Shortys, Mids, LT's
The only emissions provisions I have are the pipes that rise up off the manifolds to the diverter valves which are plumbed in conjunction with the air injection pump, and of course the o2 sensor bungs, but thats it.
All the headers Ive looked at have those provisions as well as some having the small tube that comes from the header that looks like this> (o0o) From what I can tell those ones can be blocked off with a block off plate.
All the headers Ive looked at have those provisions as well as some having the small tube that comes from the header that looks like this> (o0o) From what I can tell those ones can be blocked off with a block off plate.
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From: Maricopa, AZ
The only emissions provisions I have are the pipes that rise up off the manifolds to the diverter valves which are plumbed in conjunction with the air injection pump, and of course the o2 sensor bungs, but thats it.
All the headers Ive looked at have those provisions as well as some having the small tube that comes from the header that looks like this> (o0o) From what I can tell those ones can be blocked off with a block off plate.
All the headers Ive looked at have those provisions as well as some having the small tube that comes from the header that looks like this> (o0o) From what I can tell those ones can be blocked off with a block off plate.
No. Look at the headers you posted in this thread. See the little tube with the flange on it? Not the straight riser tubes...the little ones. Those I dont have.
*****Ok, so on a second look, it looks like theres only one of the smaller tubes on the passenger side header...which I still do not have on my 93 Z.*** Im guessing the 94 and up LT1's have something that fits there????
*****Ok, so on a second look, it looks like theres only one of the smaller tubes on the passenger side header...which I still do not have on my 93 Z.*** Im guessing the 94 and up LT1's have something that fits there????
Last edited by JOHNNYMO; Aug 5, 2014 at 08:01 AM.
No. Look at the headers you posted in this thread. See the little tube with the flange on it? Not the straight riser tubes...the little ones. Those I dont have.
*****Ok, so on a second look, it looks like theres only one of the smaller tubes on the passenger side header...which I still do not have on my 93 Z.*** Im guessing the 94 and up LT1's have something that fits there????
*****Ok, so on a second look, it looks like theres only one of the smaller tubes on the passenger side header...which I still do not have on my 93 Z.*** Im guessing the 94 and up LT1's have something that fits there????
It's easy to use 94 emissions headers though. You simply need to buy a 94 EGR feed tube from GM. This goes from the flange on the #8 header tube to the back of the intake manifold. You then need a 94 air injection pipe and check valve to go into the bung on the #2 header tube. 93 and 94 use the same location for the driver side air injection port (#1 header tube). Last, you'll need some extra air injection hose and T-fitting to connect both air injection check valves to the air pump. I ran the hose around the back of the intake on my car.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Maricopa, AZ
Ok, I looked over my engine. I have the bung on the passenger side Cyl #8 and it feeds as you say. The driver side has the bung over cyl #1.
So if I purchase the headers for 94-97 years, why couldnt I simply cut off the small EGR feed on the #7 cyl and weld it shut or use a block off plate that Im sure I could fab up pretty easily?
It looks to me like the bungs on the #8 & #1 cylinders are in the same place on either the 93 or 94 headers...those are the only ones being used. Every thing else on my engine would remain the same and function as it is now as far as I can see.
So if I purchase the headers for 94-97 years, why couldnt I simply cut off the small EGR feed on the #7 cyl and weld it shut or use a block off plate that Im sure I could fab up pretty easily?
It looks to me like the bungs on the #8 & #1 cylinders are in the same place on either the 93 or 94 headers...those are the only ones being used. Every thing else on my engine would remain the same and function as it is now as far as I can see.
To help with the heated o2's that are moved down stream ive taken header wrap and wrapped the section with the sensor before and after a few inches; also take a small portion and wrap the sensor itself... don't know if it helps enough for the cost of wrapping but...
I dont find one single set of long tubes with the correct ports for emissions with the exception of shortys... Im probably gonna go with the shortys.... I want the sound to be better and if I pick up a few extra ponies, then fine...if not, I guess thats ok too...
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From: Maricopa, AZ
You will gain power with the shorties over stock manifolds. Anyone who says otherwise is ignorant and should be ignored. Long tubes will do a little better for sure, and really show if you do a head cam swap (10-20hp, leaning towards 10). But it should hardly be the determining factor on which headers to buy, especially on a street driven car.
Personally I was shooting for mid-lengths on my build. Pace setter makes some 1-5/8" mid's that would've worked for me for right around $300. But, I found some ceramic coated LT's locally for $200, add $140 for the Y-pipe and I was $40 more for a ceramic coated LT set up. I jumped on it. If that deal didn't arise, I'd be running mid's right now and enjoying the extra ground clearance at the sacrifice of 5-10 hp or so.
