fbody_brian

So I took the car down the road to the local dragstrip test and tune. I was pretty dissapointed. I think I need better tires as I just spun and had to get out of it because it was just getting too squirrely. Anyway first run was a 16.41 with a 2.69 60ft

I was never able to get any traction off the line, but I did get to make a few passes and datalog them. I noticed that it was pulling the max timing the whole time even though i was not getting any knock showing in the log. I'm sure there's a lot more in it.

edit:some info in the car:
1994 formula
pacesetter long tubes, ORY, stock catback
ebay cai
full interior (jack/spare removed)
heavy z06 replicas with 275/40/17 bfgoodrich sport comp2


Here is the best one 13.76

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Get some DRs and you'll knock a half second off that ET. What the heck was in the other lane!

EDIT: Your MPH looks strong to me for your mods, you've got a good running car there Brian.

fbody_brian

rail car, 149mph in the 1/8th looks like he let off? and still ran a 7.88!

fbody_brian

I was pretty happy with the mph

PCM also has been tuned some by me, and now that I have some good runs logged I expect to pick up a few more ponies from tuning, getting rid of the false knock. It appeared to be running the low octane timing.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I hate running against **** like that. So loud there's no chance to have any sort of concentration, nor being able to hear your own car at the line. I always let them go and launch a couple of seconds later.

fbody_brian

Yeah, i was kind of surprised. It was test and tune and I expected mostly street cars but I'd say 90% of the cars there were trailered there. everyone appeared to be on slicks and DRs but me. They kept spraying water in the bleachbox area and there was really no way for me to drive around it to keep the tires dry. I really wonder if they were still a little wet when trying to launch as I didn't do any big burnouts, just spun them over real good.

So I'm hoping that with some DRs, fixing the KR issue, and maybe a better CAI (big drop in MAP @5600),160 tstat, and catback I can get it to 12.9x. Possible?

F0x Slaughter

I ran the 13.8 103 with 2.4 60ft with pretty much the same mods.

Birdracing

The mp/h is showing a 12 second pass now with some drag radials, and more seat time I think you will get your 12 second pass.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

As far as the knock look at the passenger sides header clearance from the k member.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

mph will drop as the 60' foot drops. I don't know about 12's happening

fbody_brian

Passenger header is actually touching the motor mount, the part that attaches to the block.
I need new motor mounts so that may help a lot.

future plans are for some springs and 1.6 rolller rockers, and something like the crane 227, also to get the torque arm off the trans tailshaft. Just want a fairly quick fun to daily drive car.

Money is tight though, so one step at a time!

fbody_brian

I thought that the mph should remain pretty consistent? Also if I can wring a few more ponies out shouldn't the mph go up?

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

I take it from your sig the car is an auto if it's the same Formula? Put a good converter in it. I had the same mods with a Vigi 3200 and it was running 12.8@102. I had some used Nittos NT555R on some old salad shooters, car cut low 1.7s 60fts very consistent. You can do similar with a converter, just throw some Mickey Thompsons on some old 16X8s. That Vigi 3200 was the best mod I made to it back when it was still an auto. My car still had 17s in the front, stock 3.23 gears, stock Throttle Body, Stock shift points and stock rockers. A healthy bolt on LT1 can be a deep 12 second car all day long. The trap speed is there do don't be disappointed.

fbody_brian

Just a little update.
I know it's been well over a year, but I finally made it back to the track with the formula. got some drag radials and it just dead hooked. the DA last year when I went was around 500 and this time it was 1700 so I'm very happy with the improvement. I picked up .2 in the 60 and .4 in the 1/4. hoping with some better air it will drop some more. I really want to get a stall and possibly change the valve springs and rockers. I want to be solidly in the 12s.

So some DRs on salad shooters, tb bypass, and 3" catback netted me about a half a sec, or better if you consider the DA. Very happy with the car. It ran real consistent too. My 60' was 1.92 every time but once where I pulled a 1.90 when I was in the other lane.

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

Cool that you updated. Seems like you have a good running car for what you have done. Some minor suspension work might help drop your 60ft a little more. Not bad though.

MonmouthCtyLS7

iTrader: (6)

Trap doesn't look bad work on that 60. I ran a lot of LT1 13.7's w/ the same setup before Dr's

lt1-xjs

A Yank SS 3600 should easily put you in the 12's.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Good mph, what rpm does it shift? Change the shift points to 6100-6300 and it will go faster.

fbody_brian

Right now it's got founders LCAs and koni SAs on all four corners.


That's what I'm leaning towards, but I am a little concerned about throttle response cruising around town. This car is a 90% street car and it's my DD.

Currently the shift points are set at 5750, I think that the shifts are complete at about 5900-6000, but my laptop died so I haven't datalogged it. Was thinking that anything over 6000 would be too much for the stock heads/cam.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

You want to shift where the torque of the current gear * that gear ratio falls below the torque of the next gear at the new shifted rpm * that new gears ratio. What hits the tire is the torque * the transmission gear, and lower gears have higher ratio, so even though you may make 350lb ft at 4000 and 250 at 6000, if 250* old gear is greater than 350* new gear you shifted to early. It's been found, by myself and others, that the stock cam and heads with boltons goes fastest shifted at 6300. It may go faster shifting higher, but stock rod bolts start getting iffy.