Tranny options
We have this to offer for the super high powered 4L6X series user https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...6897974&type=1 as I will concur with RPM that far more is involved in making any trans handle power than just parts and even a proper assembly and more than can be found in a packaged shift kit to go with them. Take moment and look over the unit in the link it is our top of the line 4L6x SERIES it is called the Black edition and is a work with SONNAX we introduced a while back. The Black Edition runs 4800 shipped with a 1 year warranty or two year is you purchase an FTI converter for it through us. We also offer other levels you can find at performabuilt.com the levels 3-2-1
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Last edited by performabuilt; Jul 12, 2014 at 01:50 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Maricopa, AZ
The GM ones are PM. GM made the part cheaper but still strong, people blindly jumped on the bandwagon believing they "needed" to upgrade a part that doesn't break.
When I googled I actually found that not only are the 5 gears PM but also the carrier where the 4-pinion carrier was nodular.
It is just cheaper they had to add the 5th gear just to get back the strength lost with cheaper manufacturing and might have ended up with a small net gain in strength but again the 4pinion failures are really really rare. Not really a legitimate concern. Now these days with trannies behind LT1s being 20years old with high mileage and maybe subject to debris from other parts failing it might make sense to go ahead and put a new planetary setup in and a GM 5-pinion is fine.
When I googled I actually found that not only are the 5 gears PM but also the carrier where the 4-pinion carrier was nodular.
It is just cheaper they had to add the 5th gear just to get back the strength lost with cheaper manufacturing and might have ended up with a small net gain in strength but again the 4pinion failures are really really rare. Not really a legitimate concern. Now these days with trannies behind LT1s being 20years old with high mileage and maybe subject to debris from other parts failing it might make sense to go ahead and put a new planetary setup in and a GM 5-pinion is fine.
We have this to offer for the super high powered 4L6X series user https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...6897974&type=1 as I will concur with RPM that far more is involved in making any trans handle power than just parts and even a proper assembly and more than can be found in a packaged shift kit to go with them. Take moment and look over the unit in the link it is our top of the line 4L6x SERIES it is called the Black edition and is a work with SONNAX we introduced a while back. The Black Edition runs 4800 shipped with a 1 year warranty or two year is you purchase an FTI converter for it through us. We also offer other levels you can find at performabuilt.com the levels 3-2-1
Its a turbo car, so numerically low rear end gear sets and heavy load on the motor are good.
At 750whp (assuming your engine build does well) a 60e will need to be built with top of the line parts and by a good builder, whereas you could prob get a shift kit'd 80e from a junkyard to live awhile behind that. But, I am biased, and apparently lose 90whp and 2 tenths with my truck trans.
At 750whp (assuming your engine build does well) a 60e will need to be built with top of the line parts and by a good builder, whereas you could prob get a shift kit'd 80e from a junkyard to live awhile behind that. But, I am biased, and apparently lose 90whp and 2 tenths with my truck trans.
I'm not saying the 60e is as strong as the 80e. It certainly is not, but most of us don't need the strength of the 80e and therefore the cost or hassle. A properly build 4L60e (which really doesn't take much) can handle the duty of 90% of the cars here easily, maybe even more.
So building a 60E is the same as getting a junkyard 80E and adding a shiftkit and billet converter is almost equal in price?
Its a turbo car, so numerically low rear end gear sets and heavy load on the motor are good.
At 750whp (assuming your engine build does well) a 60e will need to be built with top of the line parts and by a good builder, whereas you could prob get a shift kit'd 80e from a junkyard to live awhile behind that. But, I am biased, and apparently lose 90whp and 2 tenths with my truck trans.
At 750whp (assuming your engine build does well) a 60e will need to be built with top of the line parts and by a good builder, whereas you could prob get a shift kit'd 80e from a junkyard to live awhile behind that. But, I am biased, and apparently lose 90whp and 2 tenths with my truck trans.
I hope my build does go well, and losing 90whp and 2 tenths is not helping my car at all and making me lean towards a 60E. Especially assuming if I can hit those numbers.....
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I agree to an extent about the glass 60e but if the can hold up to multiple 8 - 9sec passes that pretty impressive. And it sucks when I see a decent amount of 80e thats 11 - 12 sec cars get completely destroyed too.
Sorry for being picky
There is no clear cut answer here.
The 60e crowd will say that properly built they will last forever and no problem with high horsepower, but, you end up with a large price tag and a trans with almost 100% aftermarket stuff in it. The 60e crowd will also claim that the 80e eats some crazy amount of hp and will cost you a couple of tenths. 80e crowd will say that you can get a nice trans for much less and if you can wire/BFH mod, its an easy swap.
