What direction should I take?
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Teching In
Joined: Feb 2014
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What direction should I take? So I bought my first camaro about 7 months ago and I love it. It's a 1995 z28 a4 with 153xxx miles on it. I have a decent amount of cash in hand and plan on first going for some c6 z06 18x9.5 all the way around with most likely 275/35/18 in the back and 255/35/18 in the front. After that getting koni shocks and about a inch drop.
But my real question is, What should I do to get around 300-315 to the rear wheels? Using it as a DD and I'd like to e able to do this as cheap as possible but understand this is gonna some cash.
Any input is helpful and really appreciated
Will post pics this weekend of the car when I get the chance.
But my real question is, What should I do to get around 300-315 to the rear wheels? Using it as a DD and I'd like to e able to do this as cheap as possible but understand this is gonna some cash.
Any input is helpful and really appreciated
Will post pics this weekend of the car when I get the chance.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,610
Likes: 4
From: Maricopa, AZ
If you plan on going that wide, get wider wheels now. 315's on 9.5" wide wheels are too much. Especially on low profiles.
Also be aware that 315's are not necessary for drag racing. And for cornering 255's up front and 315's out back usually leads to push under steer.
You will have to do the BFH mod to the inner rear wheel wells and roll the rear lip on the quarter panels to get the tires not to rub.
Don't forget the LCA relocation brackets and the adjustable panhard bar too.
Also be aware that 315's are not necessary for drag racing. And for cornering 255's up front and 315's out back usually leads to push under steer.
You will have to do the BFH mod to the inner rear wheel wells and roll the rear lip on the quarter panels to get the tires not to rub.
Don't forget the LCA relocation brackets and the adjustable panhard bar too.
Last edited by hrcslam; May 9, 2014 at 01:49 AM.
I think by 315 he means hp not wide tires.
Long tube headers, 1.6 or 1.7 full roller NSA rockers, Howard's or Alex's valvesprings ($100) or duals ($200-300) if you plan to add a cam at some point, CAI or ls1 lid, a good flowing catback like magnaflow or hooker, and a mail order tune would get you 300-315 rwhp if you were an m6, it's a little less with the drivetrain loss of an auto being 18% vs a manuals 13%. If you want 300 rwhp in an auto you'll probably need at least a hotcam.
Long tube headers, 1.6 or 1.7 full roller NSA rockers, Howard's or Alex's valvesprings ($100) or duals ($200-300) if you plan to add a cam at some point, CAI or ls1 lid, a good flowing catback like magnaflow or hooker, and a mail order tune would get you 300-315 rwhp if you were an m6, it's a little less with the drivetrain loss of an auto being 18% vs a manuals 13%. If you want 300 rwhp in an auto you'll probably need at least a hotcam.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,610
Likes: 4
From: Maricopa, AZ
I think by 315 he means hp not wide tires.
Long tube headers, 1.6 or 1.7 full roller NSA rockers, Howard's or Alex's valvesprings ($100) or duals ($200-300) if you plan to add a cam at some point, CAI or ls1 lid, a good flowing catback like magnaflow or hooker, and a mail order tune would get you 300-315 rwhp if you were an m6, it's a little less with the drivetrain loss of an auto being 18% vs a manuals 13%. If you want 300 rwhp in an auto you'll probably need at least a hotcam.
Long tube headers, 1.6 or 1.7 full roller NSA rockers, Howard's or Alex's valvesprings ($100) or duals ($200-300) if you plan to add a cam at some point, CAI or ls1 lid, a good flowing catback like magnaflow or hooker, and a mail order tune would get you 300-315 rwhp if you were an m6, it's a little less with the drivetrain loss of an auto being 18% vs a manuals 13%. If you want 300 rwhp in an auto you'll probably need at least a hotcam.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
use blue loc-tite on rotor screws when putting new rotor on
if you don't know the mileage of the existing Opti and if it is not "clean" in appearance from outside, it would be a good idea to replace the cap & rotor with a MSD kit. Opti is just like any other distributor with a cap/rotor, they are wear items
use blue loc-tite on rotor screws when putting new rotor on
use blue loc-tite on rotor screws when putting new rotor on
I bought my car with 131K miles on it. It had the opti replaced as a "precaution". The current one has 72K miles on it and no issues. Just take care of the car as you would any other and you shouldn't have many problems.
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