I have the trickflows. Its not the side to side thats giving me problems. The pushrod is sitting to far in the guideplate not letting sit in the lifter cup. The plates are pushing the bottom of the pushrods up. so I shouldnt slot the hole that the rocker stud goes in but the part that pushrod goes in right?

 

Man I hate to start this, but.....

All my life I have been setting Chevy hydraulics at the top, you know just where the push rod tightens and then another 1/4 or 1/2 turn. But I always do it with the engine running. Been preaching this for over 50 years.

Word is the newer Chevy's like to be set the other way. My 95 LT1 is set about 1/4 turn from the top, and I can get 7,200 RPM out of it with a Lunati Voodoo cam, LS7 lifters and Manley springs. But I want those of you who are interested to google "travel limited lifters in '87 up chev oem roller blocks." and variations of that and see what you think. There is more than one discussion on it. I'm not so sure I believe it and am afraid to try The new way is to set them at the bottom, like .020 or even .010 from the bottom and.... well just google and see.

Sorry to throw a wrench in this thread. Feel free to move it.

Al 03 Mustang. Ford POS makes it easy, no valve adjustment

 

Most people don't have this problem. I ran into it when I went with a 1.7 rocker. Widening the stud hole on the one side should achieve the same thing.

 

What he said ^^^^

Here's how i remember.

E.very O.liver I.s C.ool
Which means= E.xhaust O.pening I.ntake C.losing

When exhaust starts to open,adjust intake
When in take is closing,adjust exhaust

One full turn (from zero lash) is approximately .040 of lifter preload.
This works on any pair of valves for the cylinder your working on. Or any 4 stroke for that matter.
Hope this helps

 

Since you haven't built anything on your own, care to relinquish your source for this mastery of valve adjustment wizardry?

Sure soon as u explain why a lifter cant bleed down with the engine on?
The lifters will bleed down some when the engine is off

And yes i have built my own engines and they all ran. BTW i thought i read u trashed your new cam recently? True?

 

This might be the first time I ever saw anyone suggest low preload would cause hydraulics to need repeated resetting.

Are u saying then that your vlv train does not wear at all? Then why not just use your "experience" to set your preload even less??


http://www.tuning.mbs.id.au/Engine/hyd_lifter.htm

 

Take a Comp 850 lifter, put it in a '86 up including the LT1 and preload is say .030" to.040" 1/2-3/4 turn.
Throw it in the LS and the preload is 070"-.090"
Throw it in a Harley and the preload is .100"-.120"
For the same lifter.

 

What? Just a source is all I want. What literature do you reference for all these solid points you are making?
Absolutely true. I guess it's because the solid lifters I was running bled down... Do you have any advice?

I need to take the calipers to my rollers and see how worn down they have become. I'm sure they were part of the culprit!

 

Thankfully, tech is still teh asinine tech.

Some things never change.

 

And the minimal wear of valvetrain components will be adjusted for by the lifter, which is the whole point of hydraulic lifters. They adjust themselves so you don't have to do it over and over.

That's right, I fed the troll.

 

Yes Spartan, compensating for wear of the vlv train is one of the functions of the hyd lifter. That and temperature changes affecting the material dimensions. So u agree with me. Or is there something else u are trying to say?

 

Big Al, those that know what they are doing have been adj the lifters to near bottom out since the 90s. Its got to due with the aerated oil that allows the lifter to "shorten". By limiting the amount of lifter collapse it prevents that "shortening" for the most part. And thats what T's me off so much when i read this 1/4 turn BS. Like someone should ever let the engine get to vlv float in the first place.
Now some lifters do have holes/passages that may become blocked if adj to "deep". U have to know what your lifter can use for max preload.

Thx for sharing Al.

 

What? Just a source is all I want. What literature do you reference for all these solid points you are making?

One of the SA Design books and i can tell u need to read them all. Have fun.


Absolutely true. I guess it's because the solid lifters I was running bled down... Do you have any advice?

Find a new hobby. Try golfing. U'll get to play with little ***** all day - that should keep u happy.

 

Yea I have the 1.7's too. Did you widen your guideplates as well? What kind of drill bit did you use? I gave it a try today but the guide plate killed my bit ,literally. I was thinking maybe a metal rasp could do the trick.

 

I am just looking for the book that explains hydraulic lifters compensating for valvetrain wear and how lifters can generate aerated oil is all. Can you tell me which book out of that series?

Thanks

Also, what caused my cam and lifters problem? I am stumped. Could it to be because of lifter bleed down and aerated oil?

 

 

They are hardened. I used a 3" cut off wheel to deepen the slot for the push rod like .060". Only the bottom, not the sides.

 

i had to do this also. I even made a thread on here and was pretty much told to f#$% off. I bought the iskys but they didnt help.

 

I am just looking for the book that explains hydraulic lifters compensating for valvetrain wear and how lifters can generate aerated oil is all. Can you tell me which book out of that series?

Why cant u tell why a hyd lifter cant bleed down with engine on.

Also, what caused my cam and lifters problem? I am stumped. Could it to be because of lifter bleed down and aerated oil?

U

 

Way back when I ran a solid lifter cam with hydraulics in AHRA stock classes. I just set them like solids. .022 and .024, never had a problem. That was back when solids and hydraulics ran in different classes. Yep, I'm that old

Al 86 IROC, BBC, Ford Toploader, 9"