Dragstrip visit after tune
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 372
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From: Kinston North Carolina
Dragstrip visit after tune Went out to my local dragstrip Thursday night to see how the car would act since being tuned. Its a 355 with the 24x setup. Car made 423 rwhp @ 6700 and 368 ft lbs of torque at 5200 rpm. I've got 4.10 gears with a 3500 vigilante converter. First pass was the best and it was pitiful. Car initially hooked enough to get the front tires in the air around 4 inches then spun bad enough to shift to 2nd then back to low. Went a 7.71@91 mph and a 12.01@114.8 mph. Track conditions were horrible but I was really expecting more trap speed than it did. What's average for that power level and full weight car. Only thing done to the suspension is LCA relocation brackets. Tires are m/t drag radials. 275/40-17s with 19 psi
I'm similar power/torque numbers to you, but peaks come in lower:
425 @ 6400, 386 @ 4600.
And definitely full weight...lol! 3800 lbs
Mine usually traps between 117 and 121, depending on the air.
425 @ 6400, 386 @ 4600.
And definitely full weight...lol! 3800 lbs
Mine usually traps between 117 and 121, depending on the air.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 372
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From: Kinston North Carolina
I got to get it on a decent track. Car was spinning bad. I think it was going to third less than 400 ft out and running third all the way out the big end. Still thought my 1/4 trap would have been better.
Despite what people say about the launch not having much affect on trap speed, I have to disagree.
At lower power levels they're correct, but my mph is ALWAYS best on a dead hook.
You'll see an improvement when you hook it up and accelerate for an entire 1/4 mile rather than just 90% of it
At lower power levels they're correct, but my mph is ALWAYS best on a dead hook.
You'll see an improvement when you hook it up and accelerate for an entire 1/4 mile rather than just 90% of it
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 372
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From: Kinston North Carolina
The bottom hole. The way the car hooked then spun seems alot like the lowest holes have got to much bite in the car and those short sidewalls and old factory shocks just cant handle it. Got to get it on a good track before i turn any wrenches though
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Verdad Gallardo However, it's worth experimenting with the settings at marginal tracks, since no matter where you end up, it will then ALWAYS hook up on a good track. I don't know your suspension geometry, but generally speaking, the more antisquat (ie. lower hole for the LCA's), the more demanding it will be on your rear shocks. Without double adjustables, the stiffer the better.
I don't hear very often of F-bodies having this issue; add 10" to your wheelbase and you'd REALLY have your work cut out for you! I've been to events where the Mustang and Camaro guys were happy with the starting line, when I thought it sucked!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Kinston North Carolina
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Kinston North Carolina
You're right about the "good track" being the dominant player.
However, it's worth experimenting with the settings at marginal tracks, since no matter where you end up, it will then ALWAYS hook up on a good track. I don't know your suspension geometry, but generally speaking, the more antisquat (ie. lower hole for the LCA's), the more demanding it will be on your rear shocks. Without double adjustables, the stiffer the better.
I don't hear very often of F-bodies having this issue; add 10" to your wheelbase and you'd REALLY have your work cut out for you! I've been to events where the Mustang and Camaro guys were happy with the starting line, when I thought it sucked!
However, it's worth experimenting with the settings at marginal tracks, since no matter where you end up, it will then ALWAYS hook up on a good track. I don't know your suspension geometry, but generally speaking, the more antisquat (ie. lower hole for the LCA's), the more demanding it will be on your rear shocks. Without double adjustables, the stiffer the better.
I don't hear very often of F-bodies having this issue; add 10" to your wheelbase and you'd REALLY have your work cut out for you! I've been to events where the Mustang and Camaro guys were happy with the starting line, when I thought it sucked!
When the cars on the ground the rear control arms should be level or "slightly" downward to the ground. Also check your pinion angle. I fought that hook and spin for a year before I made these adjustments.