I could buy a welder, two cage kits, and learn how to weld on the first cage, then do the second for less than 4k...

 

Ok i was wrong on cage price, 400 for cage plus shipping 2000 installed 2400 out the door. This kit does not require firewall or dash mods to work.

If it did require the extra mods the price would be 3900

 

And furthermore, unless this a class racing car, a simple 6pt roll bar is good to 10.00 or sub 135 so really, no need for a cage.

 

Who builds a 9 or low 10 car without making it nhra safty rated? Why spend all that money to race on test and tune nightz? Make your money back by racing the car thats why you build it. A 6 point is cute in a honda but hes talking about building a bad *** Z28 and a 10 point will allow him to grow in the future and be safe all at the same time. Make the car hook much better and perform better. Or half *** it and get half *** results

 

Yeah, for some reason I thought a 6 point bar was good till 8.99, but a 10 point is needed beyond 9.99. $650 for a helmet is a bit steep. Since he'll have to have a power-adder to get there he'll need an SA rated lid, and you can get a g-force for $225 (he doesn't need a Simpson Super Bandit). He can go g-force for the belts too.

 

When it comes to safty in my mind ill spend more on that equipment than anything else. Can not rebuild anything if you dead or hurt badly. I did not even put neck support, racing suit, and shoes. That **** adds up quick

 

You also grossly overpriced a few of parts, so clothing and accessories will be inconsequential.

$5k for a transmission, $550 for a TA, then 1200 for a stall on top of that??? That is $6,700, you are at least $2,00 over budget just on the tranny.

 

Ya 550 for a tunnel mount torq arm with drive shaft safty loop built in for a s60 or 12 bolt.
5K for a level 7 auto that will hold up to over 600hp for years
Triple disk stall good ones start at 1100 call yank circle d hughs who ever you want to

So over budget i think not, can you buy used and cheaper parts yes, will it last longer than 6months of hard driving likely not. So im listing prices on parts that should if properly installed,tned etc last years. I have built many mid power lt1,l98 even ls1 cars and it always comes down to that part you skimped on costing you in the long run. Going 10`s or even touching 9 in a car is not done easy with shitty parts and last very long. Then his car will sit another 10 years if he doesent crash it first from a part failing.

 

Cause some of us want to drive our car on the street without the very high risk of homogenizing our brains on a 10pt cage halo in any sort of accident.

A six point roll bar is more than enough to cover a high 9 sec car, and still allows for some shred of safety for normal driving.

How fast is your car?

 

You can get a max built performabuilt for 3k and an ATI treemaster for a grand, that combo will run bottom 10s/high 9s all day for years. A UMI tunnel mount TA is 400. Round up 100 bucks and its still $4500...far from 6,700.

I dont mine spending money where you need it - I have probably north of 15,000 in my motor - but to overspend like almost $7,000 on your tranny setup for only bottom 10s/high 9s is silly.

 

My track car runs 9.88@145mph weights 3380 with no driver on 16lbs boost.

My street car runs 10.20@134 weight unknown on 10psi with ac still in car.

 

How many proformabuilt trannys have you had that lasted years? Ill send you whats left of the 3 i have in the back of the shop. I said raptor level 7 not a level 3 tranny the input drum will crack in the first 6 months in a 10 sec car. Thats if 3-4 clutch does not burn u first

 

Ok Puck 400 for the arm and another 100 for the safty loop, or buy it all in one kit for cheaper with shipping. IM not sure why you guys are so focused on nickle and diming what i said for prices and read my entire staments before respondng. What i listed are parts build to handle the forces of a hi power fast violent car. Im not going by what my buddy said or what the internet said in another thread. Im speaking from experiance and hey you might be right saying a level 3 will work, and maybe the OP does not want a 10 point cagr or a cage at all for that matter. Im going to say how i would do it what he chooses is up to him and the results will show. Most people go to shops in hopes they know what they are doing some do most do not. Most on here read a thread and jump into a build without really knowing what there getting into. Knowing what the real use of the car wilk determin how he builds the car. Im under the impressio he is building a race car that will see some street use. That makes it a race car in my opinion.