I know you can get a 60e to hold the power, and I will accept that an 80e does eat some power, however, finding the perfect builder for a 60e seemed to be difficult and the price tag just killed it for me. I did not want to pay close to 5k for a trans that may or may not work after one hard launch. My entry level 80e is rated at 750hp and is the lowest build offered for them. It was ~$2500 when I got it and I picked up a torque converter for a little under a grand.
All comes down to how much you trust 60e stuff and what not. I looked at it like this, fast race cars run TH400s, and not one runs a 60e. There is a reason for that. Since the 80e is basically a TH400 with OD, I felt confident in making that decision.
The 60e crowd will say that properly built they will last forever and no problem with high horsepower, but, you end up with a large price tag and a trans with almost 100% aftermarket stuff in it. The 60e crowd will also claim that the 80e eats some crazy amount of hp and will cost you a couple of tenths. 80e crowd will say that you can get a nice trans for much less and if you can wire/BFH mod, its an easy swap.
I know you can get a 60e to hold the power, and I will accept that an 80e does eat some power, however, finding the perfect builder for a 60e seemed to be difficult and the price tag just killed it for me. I did not want to pay close to 5k for a trans that may or may not work after one hard launch. My entry level 80e is rated at 750hp and is the lowest build offered for them. It was ~$2500 when I got it and I picked up a torque converter for a little under a grand.
All comes down to how much you trust 60e stuff and what not. I looked at it like this, fast race cars run TH400s, and not one runs a 60e. There is a reason for that. Since the 80e is basically a TH400 with OD, I felt confident in making that decision.
There is no clear cut answer here.
The 60e crowd will say that properly built they will last forever and no problem with high horsepower, but, you end up with a large price tag and a trans with almost 100% aftermarket stuff in it. The 60e crowd will also claim that the 80e eats some crazy amount of hp and will cost you a couple of tenths. 80e crowd will say that you can get a nice trans for much less and if you can wire/BFH mod, its an easy swap.
I know you can get a 60e to hold the power, and I will accept that an 80e does eat some power, however, finding the perfect builder for a 60e seemed to be difficult and the price tag just killed it for me. I did not want to pay close to 5k for a trans that may or may not work after one hard launch. My entry level 80e is rated at 750hp and is the lowest build offered for them. It was ~$2500 when I got it and I picked up a torque converter for a little under a grand.
All comes down to how much you trust 60e stuff and what not. I looked at it like this, fast race cars run TH400s, and not one runs a 60e. There is a reason for that. Since the 80e is basically a TH400 with OD, I felt confident in making that decision.
The 60e crowd will say that properly built they will last forever and no problem with high horsepower, but, you end up with a large price tag and a trans with almost 100% aftermarket stuff in it. The 60e crowd will also claim that the 80e eats some crazy amount of hp and will cost you a couple of tenths. 80e crowd will say that you can get a nice trans for much less and if you can wire/BFH mod, its an easy swap.
I know you can get a 60e to hold the power, and I will accept that an 80e does eat some power, however, finding the perfect builder for a 60e seemed to be difficult and the price tag just killed it for me. I did not want to pay close to 5k for a trans that may or may not work after one hard launch. My entry level 80e is rated at 750hp and is the lowest build offered for them. It was ~$2500 when I got it and I picked up a torque converter for a little under a grand.
All comes down to how much you trust 60e stuff and what not. I looked at it like this, fast race cars run TH400s, and not one runs a 60e. There is a reason for that. Since the 80e is basically a TH400 with OD, I felt confident in making that decision.
What is all needed for a T56/80E swap besides PCM tune? I have an idea on other parts that are needed, just wanted to see besides the tranny what additional parts were needed? Who built your trans? (So I can get and idea of what parts were changed from the stock 80E)
I always tend to take your advice.
What is all needed for a T56/80E swap besides PCM tune? I have an idea on other parts that are needed, just wanted to see besides the tranny what additional parts were needed? Who built your trans? (So I can get and idea of what parts were changed from the stock 80E)
What is all needed for a T56/80E swap besides PCM tune? I have an idea on other parts that are needed, just wanted to see besides the tranny what additional parts were needed? Who built your trans? (So I can get and idea of what parts were changed from the stock 80E)
You would need a flexplate, torque converter, transmission, new 80e pigtail for harness, a 80e VSS pigtail, and a new X member with trans mount (unless you want to make your M6 one work) You will need a new yoke, but with a conversion U joint, the stock DS will work. Since you will be running a LT1 PCM, you will need to wire in a relay to switch logic on the harness side for the 80e to work. Obviously program the PCM for automatic vs T56. (you use a 60e tune)
I have a Jake's 80e, call him up, he sells rebuild kits if you can prove you have half a brain
And be aware it is NOT a bolt up and go mod. You will need to cut the ears off the trans case and either cut a hole in trans tunnel or beat a piece in to allow for the electrical connection to clear. Not the end of the world at all, but just to be clear.
