LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 cam swap?

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Old May 27, 2004 | 10:07 AM
  #21  
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Oh yeah also on the air pump.....take the line that goes to the header off too? and block it off?
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Old May 27, 2004 | 02:20 PM
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Yep, they go all the way back on both sides (the part that bolts into the manifolds needs blocked off) and then one part on your Intake Elbow just before the MAF.
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Old May 27, 2004 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Jordan57
so basically thread the bolts through....put the nuts on the backside and then put the impact on the big bolt that goes to the center and turn it in? And should the big bolt be against the crank bolt thats threaded in? or a longer skinnier bolt that goes all the way back into the crank? Sorry for the confusion but i wanna get this F*er off now!
Hmm..you lost me here ..

Ok, put the skinny bolts (3) thru the crank and put nuts on them. The puller has a long threaded "bolt" going thru it. This should push on the Crank BOLT that was already there. Make sure the bolt not tight, or you will defeat the entire purpose of the puller.
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Old May 27, 2004 | 10:32 PM
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Ok finally got the hub off....all it took was a lil impact....heheheh Anyways....then off with the old and in with the new: cam, timing chain, gaskets etc. And also the timing cover is back on along with the hub....so tommorow i guess opti **** and waterpump and intake....ummm condenser....radiator...alternator......etc....oh yeah btw....what should i use to plug where the AIR pump went into both sides of the FLP headers? And also what to use on the side of the CAI to plug that. One more thing......what does the little sensor do on the clip on the back of that AIR tube crossover thingey????????
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Old May 28, 2004 | 12:47 AM
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Hmm..no idea (OBDII??)

I think someone said M22 Oil drain plugs fit (autozone??)
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Old May 28, 2004 | 01:33 AM
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I guess you have already gotten though this part but for those looking to do a cam swap the ac condensor can be left on and rotated out of the way.

Rich
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Old May 28, 2004 | 06:25 AM
  #27  
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I'm tryng to think what sensor, but I can't seem to picture it. I mostly build or work with OBD I and we have no stinking sensor. Though I have worked on many OBD II's I can't picture it right now. Besides, most guys I know have already removed them.
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Old May 29, 2004 | 12:01 PM
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You can rotate the consensor out of the way being careful not to pinch the line with the corner of the condensor. Support it with a breaker bar or whatever. Here are a couple pics I took during my cam change. I also had to remove one bolt from the hood latch and rotate it out of the way. I needed that extra 1" to get the cam completely out.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...66237512rBUovR

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...66237707RuYnnB

Last edited by PoorMan; May 29, 2004 at 12:07 PM.
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Old May 31, 2004 | 11:13 PM
  #29  
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Wow....finally done...besides the fact that #8 exhaust rocker needs to be adjusted tighter....but damn man that was fun and holy cow it sounds wicked. Just like an old muscle car....nice lope for sure....just needs a tune now.....I am very excited to get this beast tuned and to the track....will keep ya'll posted
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Old Jun 12, 2004 | 01:49 PM
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Not to hijack the thread but how exactly do you put the hub back on to the crank, i'm terrified of accidently stripping the crank. is their an easier way? I put some oil to lube it up but their is no go on the crank or the pulley please help
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