Cam and Head Package for the street
Cam and Head Package for the street Hey guys I was looking at getting the Lloyd Elliot stage one port job and the 224/230 cam which is said to make good power all around and run between 1700-6100RPM. They say this combo is capable of making 360-380 rear wheel horsepower, any one have any experience with this setup or with the bigger cams such as there 226/232 or the 232/240?
I am looking to keep my 96 lt1 m6 very streetable and I love the low end torque and don't want to lose it when choosing a cam to go with the heads. I would think even 350rwhp could get me in the 12's and keep my low end torque. Car is stock right now besides CAI and 2.5 inch stainless exhaust after the converters. It does have a I-pipe muffler but I don't know how good it flows or if it is any good for that matter? Any input would be great!
Of course I would add headers/ air foil / throttle body bypass/ and a cheap tune to go with the cam and head package. I would like to keep the stock bottom end, and it is a 6 speed! You can see my car in my profile.
I am looking to keep my 96 lt1 m6 very streetable and I love the low end torque and don't want to lose it when choosing a cam to go with the heads. I would think even 350rwhp could get me in the 12's and keep my low end torque. Car is stock right now besides CAI and 2.5 inch stainless exhaust after the converters. It does have a I-pipe muffler but I don't know how good it flows or if it is any good for that matter? Any input would be great!
Of course I would add headers/ air foil / throttle body bypass/ and a cheap tune to go with the cam and head package. I would like to keep the stock bottom end, and it is a 6 speed! You can see my car in my profile.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Kinston North Carolina
If all your shooting for is 12s then put the long tube headers on and get some 4.10 gears and a tune and some sticky tires. Car should go 12s all day long with just that if you can yank on some gears pretty good.
I'm thinking as little as 300 rwhp will net you 12s....if you can shift good. You should have 4.10 gears for any cam to really work good, they're just a perfect match for the LT1/T56 combo with or without a cam.
Can't really believe that my 300 crank hp lt1 "if even that" with adding headers, gears, and sticky tires would put me in the 12's. I bet it would maybe hit high 13's with traction and gears. Long tubes might add 15hp. I'm guessing with those mods I might hit a 13.4-13.5 real world, just a guess though. I am a beginner with building engines but smart enough to know that if you want to add some real power you got to flow the heads and have a cam to make those heads work. Have been looking at LE and Advanced Induction.
Fact is I really don't care what it runs in the 1/4. I am just using possible E.T's to get a estimate of power potential with head and cam packages.
I want it to stay streetable and I would like to keep my 342's in the rear for now for gas mileage. I am guessing that with the LE heads and small streetable cam that the car would easily make 350 rwhp and be a hell of a lot more fun for daily driving than my estimated 250rwhp at the moment.
Fact is I really don't care what it runs in the 1/4. I am just using possible E.T's to get a estimate of power potential with head and cam packages.
I want it to stay streetable and I would like to keep my 342's in the rear for now for gas mileage. I am guessing that with the LE heads and small streetable cam that the car would easily make 350 rwhp and be a hell of a lot more fun for daily driving than my estimated 250rwhp at the moment.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
350..
a very mild cam with good heads will get you 350 hp
I had a 214/220 custom cam with mildly ported heads 2.02/1.60 valves that made 350 rwhp/351 rwtq
I would think Lloyds stage 1 package would make that. He would advise HP/TQ with his package
a very mild cam with good heads will get you 350 hp
I had a 214/220 custom cam with mildly ported heads 2.02/1.60 valves that made 350 rwhp/351 rwtq
I would think Lloyds stage 1 package would make that. He would advise HP/TQ with his package
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 442
Likes: 3
From: Raleigh, NC
I made 358rwhp with stock heads that had never been off the motor, and a very modest sized cam.
All it takes is full exhaust/headers and induction, rockers/cam/springs, and a good tune.
If you're going to go through the work and expense to remove the heads go ahead and get some GOOD ones and shoot for 400rwhp.
All it takes is full exhaust/headers and induction, rockers/cam/springs, and a good tune.
If you're going to go through the work and expense to remove the heads go ahead and get some GOOD ones and shoot for 400rwhp.
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If you're concerned about gas milage then stay away from a cam change, I lost 2 mpg, which I could care less about. Changing from 3.42s to 4.10s cost me 1 mpg but really improved the usefulness of the double overdrives in the M6. I currently get 14+ mpg around town down from 17 mpg completely stock. It's good you're doing your research but keep in mind building a fast car doesn't stop at the flywheel.
