Possible HP/TQ Rating?
Possible HP/TQ Rating? Could someone possibly come up with a reasonable hp/tq rating for this set up?
That and possibly some help with my compression ratio also?
Lt1 Block bored .030 over
Scat 9000 series 383 rotating assembly
+7cc flat top two valve relief hyperuretic pistons
93 pump gas
3.75inch stroke
cc503 comp cam 224/230 .503/.509 (.537/.544) with 1.6rr)
1.6 scorpion self aligning roller rockers
ls7 lifters
hardened pushrods
compcam dual coil valve springs
stock aluminum milled down heads ported and polished with port matched intake-no flow numbers
58mm holley throttle body
1 3/4 primary pacesetter longtubes
Through a 2800 stalled 4l60e and 10 bolt with 3.23 gears
Thanks in advance!
That and possibly some help with my compression ratio also?
Lt1 Block bored .030 over
Scat 9000 series 383 rotating assembly
+7cc flat top two valve relief hyperuretic pistons
93 pump gas
3.75inch stroke
cc503 comp cam 224/230 .503/.509 (.537/.544) with 1.6rr)
1.6 scorpion self aligning roller rockers
ls7 lifters
hardened pushrods
compcam dual coil valve springs
stock aluminum milled down heads ported and polished with port matched intake-no flow numbers
58mm holley throttle body
1 3/4 primary pacesetter longtubes
Through a 2800 stalled 4l60e and 10 bolt with 3.23 gears
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by StrokednSprayedLT; Sep 3, 2014 at 01:34 PM.
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From: Kinston North Carolina
With so little information about the cylinder heads it would be hard to make a educated guess and feel halfway confident that its in the ball park. Flow numbers and cross sectional area of the intake port would be a bit helpful in answering your question. The camshaft would be better suited in a bolt on stock cubed LT1. Don't mean to sound blunt but it will probably be a 2 pump chump in a 383 especially if the heads are small. Are you using stock size valves? How much were the heads milled? 54 cc chambers would put you at 12:1 with a zero decked block.
Last edited by wht97ws6ta; Sep 2, 2014 at 11:17 PM.
With so little information about the cylinder heads it would be hard to make a educated guess and feel halfway confident that its in the ball park. Flow numbers and cross sectional area of the intake port would be a bit helpful in answering your question. The camshaft would be better suited in a bolt on stock cubed LT1. Don't mean to sound blunt but it will probably be a 2 pump chump in a 383 especially if the heads are small. Are you using stock size valves? How much were the heads milled? 54 cc chambers would put you at 12:1 with a zero decked block.
and stock size new manley valves also, besides that thats all i really know, its just a home port job so no flow numbers
this is my piston head box if that helps.. and the gaskets are.039 compressed besides that my heads are 55cc and im not sure what the heads were milled to
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From: Maricopa, AZ
Assuming the block wasn't milled at all. I find an SCR of 11.62:1 with your combination of parts, and a DCR of 9.22:1. The quench is going to be about .056".
I'm also assuming comparable flow characteristics of LE2 heads. Not sure of your actual skill or knowledge of fluid dynamics though, nor your ability to handle the grinder. LE is one of the best out there though.
I wouldn't expect more than an SAE corrected 400whp on a Mustang Dyno. That may be generous though because your AFR will run on the richer side (bad for power) and your timing will be on the lower side (bad for power).
I hope you have a good tuner lined up because your quench and DCR on 93 can be little tricky. Luckily the LT1 is friendlier in this application with it's reverse cooling. A bigger cam would've actually helped here, so would a tighter quench.
If you went with the CC306 and an Impala head gasket, the quench and IVC event would allow for better AFR and timing on 93 Octane and put down more power. But, the issue with this is your pistons are hypereutectic and your crank is cast (at least its Scat). So rpms are limited. And given the specs on the CC306, it will want to test the limits of the PCM, your pistons likely cannot handle this. You likely will lose power with the higher SCR and bigger cam.
The good news is, if you get it dialed in, you should have a good amount of low end torque. Coming off the stop light should be loads of fun!
I'm also assuming comparable flow characteristics of LE2 heads. Not sure of your actual skill or knowledge of fluid dynamics though, nor your ability to handle the grinder. LE is one of the best out there though.
I wouldn't expect more than an SAE corrected 400whp on a Mustang Dyno. That may be generous though because your AFR will run on the richer side (bad for power) and your timing will be on the lower side (bad for power).
