350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

I have the K&N HP version, the most expensive one and its the extra long one for more filtration material. I have about 200 miles on it and the oil now. I probably wont run the oil and filter much past 4000 miles since I drive the car hard lol. If it was in my grocery getter v6 park avenue I might run it for 7-8 thousand miles.

Another thing about the LT1 is the oil filters don't need the anti drain back valves because the oil filter is completely vertical when on the engine. The longer version of the filter has the anti drain because it is meant for trucks. Oil pressure is good in my car with the Valvoline syn-high mileage and the K&N. If the engine grenades its a good excuse to rebuilt the motor with an extra 150 ponies!

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Royal purple is too thin in my opinion for a dd, it's fine for a dedicated race car where every last hp counts, but just from my own experience where I got a knock at 130k miles after running RP for 30k and alot of other opinions from very experienced engine builders, I really don't like royal purple. And it's just so ******* expensive.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Really. Where did you hear about K&N being made by Fram? This is disappointing. NEVER use anything from Fram.

Folks, most upper shelf oils will do you just fine. I exclusively run German Castrol 0W-30 in everything and a Mobil1 Extended filter or better (better would be FleetGuard). Always use a larger filter if you can.

You can't go wrong with a Wix/CarQuest or Hastings filter. Purolator quality and build varies from great to junk so I wouldn't trust it. Royal Purple filters aren't any better than a M1 filter and certainly not worth the ridiculous money they get for it, just like their oils. Very good stuff but no better than other brands at half the cost.

Tbird232ci

iTrader: (4)

I use Mobil 1 High Mileage. I don't have the patience to rear up on the analysis, but I watched a video where Ed Peters, a Chrysler failure analysis engineer guy thing, stated that the high mileage oil had the recommended amount of ZDDP additives in it. He recommended it for the SRT4 and other turbo cars which usually cook oils worse than out 350's ever would.

In all reality, how many people have had a failure from junk oil? Use quality oil and change it when it needs to be, and there really shouldn't be any issues.

Purple Poncho

iTrader: (1)

IIRC I read it on Bobtheoilguy forum a few months back.

robmnrd

Filter: Motorcraft FL-1A
Oil: Valvoline High Mileage

Weight is dependent upon the time of year. During the ~5 hottest months I run 10w-30, the other ~7 I run 5W-30.

With 193000 miles I still get hot idle of 20, cruise between 40-50, and WOT will almost peg 80.

F0x Slaughter

I run Mobile 1 with a Napa Gold Filter (its a Wix rebadged) and I talk to the guys are get a case for a little cheaper. They are just white, they sell them to dealerships and stuff so you get them cheaper than individual in a box and all fancy looking.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

this^

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Wife's car get dealer cheap bulk oil changes at the change oil light and has 215k on it.
2003 Impala 3.4l. Granted not an LT1 but does make the point about not needing anything fancy oil wise.

Crimsonnaire

iTrader: (1)

I was just trying to dig up information about how the different series of Amsoil compare to other synthetics. I came across many charts, but these are the two I found confusing. Is the big difference in wear protection difference of Mobile 1 EP in these two charts the result of the difference in temperature alone?





I understand that the Signature Series of top of the line Amsoil, but how does the XL series compare to Mobile 1 EP and Royal Purple in normal driving condition?

Any clarification is greatly appreciated.

ChevyOwner

Try 51794.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

I looked several sites on oil testing and it is really confusing, example one site has Royal Purple literally at the bottom of the list in wear protection and another shows it at the top of the list, so who knows.

WS Sick

I'm surprised others have not mentioned it.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ Go here and you will change your mind about your oil.

fleetmgr

Bobistheoilguy has as much misinformation on it as any other web site, which is fine if you're educated enough to be able to separate the wheat from the chaff. Unfortunately, not 1 in 10,000 have the requisite education to do that.

The problem is that there is NO SCHOOLING available outside of working for an oil company to get the education required. I know that not a single one of the auto trade schools spend even 10 minutes on the properties of lubricants and their proper applications.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The 4 ball wear tests and such are bull when it comes to engine oil testing BLEACH does very well in those sort of tests.

fleetmgr

No, it doesn't. It does very well in tests measuring shear strength (it has phenomenal shear strength), but that's all.

4 ball wear tests simulate real world environments in a lab controlled scenario, not destruction testing like the other link showed. Destruction testing isn't particularly useful, and doesn't tell you much, unless that's your only goal.

WS Sick

You wouldn't by chance be an Amsoil distributor?

fleetmgr

Nope, never used any either. I do have > 200 hours of classroom time in continuing ed. on principles of lubrication, however. And from what I know about Amsoil's clone of Transynd transmission fluid (think big Allison tranny), I won't.

WS Sick

Ok, just making sure you weren't a brainwashed one....lol
I agree that on all sites you have to do your research and sift out the baloney. I am a firm believer in oil analysis and filter analysis.

fleetmgr

Good on ya! Science uber alles!