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Mods in my sig gave me a best of 12.99 last fall. Did a 3.73 gear right before winter and had an unfortunate incident with some ice in January so it got a 9" last weekend. I'll update the time after next weekend. Shooting for 12.5-12.7's NA.
You definitely DON'T need heads and cam to run 12's.
You definitely DON'T need heads and cam to run 12's.
Boltons only I went 12.53 on stock springs and rockers, 12.39 with springs and rockers. I put down maybe 300-315rwhp and have over 100k miles. Heads and cam should give mid 11s. Stock if you can drive you should be high 13s. My friend went 13.8 at 101 in a stock formula with a CAI his first day at the track in his life.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Kinston North Carolina
Can't really believe that my 300 crank hp lt1 "if even that" with adding headers, gears, and sticky tires would put me in the 12's. I bet it would maybe hit high 13's with traction and gears. Long tubes might add 15hp. I'm guessing with those mods I might hit a 13.4-13.5 real world, just a guess though. I am a beginner with building engines but smart enough to know that if you want to add some real power you got to flow the heads and have a cam to make those heads work. Have been looking at LE and Advanced Induction.
Fact is I really don't care what it runs in the 1/4. I am just using possible E.T's to get a estimate of power potential with head and cam packages.
I want it to stay streetable and I would like to keep my 342's in the rear for now for gas mileage. I am guessing that with the LE heads and small streetable cam that the car would easily make 350 rwhp and be a hell of a lot more fun for daily driving than my estimated 250rwhp at the moment.
Fact is I really don't care what it runs in the 1/4. I am just using possible E.T's to get a estimate of power potential with head and cam packages.
I want it to stay streetable and I would like to keep my 342's in the rear for now for gas mileage. I am guessing that with the LE heads and small streetable cam that the car would easily make 350 rwhp and be a hell of a lot more fun for daily driving than my estimated 250rwhp at the moment.
Thanks for all the great info guys! It is nice to know my Lt1 will respond well to all mods! Yeah I'm pretty sure I could pull a 13.8-13.9 as the car stands if I can get it to hook up. I trapped 100mph with my gtec spinning out of first gear a month ago.
I think I will go with some long tubes, y pipe, throttle body bypass, air foil, and a tune and see how I like the gains from that before I jump into porting heads. Springs and rockers could be on the menu too! I would like to keep the car reliable and get some major miles out of this engine, it has 77,000 miles on it right now and has burned no oil since I bought it with 2700 miles on it so far. I drive it to work usually 3 days a week, 24 rural miles one way, makes the commute more interesting with a little power.
I think I will go with some long tubes, y pipe, throttle body bypass, air foil, and a tune and see how I like the gains from that before I jump into porting heads. Springs and rockers could be on the menu too! I would like to keep the car reliable and get some major miles out of this engine, it has 77,000 miles on it right now and has burned no oil since I bought it with 2700 miles on it so far. I drive it to work usually 3 days a week, 24 rural miles one way, makes the commute more interesting with a little power.
Long tubes, a CAI and a tune have the biggest gain in hp for the price on a stock lt1. The vette has the same engine and was rated 30hp higher just due to choking down the Camaro motor with a shitty intake and exhaust to keep Chevys elite car having more hp. Just doing intake and exhaust and doing a tune to get the AFR back right gains 30rwhp. The springs and rockers just let you spin it high enough to use all available power, no real hp gain, but shifting at 6300 vs 5200 lets you use the whole curve. You want the torque at that rpm x trans gear ratio of the next gear to be higher than the torque at that rpm of the current trans gear ratio.
If you put heads and cam in a six speed car with 3.42 gears it will be a dog down low. You will be moving your HP and TQ curve higher up in the RPM range. Gear change is a great low bang for the buck SOTP feel upgrade. A friend of mine has shorty headers, a few bolt-on, 4:10 gears, and sticky tires. He can run 12.8s.
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 442
Likes: 3
From: Raleigh, NC
If you put heads and cam in a six speed car with 3.42 gears it will be a dog down low. You will be moving your HP and TQ curve higher up in the RPM range. Gear change is a great low bang for the buck SOTP feel upgrade. A friend of mine has shorty headers, a few bolt-on, 4:10 gears, and sticky tires. He can run 12.8s.
That said, when I upgrade rears I'm still going to 4.10s. And 4.10s will help a bolt-on car as well. Even someone with a bolt-on car might want to go ahead and get a rear upgrade though because the stock 10-bolt with 4.10s won't tolerate many dragstrip flogs, even at the stock power level.
