LT1 *Bent Crank Snout*
#22
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Thanks eric. long time no talk man. It sucks I mean im still in a great deal even if I need to buy a 300$ motor and put it in. Was just hoping to get lucky
#23
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An idea this may be wrong.
Do you know of the hub was pulled?
When I got my last LT1, people said the the balancer was bad as it wobbled. Just for kicks I checked the bolt for the hub. It was too long, and the hub was not seated correctly but the balancer was fine.
Do you know of the hub was pulled?
When I got my last LT1, people said the the balancer was bad as it wobbled. Just for kicks I checked the bolt for the hub. It was too long, and the hub was not seated correctly but the balancer was fine.
#24
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I'm having trouble installing my crank hub right now. I'm putting a new powerbond hub on my new forged Lunati crank, and after it got a short way on the crank it wouldn't move any further. I even snapped an ARP stud that I was using to pull it on. I was able to wiggle the hub off by hand and discovered it wasn't going on straight and had distorted the inside of the hub. I wonder if the OP's hub could have been somewhat crooked when it was installed.
That being said, any suggestions on how to make sure it goes on straight? I ordered some B7 threaded rod for my second attempt.
That being said, any suggestions on how to make sure it goes on straight? I ordered some B7 threaded rod for my second attempt.
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Thats a possibility. He seemed like a real weiner when it came to mechanics.
I am not sure man i have been out of LT1s for a coupke years and getting back into it and remember all the littletips and tricks and **** to do things
I am not sure man i have been out of LT1s for a coupke years and getting back into it and remember all the littletips and tricks and **** to do things
#26
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Using the homemade versions of a "install" tool....suggest you get some grade 8 washers and a bearing to sandwich between them and a grade 8 nut to install it. Ideally using the Kent Moore tool if you can find one. They are high $ but very "plug & play" to install/remove hub
#27
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I'm having trouble installing my crank hub right now. I'm putting a new powerbond hub on my new forged Lunati crank, and after it got a short way on the crank it wouldn't move any further. I even snapped an ARP stud that I was using to pull it on. I was able to wiggle the hub off by hand and discovered it wasn't going on straight and had distorted the inside of the hub. I wonder if the OP's hub could have been somewhat crooked when it was installed.
That being said, any suggestions on how to make sure it goes on straight? I ordered some B7 threaded rod for my second attempt.
That being said, any suggestions on how to make sure it goes on straight? I ordered some B7 threaded rod for my second attempt.
#28
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"play" in the crank....there should not be any.
If your "play" is front/back that would point to bad thrust bearing.
If side to side...front bearing is beyond gone....or crank is broken
FWIW I have seen broken crank with car still running, no noise, but damper was way wobble though.
Do you have a cast Eagle crank?
If your "play" is front/back that would point to bad thrust bearing.
If side to side...front bearing is beyond gone....or crank is broken
FWIW I have seen broken crank with car still running, no noise, but damper was way wobble though.
Do you have a cast Eagle crank?
#29
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you dodged a bullet by trying to draw in the hub using the crank bolt...assuming you have not stripped/distorted the threads already.
Using the homemade versions of a "install" tool....suggest you get some grade 8 washers and a bearing to sandwich between them and a grade 8 nut to install it. Ideally using the Kent Moore tool if you can find one. They are high $ but very "plug & play" to install/remove hub
Using the homemade versions of a "install" tool....suggest you get some grade 8 washers and a bearing to sandwich between them and a grade 8 nut to install it. Ideally using the Kent Moore tool if you can find one. They are high $ but very "plug & play" to install/remove hub
I am planning to heat the hub to a few hundred degrees in the oven for the next attempt, along with 7/16-20 threaded rod. I picked up an SBC balancer install tool from Pep Boys to use the thrust bearing to minimize friction. Hoping to avoid getting the Kent Moore tool since I don't plan to do this very often.
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THe best way to explain the *Play* is its like a damn orbital sander haha. but no worries im doing a swap anyway so ill find out later what happened...
I have snapped an eagle 4340 crank behind the #1 main journal which is the reason I got out of LT1s because at the time i couldnt afford to rebuild my 383 a 3rd time so i sold it all and got a daily.
I have snapped an eagle 4340 crank behind the #1 main journal which is the reason I got out of LT1s because at the time i couldnt afford to rebuild my 383 a 3rd time so i sold it all and got a daily.
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I am planning to heat the hub to a few hundred degrees in the oven for the next attempt, along with 7/16-20 threaded rod. I picked up an SBC balancer install tool from Pep Boys to use the thrust bearing to minimize friction. Hoping to avoid getting the Kent Moore tool since I don't plan to do this very often.
#33
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My bad, they are the same thing. I was under the impression that a balancer aided in balancing the engine rotating mass and a damper was neutrally balanced. As I found out there are several other names as well that all seem to mean the same part. Thanks for the correction
#35
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There's already plenty of experience and good advice in this thread so I have nothing to add but:
I'll say that virtually every time I hear of a crankshaft problem, it's ALWAYS an Eagle crank. For the few dollars more that a better crank costs, why would anybody use Eagle?
I'll say that virtually every time I hear of a crankshaft problem, it's ALWAYS an Eagle crank. For the few dollars more that a better crank costs, why would anybody use Eagle?
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There's already plenty of experience and good advice in this thread so I have nothing to add but:
I'll say that virtually every time I hear of a crankshaft problem, it's ALWAYS an Eagle crank. For the few dollars more that a better crank costs, why would anybody use Eagle?
I'll say that virtually every time I hear of a crankshaft problem, it's ALWAYS an Eagle crank. For the few dollars more that a better crank costs, why would anybody use Eagle?
I will keep this short.... my *Engine Builder* put it together. it was when i was first getting into f-bodys and didnt really know a whole lot. I knew how to put a motor together I helped my old man on several motors but this was my first motor and he recommended it.... I cannot exactly blame eagle though... for the simple fact that after busting a piston skirt, while doing a trans build I took the engine back and asked him to replace the piston..... He did... except on a .030 over motor he replaced it with a stock piston. I will leave it at that.
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i put about 500 miles on it with a .030 under piston and never felt anything.... went to the track and ran about 6 passes and on the way home rolled into it with an evo and when I let off I noticed all kinds of ruckus and saw oil spitting on the front....
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I tell ya finding a builder that I don't have to travel hundreds of miles to get to has been impossible. Even when everyone I can find says " This is your guy he can build it for you, he is the best around, he wont steer you wrong." I still manage to walk out with a dick in my *** from everyone of them. In fact that's gonna be my new quote. "I must be gay because every time I walk out of a machine shop I have a dick in my ***." If I had the space and I had the money and I had the time to learn to use all the **** I would own the equipment and do it my self so I can only be made at my self. I actually have a garden of engine blocks started. One of them is mine and the next is headed this way from my buddies ford. If I win the Lotto I will put my current one out to pasture as well.