 

Ive blown 3 up. Didnt even make it a year with them. Still beating on my current one to see how long it will last

 

Thanks for the replies all. So it sounds like the consensus (with the exception of 96TransAmboosted) is that it can be done for under $20k (in addition to what I already have in the car)? ... Being able to do this for under $20k would be awesome. $35k (like 96TransAmboosted's estimate) is, unfortunately, more than I have to spend on my toy this summer.

I vaguely read up about the 5.3L turbo build on the internet. What's the total estimated cost of making that work? ... I'm pretty open to tossing in another motor (including running a carburetor setup), but I won't be doing any intensive electrical wiring by myself (I hate wiring). Would a 5.3L turbo be a reasonable option with labor cost?

EDIT-The car will most likely see substantially more time on the street than on the track (but I do want to comply with NHRA rules, along with having it be reasonably safe on the track). It sounds like a 6 point roll bar probably makes the most sense ?

 

I think it is definitely possible, but you should over budget, because like said before the small things will add up fast. I don't think it will be anywhere near 35k.... but spare yourself some extra dough, or time until you start it.

 

The cheapest way to get it done will for sure be a turbo 5.3. If you don't want to mess with wiring you can buy swap harnesses from site sponsors. You'll also need an LS oil pan, steering rack, intake, k-member, and the front accessories (I got mine through the classifieds here). There are a few other odds and ends as well. Hot Rod did a 5.3 build that produced 600 hp for around $3600 (that was just the engine though). There is a site that sells a kit named after a member here on tech (denmah) that is proven to make about 600 rwhp for around $850 (you'll still need a few things). With a turbo 5.3 I could see you getting it done for under $10k. Factor about $1k for a 4l80e (which can handle north of 700 ft-lbs). This is largely the route I'm hoping to take.

 

I just read the hot rod article. This 5.3L turbo concept sounds insanely awesome! The first thing I thought was that the engine's not going to last. But a $250, who cares lol. Is 600 rwhp enough to get it down into the low 10s/high 9s at full weight?

Also, what's the deal with 4l80e's-- if they're only a $1k, why are all these people suggesting spending $3-5k on a built 4l60e? Could I just bolt up a TH350 or TH400 (w/ adapter)? I should note that my car does not have an electrically controlled trans (it's a 700R4/4L60 that came with it).

 

The 4l60e is not nearly as strong as the 4l80e, which came on the full size trucks. You'd have to do some modifications to your car to run one, but there are very detailed threads on here about doing the swap. A TH400 wouldn't be too expensive (plus a lot easier) if you don't mind losing the overdrive. 600 rwhp should get you close to your goal, definitely deep into the 10's if you have the suspension to hook.

 

Just so you know, FLT in Wooddale,IL can build your 4L60 the same way he builds the 4L60E. The only real difference is in the valve body. Call Chuck and talk to him about it. His 60E's have been behind just about every engine Speed Inc has done for a long time. He did mine as well. He will need yours for a core, as some of the internal parts are no longer available (ie tcc harness, and tv cable). Great guy and he does awesome work. One if the major things you'll want to consider is a 24x swap, or at least a 94/95 PCM, due to the need to burn a new chip every time for tuning. So I would figure out what PCM you're going to use and have the trans built for that as it will save some headaches down the road. You have a decent start in what you already have. Change the fluids, battery, plugs and wires then fire it up you'd be surprised how long an engine that hasn't run can survive. Get yourself some good rubber and get it to the track and see what it does currently. That will tell you where you need to be. If I had the $$ to spend right this instant you can bet my 93 would be in the 9's.

And if it's primarily a street car, do the 6pt. It's good to 10.0 and if you dip to the 9's chances are you won't be booted depending on the track. If you have any questions you can PM me and I can give you some pointers regarding your specific year as I have one as well.