Rocket97

iTrader: (1)

So I have a relocated battery in the hatch of my 97 Z/28 for about 3 years. I've had some slow crank issues over the last year. It always starts but slow cranks after it gets hot. Seeing how its a common thing with solenoids and headers, I put on a new starter (msd aps starter) in when I put my tubular k member in. Didn't change much. I had my optima tested and it was weak, so I replaced it. I've checked voltage drops across my battery cable (2ga Taylor cable) going up front, and it drops 1.2v. I have a new cable but ran across a remote starter solenoid kit @ Mad Electrical. It seems to be mostly for older cars. I was curious if its something worth trying so I don't have 12ft of live cable running underneath my car and possibly sucking the life out of my battery? Would it get my car cranking faster? Or should I be looking into other things? Thanks for the input!!

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

I would bump it to 0 gauge, 2 is a small. Make sure your ground from battery to chassis and engine to chassis is large/well connected.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

There's really no need to install one of those to deter voltage draw, the starter draws nothing when the ignition is not in START to energize the starter solenoid. It will do absolutely nothing to reduce voltage drop, it's basically just a relay. Like said above, you need a larger battery cable to the starter to reduce resistance (thus less voltage drop).

Rocket97

iTrader: (1)

All grounds have been double and triple checked. I have 1/0 cable waiting to be put in, just wanted to know if the solenoid idea would help at all before I start carving up the new cable. I'm going to be cutting it close on length so I need to plan it out before digging in

Rocket97

iTrader: (1)

I would not be installing the remote solenoid for the volage drop issue. That's what the new cable is for. Its to fix the hot start issues I'm having. By not having a solenoid cooking from header heat it should put proper voltage to the windings and get rid of a slow hot start. That's the theory in my head anyway... incorrect?

cardo0

Most every chevy driver thinks he can fix his hot soak problem by a remote solenoid like ford uses - not the same thing. Regardless how many remote solenoids u install the GM starter still has to use the starter mounted solenoid to kick out the pinion gear. U cant relocate the starter mounted solenoid! That starter mounted solenoid is the one that sees all the heat from the exh manifolds/headers. Ford instead uses permanent magnets in the starter motor such that when the solenoid picks up the motor windings they themselves are energized and kick out the pinion gear/operating lever - not so for GM starters.
GM owners will be in denial over that fact and take it to the grave unless they ever learn to understand electricity and solenoids. Summit and Jegs will sell u remote solenoids all day long also.

The LT1 has darn good starter - much better than the old GEN I boat anchors. Ive never had any heat soak problem with mine.

If u are having heat soak problems Rocket then your money is better spent on a small heat shield for your solenoid. And maybe the contactor inside the starter is getting arc'd up and u need a new solenoid. When i first got my drivers license and first chevy i learned how to just pop the solenoid cover and flip the contactor disk inside.
Make sure the heat shield has at least a tiny air gap from both the solenoid metal and any exh manifolding.
I dont like the blanket type "wrap" as once they heat up they hold the heat in the starter.

Also very important to use clean connections for both batt positive and ground. Make sure your starter ground strap is connected to block or chassis and the block is connected to chassis with good clean ground. Heck even clean your batt terminals.


Hope this helps,
cardo

Rocket97

iTrader: (1)

Cardo,
I appreciate the the input. Your right though... I believe I can fix the pesky hot start issues. I could probably go as far as to mess with my timing a bit and make it "easier" to start by that method. It drives me crazy and is honestly a bit embarrassing to have this issue. I will happily try the shield in hopes of fixing this.... solenoid too. They are inexpensive routes that are totally worth a try even though I have my doubts. A local speed shop that I buy parts from seems to think the bushings in the armature of the starter are swelling making it difficult to get the armature to push through and I should clearance them a couple thousandths. He is super knowledgeable and likes to try free methods first... worth trying?