Issues after clutch install
Issues after clutch install So I just got done installing a new clutch (CC stage 2) and I have a few issues. First thing is, I broke one of the connections on my transmission. I think it is the Vegicle Speed Sensor because my speedo isn't working and I'm getting a code for it. Does this cause any problems for the car other than the speedometer not working? Where can I get a new one for the manual transmission? 2nd, on takeoff the car is very shaky, is this just the new clutch breaking in? Lastly, the car is very jumpy and wants to buck a lot now at lower speeds, and especially when taking off. Is this the new clutch also, or is it the VSS, or something completely different? Thanks
Not sure about the speed sensor. Have you tried an autoparts store? Dealer? GMParts Direct? Rock Auto?
As far as clutch engagement, make sure the slave rod is seated properly on the clutch fork cup. Did you make sure the clutch fork is fully engaged onto the throwout bearing? What did you torque the pressure plate bolts to?
As far as clutch engagement, make sure the slave rod is seated properly on the clutch fork cup. Did you make sure the clutch fork is fully engaged onto the throwout bearing? What did you torque the pressure plate bolts to?
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google T56 VSS sensor...the pigtail or sensor itself
assuming you installed the clutch correctly, it sounds like you are experiencing "clutch chatter" which is associated with clutch disc material more aggressive than full face organic discs (stock). I believe the CC 2 is a segmented puc type disc (ceramic) and they are prone to chatter especially during the 500+ mi break in period. Best not to "slip" the clutch on engagement. you may have to adjust your engagement technique (RPM + clutch release) to find the sweet spot
if you didn't resurface/replace your FW...that will contribute to chatter also using a new clutch
google T56 VSS sensor...the pigtail or sensor itself
assuming you installed the clutch correctly, it sounds like you are experiencing "clutch chatter" which is associated with clutch disc material more aggressive than full face organic discs (stock). I believe the CC 2 is a segmented puc type disc (ceramic) and they are prone to chatter especially during the 500+ mi break in period. Best not to "slip" the clutch on engagement. you may have to adjust your engagement technique (RPM + clutch release) to find the sweet spot
if you didn't resurface/replace your FW...that will contribute to chatter also using a new clutch
Checked the VSS, I forgot to plug it in 
Pressure plate was torqued to 35 ft lbs
As for the clutch chatter, I was probably just paranoid, it is getting a little better after a small amount if driving.
Pressure plate was torqued to 35 ft lbs
As for the clutch chatter, I was probably just paranoid, it is getting a little better after a small amount if driving.
Also I forgot to ask, I'm having a problem getting the car into reverse. The shifter won't go past the gate like sideways. I checked the plug on the reverse lockout solenoid with a multimeter and it was getting current. Any ideas?
The connectors for the skip shift and reverse lockout are the same. I have swapped them before and had the same problem. Didn't notice the skip shift since it's turned off.
PP torque spec is pretty low like 22 ft/lbs. I usually just set the torque wrench to 25 and go from there after seating the pressure plate. Stock bolts are grade 5 but I doubt 35 is too much for them.
And yeah, puck clutches are a little bit nastier. That and any time you upgrade friction materials you're gonna get chatter. I kinda miss my OEM style clutch, it was almost brainless to drive.
And yeah, puck clutches are a little bit nastier. That and any time you upgrade friction materials you're gonna get chatter. I kinda miss my OEM style clutch, it was almost brainless to drive.
