the shifts are complete at about 5900-6000, but my laptop died so I haven't datalogged it. Was thinking that anything over 6000 would be too much for the stock heads/cam.
Last edited by fbody_brian; Sep 30, 2015 at 09:47 AM.
You want to shift where the torque of the current gear * that gear ratio falls below the torque of the next gear at the new shifted rpm * that new gears ratio. What hits the tire is the torque * the transmission gear, and lower gears have higher ratio, so even though you may make 350lb ft at 4000 and 250 at 6000, if 250* old gear is greater than 350* new gear you shifted to early. It's been found, by myself and others, that the stock cam and heads with boltons goes fastest shifted at 6300. It may go faster shifting higher, but stock rod bolts start getting iffy.