The long awaited time is here! The MagnaTronX Is assembled, bench tested, and ready to install. I do still have to build a small circuit to protect the ECU inputs, basically what I used on the test bench.
As stated in the other thread, the plan is to have it running on the MagnaTronX by the end of next weekend, the only problem I see is if the reluctor is on the wrong Cycle, or out of time, but really that is as simple as making a new reluctor. This is why I’ll be using the water pump spacer that Chris has so gracefully supplied; I’ll get pictures of this as it goes together. .
The LT1 has the TPI holes drilled and tapped in the heads, this is to fix a really ugly fubar with the first TPI lower. Cam is going in, in the morning and then reassembly starts.
I am also going to research a better seal for the water pump drive in the timing chain cover, I don’t know about you all but mine leaks bad. It is a pretty poor excuse for a seal IMO, I want to find a double lip seal. I know that there should be something out there, heck!! Motorcycles use seals that are smaller than these???
Lastly, does anyone know how to get CMP/CKP offset reading in EFILive? This will be quite helpful in the testing phase of the MagnaTronX.

 

The water pump drive seal is double lip, if yours is leaking you probably rolled the inner one out.

 

WTF is a MagaTronX

 

WT% it is, Is an Opti no spark that has been modified to output a 2X signal, to facilitate the change over to a '411 LS1 ECU. My design Sir!!

You see I am running an LT1 on 4X like the 5.7 vortec sequential fire, with an LS1 ECU. and tunning with EFILive.

 

I have done a little research today, one of the drawbacks with the WP drive seal is the small size and the speed at which it turns. This is why GM used the type of seal that is used; I am still looking into a type 470 seal, which is a traditional double seal with a spring, like the front crankshaft seal.

 

cam/lifters are in, changing Valve springs and seals tomorrow AM, maybe get the lower intake bolted back on?? still have some mods to do to it. the ECU buffer prototype is assembled, ( it is small enough to fit inside the opti housing with the sensor). should have it mounted tomorrow as well. moving slowly, but it is moving.

 

Sounds good, can't wait to see any progress.

 

Would there be any moisture issues with the new electronics? Are you going to use the original cap in place?

 

I was able to get the buffer connected to the sensor, and tested the complete circuit, it does work!!! the work continues. Moisture should be reduced to the same as a vortec, if it gets to high of a concentration in the cap, your done. should not both my stuff as I will seal it all. and Ozone will not affect the sensor, ozone is a byproduct of electrical discharge.

 

The anticipation is killing me here.... Its like a movie trailer in here but no movie.

 

I agree! I've been anticipating this since the initial concept was mentioned, I even sent him a dead opti to be ahead of the game once the conversions start. Dont rush slow progress is better than no progress.

 

it is slow, I worked last weekend, man talk about Jetlag, wow I am working on this every spair minute I can dig up, Last night, after work,like 1:45am, I did some testing on the factory Vortec sensor, I guess the one that I used must be shorted, couldnt get it to change state. I am still pushing for Sunday nite light off, Cross your fingers.

 

Any pictures?

 

bad news -- sort of, lol I am shut down on the front of the motor. I took the timing chain cover and associated seals to the local bearing/seal supplier. I now have 2 "true" lip seals on there way. Tuesday delivery. I will finish the top of the motor and install new fuel lines in the mean time.

P.S. yes I'll post the new seal part numbers when They check out to be a viable replacement.

 

Smitty, I'm not trying to be an **** here but no pictures of the actual mod until it is ready to sell, I hope you understand, there has been to much foot work and money spent on my end to just put it out there. but on a happer note, the price is going to be "Real" competative with a new Opti. my original cost gestimation was bassed on a lot more engineering involvement. Since I have been able to do most of the "engeneering" work myself, well! that is cost that I won't have to pass on.

Just a teaser ; The final price should be at or under the $350 range shipping to you included , with a $100 core

I am like you guys this thing is so close I wish that I didn't have to work for a living and could dedicate all my time to it.

 

Understood.

I'll have to look through your other thread to fully understand the need/benefit to get one of these and exactly how this is better than the typical Opti.

 

Cool so now we are on the same page?

 

I suffered another 2 1/2 hour setback today, the LUNATI cam that I have is not drilled for the shaft on the back of the OPTI. my choices were delay up to 2 weeks getting it rectified or swap the original cam back in. Since I NEED the truck this weekend, I opted for the latter, It did run well anyway; so it is not a huge setback. I had hoped to have the top, fuel lines, and headers back on today, BUT OH WELL!!! such is life at my house LOL!! I hope to pick up the new seals tomorrow, then ~~Maybe get the front of the motor on?? depending how big of a fight the pan seal gives me.

the good thing I would guess I hadn't installed the TPI runners and upper, saved myself that money

 

Picked up the new seals today, not sure about the opti seal yet but the WP seal is a winner. Can't figure out how to post a picture from my phone????

 

here is a look at the basic setup, the cap and rotor will fit as it it were still an Opti. it is complete and ready for testing how be it "not clocked correctly" lol