Personally I was shooting for mid-lengths on my build. Pace setter makes some 1-5/8" mid's that would've worked for me for right around $300. But, I found some ceramic coated LT's locally for $200, add $140 for the Y-pipe and I was $40 more for a ceramic coated LT set up. I jumped on it. If that deal didn't arise, I'd be running mid's right now and enjoying the extra ground clearance at the sacrifice of 5-10 hp or so.
The other option you have is to only run EGR and eliminate the air injection all together. That way you'll only have to install a 94 EGR feed tube. No ECM tuning would be necessary either, as long as you leave the fuse and relay for the air pump installed. It would clean up the engine bay too.
On a dyno you'd likely see the longer larger tubes making more horsepower at higher rpms. But with your mods the difference wouldn't be much. Pacesetter makes some mids with Y for about $300 I thought. Those should work nicely for you. Some people are pushing 425rwhp+ through 1-5/8" mid and shorties.
So yes, you're losing horsepower with the smaller shorter headers, but it's not a lot like everyone leads to believe. I'd guess 5-10 horsepower on a heads/cam car.
So yes, you're losing horsepower with the smaller shorter headers, but it's not a lot like everyone leads to believe. I'd guess 5-10 horsepower on a heads/cam car.
So why couldnt I simply remove the riser pipe from the passenger side #2 cylinder, seal the hole with weld or weld a small plate over the hole...then drill a hole in the #8 tube, and simply weld the riser in that spot? Of course Id need to cut off and weld the EGR small tube closed also. The driver side is actually ok and doesnt look like it would need any modification. This way I could use LT's for a 94& up.
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From: Maricopa, AZ
That should work, and shouldn't cost much either. Every Exhaust shop I go to for quick easy access welds only charge me $20-30. The most I paid was $50 to install my Magnaflow cat back I found on craigslist where he needed to weld in the over axle pipe to the I pipe and new hangars to the Magnaflow.
If you take them both the headers and your stock manifolds and show them what you need, I see no reason they couldn't do it cheap and fast with the pipes not in the car....
If you're in Colorado Springs, there's and exhaust shop called Muffler Masters on Austin Bluffs that my Brother used for his Camaro. Good prices and people, but that was back in 2009. I'm going to assume you're in Denver area though as you need the emissions crap and that's the only place in Colorado that requires it.
If you take them both the headers and your stock manifolds and show them what you need, I see no reason they couldn't do it cheap and fast with the pipes not in the car....
If you're in Colorado Springs, there's and exhaust shop called Muffler Masters on Austin Bluffs that my Brother used for his Camaro. Good prices and people, but that was back in 2009. I'm going to assume you're in Denver area though as you need the emissions crap and that's the only place in Colorado that requires it.
That should work, and shouldn't cost much either. Every Exhaust shop I go to for quick easy access welds only charge me $20-30. The most I paid was $50 to install my Magnaflow cat back I found on craigslist where he needed to weld in the over axle pipe to the I pipe and new hangars to the Magnaflow.
If you take them both the headers and your stock manifolds and show them what you need, I see no reason they couldn't do it cheap and fast with the pipes not in the car....
If you're in Colorado Springs, there's and exhaust shop called Muffler Masters on Austin Bluffs that my Brother used for his Camaro. Good prices and people, but that was back in 2009. I'm going to assume you're in Denver area though as you need the emissions crap and that's the only place in Colorado that requires it.
If you take them both the headers and your stock manifolds and show them what you need, I see no reason they couldn't do it cheap and fast with the pipes not in the car....
If you're in Colorado Springs, there's and exhaust shop called Muffler Masters on Austin Bluffs that my Brother used for his Camaro. Good prices and people, but that was back in 2009. I'm going to assume you're in Denver area though as you need the emissions crap and that's the only place in Colorado that requires it.
Actually Im in Canon City which is where the Royal Gorge bridge resides... No emissions here, but I really want to keep everything as close to stock "looking" as possible. Also, I will do the welding myself. I have a Miller mig and it shouldnt be too hard. Thanks for the input!
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Maricopa, AZ
Actually Im in Canon City which is where the Royal Gorge bridge resides... No emissions here, but I really want to keep everything as close to stock "looking" as possible. Also, I will do the welding myself. I have a Miller mig and it shouldnt be too hard. Thanks for the input!
Let us know how it goes.