So basically $1k besides the cost of Trans? Which 80E is better? Early or late model?
Im so eager to drive
but I want things to be perfect for my fitting. Because I was suppose to be done 6 months ago and it has really turned in timely project and I mine as well do it to the max since Im still in pieces .
Im so eager to drive
but I want things to be perfect for my fitting. Because I was suppose to be done 6 months ago and it has really turned in timely project and I mine as well do it to the max since Im still in pieces . !["MAC"'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%237f3b59' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
Ive had to rebuild my 60E 3 times. You need a bigger trans cooler and even when built the max is like 550 to 600bhp.
The 80E will absolutely hold more power it does eat more power as well and you will lose some ET time.
The reason is because its heavier, so you are adding weight also bc its bigger it will eat more power. So unless you are making a **** load of power stick to a well built 60e. RPM transmissions is a good outlet.
Hope this helps, Mike Morris will know more
The 80E will absolutely hold more power it does eat more power as well and you will lose some ET time.
The reason is because its heavier, so you are adding weight also bc its bigger it will eat more power. So unless you are making a **** load of power stick to a well built 60e. RPM transmissions is a good outlet.
Hope this helps, Mike Morris will know more
Ive had to rebuild my 60E 3 times. You need a bigger trans cooler and even when built the max is like 550 to 600bhp.
The 80E will absolutely hold more power it does eat more power as well and you will lose some ET time.
The reason is because its heavier, so you are adding weight also bc its bigger it will eat more power. So unless you are making a **** load of power stick to a well built 60E. RPM transmissions is a good outlet.
The 80E will absolutely hold more power it does eat more power as well and you will lose some ET time.
The reason is because its heavier, so you are adding weight also bc its bigger it will eat more power. So unless you are making a **** load of power stick to a well built 60E. RPM transmissions is a good outlet.
Lol my name is chris but yw. Its really simple honestly. If you EVER plan on going over 550 bhp get a 80E if you want less power and are happy with less than 550bhp then stick to the 60E.
Ive had to rebuild my 60E 3 times. You need a bigger trans cooler and even when built the max is like 550 to 600bhp.
The 80E will absolutely hold more power it does eat more power as well and you will lose some ET time.
The reason is because its heavier, so you are adding weight also bc its bigger it will eat more power. So unless you are making a **** load of power stick to a well built 60e. RPM transmissions is a good outlet.
Hope this helps, Mike Morris will know more
The 80E will absolutely hold more power it does eat more power as well and you will lose some ET time.
The reason is because its heavier, so you are adding weight also bc its bigger it will eat more power. So unless you are making a **** load of power stick to a well built 60e. RPM transmissions is a good outlet.
Hope this helps, Mike Morris will know more
Bad tuner advice, Mike Morris corrected that when it broke down the second time which was over 2 years later. Then the yoke broke the next day then i parked it for a month until my new trans cooler came in. Now the engine is fudge so its getting fixed atm.
So I've been through a few 4L60E's...
Actually, the same one multiple times. LOL It was supposedly "built" when I got it... NOPE. I had it rebuilt twice more, never lasted a year behind my 383. I finally got tired of ******* with it, and brought it to the guy who used to be the brains behind FLT, Vince. He works for a different trans shop now, and re-built my 4L60E the CORRECT way. He has a proprietary design for the forward piston, and has a specific way he sets the trans up. With all parts in total, which included some case repair (stripped bolt holes) and everything from the electrical harness to the vent tube replaced, I paid 1800 bucks. Worth it? Hell yes. Its been in the car for over a year now without a single hitch. It dives great now, and I don't have to worry about failures. Its the same as he built for the FLT Level 5. I tried to get ahold of FLT prior to finding Vince, but they were rather unresponsive to inquiries. Now, does that mean that they are any quality issues... not that Ive heard of, but after the way things went with Vince.... well... I'm not confident in FLT's work. I'll leave it at that
Actually, the same one multiple times. LOL It was supposedly "built" when I got it... NOPE. I had it rebuilt twice more, never lasted a year behind my 383. I finally got tired of ******* with it, and brought it to the guy who used to be the brains behind FLT, Vince. He works for a different trans shop now, and re-built my 4L60E the CORRECT way. He has a proprietary design for the forward piston, and has a specific way he sets the trans up. With all parts in total, which included some case repair (stripped bolt holes) and everything from the electrical harness to the vent tube replaced, I paid 1800 bucks. Worth it? Hell yes. Its been in the car for over a year now without a single hitch. It dives great now, and I don't have to worry about failures. Its the same as he built for the FLT Level 5. I tried to get ahold of FLT prior to finding Vince, but they were rather unresponsive to inquiries. Now, does that mean that they are any quality issues... not that Ive heard of, but after the way things went with Vince.... well... I'm not confident in FLT's work. I'll leave it at that