Take it to the track now and get a baseline, then go back after each mod. It's a good way to justify the money you spend, seeing paper results. Biggest cheapest gain is driver mod and shifting higher tho.

 

This but make sure you get the correct density altitude for each run you make so you can see real time improvement from pass to pass, mod to mod. If you run say a 13.6@102 on one day and the DA was 1850 then you go back after putting on full exhaust and run 12.6@112 with the DA at -300, you really didnt pick up a second and 10 mph from exhaust only. There are calculators out there to help you to convert every pass to sea level.

A great app that does all that for you is called RaceIQ. Get real time DA calculations from wherever you are and all the calculators to make your head spin.

 

4.10s in a M6 car makes it a totally different animal. I think mine ended up costing a couple hundred.

 

what's your highway speeds looking like? I like cruisin 6th gear 70@1600 rpm's. I know with 4.10's i'd be losing some of that..

 

I didn't think you needed a tune for a exhaust change, say headers? Although with my tune I did tell PCM, that I had LT's, oh if you do install headers don't do them on your back, would be a lot easier on a ramp, if you have access to one.

 

gears/ sus/ good tire that hook, long tube, exhaust,. Gears tire and sus work is where I would start and if it a auto I would not do a stall until you fig what cam you want to run. also if it is a auto if you do gears you should get a tune done cause your shift points will be off. Hope this help

 

Can anyone recommend where/how to go about getting a tune for specific mods and such? I've seen a few suggestions, was waiting for OP to ask about that, as I think I may need one.