I hope you have a good tuner lined up because your quench and DCR on 93 can be little tricky. Luckily the LT1 is friendlier in this application with it's reverse cooling. A bigger cam would've actually helped here, so would a tighter quench.
If you went with the CC306 and an Impala head gasket, the quench and IVC event would allow for better AFR and timing on 93 Octane and put down more power. But, the issue with this is your pistons are hypereutectic and your crank is cast (at least its Scat). So rpms are limited. And given the specs on the CC306, it will want to test the limits of the PCM, your pistons likely cannot handle this. You likely will lose power with the higher SCR and bigger cam.
The good news is, if you get it dialed in, you should have a good amount of low end torque. Coming off the stop light should be loads of fun!
Not to be a dick but a cast crank 383 with heads port matched and "ported and polished" with a cam suited for a stock headed 350 will probably not put down more than 350rwhp, if that. The crank is fine if you stay small cam and no spray and below 6300rpm, where that cam would not make power past anyways on a 383. It will be a torque monster, but not put down good 1/4 mile times. If you choose to go to a cam better suited for a 383 with good heads like a 236/242ish cam, and wind it out to where any build should be, PCM limit of 7000, you'll snap that crank. If you are spending the money to build an engine, why build one that will get beat by a cam only stock engine? Do it right, ditch the cast crank, sell those rods and pistons and get a stock crank, 6" rods, new +5 or so forged pistons, and a good head/cam package and you'll make over 400rwhp. Cubic inches don't make power, the air you stuff into the cylinders does. Good heads and a good cam will stuff more air into the cylinders than just adding cubes with no path for the air to get there.
Thanks for the input yall! Originally bought the cam to stick into my stock engine then decide to completely rebuild so thats why im using that cam, it sounds like i should probably sell this cam and get another one thats slightly bigger to make up for it being a 383,
Thanks!
Thanks!
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From: Maricopa, AZ
Thanks for the input yall! Originally bought the cam to stick into my stock engine then decide to completely rebuild so thats why im using that cam, it sounds like i should probably sell this cam and get another one thats slightly bigger to make up for it being a 383,
Thanks!
Thanks!
You're kind of stuck without selling the crank and pistons and getting forged as replacement. Also, did you get the rotating assembly balanced, or any machine work on the block?
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ill make sure to ask next time, building a turbo set up right now that ill have plenty of questions for when the time comes! thanks for letting me know my setup now is complete **** and should be torn apart lol
Just looked up that piston part number, they are hyperutectic with thick old school rings made in Mexico, a HUGE step back from the Manley stock pistons, and that cast crank is weaker than the gm cast crank. I'm sorry to say it but yes sell all of that stuff and reuse your stock crank, get 6" forged rods and forged pistons with 1.5/1.5/3mm rings.
so what would happen if i still did run this setup? just not big power numbers? literally this is just a weekend vehicle that wont be driven extremely hard, not like im shifting at 6700 rpm everyday!
Then just enjoy it. If you always listened to the internet you would be broke and have a pile of parts that would still not impress people.
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From: Maricopa, AZ
This. I don't think this is a terrible combination of parts. Just don't expect any big numbers. This should be a blast to drive.
Okay, thats what i was looking for. but i got one problem its a 94 obd1 and i dont wanna mail order tune, anyone that tunes ond1 around the southern indiana area? willing to haul it a couple hours if i have to
Yes you can run what you bought, just don't go bragging to people you have a 383 because you'll get whipped by a cam only 350. Just tell people it's stock and just keep to yourself that you paid a bunch of money for a low performing engine. Sorry to be a dick, just laying it out for you, don't expect more than 350rwhp with that cam, and if you go to a bigger cam and spin it to 7000 you might break your crank or weak pistons. And don't put in a huge cam and only run to 6000rpm, it'll be even slower if you don't use the power range. With that cam it will be a torque monster and more fun to drive than a stock motor, and that's all your after you are fine.
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; Sep 4, 2014 at 12:08 PM.
thats basically all im after was something better than stock. and now i have an excuse to spray the **** out of it and wait for it to explode so i can build it right lol
So instead of pulling out that rotating assembly and selling it and selling the cam, your willing to snap a crank or piston and destroy your block, heads, cam, and everything in the whole engine and build another one? If you were fine with "better than stock" then why blow this one up? Either be happy with 350hp or build it for your intended purpose, I don't see how breaking everything is worth it.
How are you going to run it on the dyno this weekend without having found a tuner yet?
How are you going to run it on the dyno this weekend without having found a tuner yet?
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; Sep 4, 2014 at 12:37 PM.