LT1 Build
LT1 Build So im in the process of building a supercharged 383. Just wanting some feedback on power estimates and maybe 1/4 or 1/8 times.
4 bolt main .040 over
Forged callies dragonslayer crank
Forged compstar rods
Forged mahle -26cc pistons
Trickflow fast as cast 195cc heads
Full exhaust
Vortech v1 t trim power adder
.563/224 .572/236 with a 114 lsa boost cam from LE.
1.6 rr
Clevite bearings
Aiming for 9 or 9.5 compression
Built 4l60e with 3500 stall.
Any thoughts comments or concerns please ask.
4 bolt main .040 over
Forged callies dragonslayer crank
Forged compstar rods
Forged mahle -26cc pistons
Trickflow fast as cast 195cc heads
Full exhaust
Vortech v1 t trim power adder
.563/224 .572/236 with a 114 lsa boost cam from LE.
1.6 rr
Clevite bearings
Aiming for 9 or 9.5 compression
Built 4l60e with 3500 stall.
Any thoughts comments or concerns please ask.
^^What's your power goal?
-.040 is a little on the thin side but I'm sure it will hold up.
-That crank is overkill for the RPM/power you'll see with the stated top end. You can get an offshore crank and it will hold up just fine. The K1 4340 383 crank is only $690obo on eBay (I'm sure you could get it for $625~) and the machining should be spot on compared to the other budget cranks which will save you money.
-The springs on the TFS heads are crap so toss them. The Ferrea valves are also pretty heavy (I think the intake was something like 120g?) so you're going to need good springs with that cam and boost pushing on the intake side.
-Be careful with the 4032 shelf Mahles because the top land and crown thicknesses vary. Keep in mind that big dishes and valve pockets get uncomfortably close to the back of the top ring groove which creates a massive weak point. When you pair this with the 4032 street car alloy it's more prone to breakage from heat. A properly designed piston that's thick will help out.
Here are two very similar 4032 powerpak pistons. They're both 1.425" height pistons for a 383 with 5.7" rods. The top one is what I'm using in my build.
SBC425030I16, -16cc D-shaped dish, .236" top land and .197" crown
SBC425030I26, -26cc D-shaped dish, .206" top land and .175" crown
-.040 is a little on the thin side but I'm sure it will hold up.
-That crank is overkill for the RPM/power you'll see with the stated top end. You can get an offshore crank and it will hold up just fine. The K1 4340 383 crank is only $690obo on eBay (I'm sure you could get it for $625~) and the machining should be spot on compared to the other budget cranks which will save you money.
-The springs on the TFS heads are crap so toss them. The Ferrea valves are also pretty heavy (I think the intake was something like 120g?) so you're going to need good springs with that cam and boost pushing on the intake side.
-Be careful with the 4032 shelf Mahles because the top land and crown thicknesses vary. Keep in mind that big dishes and valve pockets get uncomfortably close to the back of the top ring groove which creates a massive weak point. When you pair this with the 4032 street car alloy it's more prone to breakage from heat. A properly designed piston that's thick will help out.
Here are two very similar 4032 powerpak pistons. They're both 1.425" height pistons for a 383 with 5.7" rods. The top one is what I'm using in my build.
SBC425030I16, -16cc D-shaped dish, .236" top land and .197" crown
SBC425030I26, -26cc D-shaped dish, .206" top land and .175" crown
Last edited by Catmaigne; Dec 4, 2014 at 10:32 AM.
As for the crank, we got a VERY good deal on it, to good to pass up kinda deal. There shouldnt be any machine work because we bought the block the crank came out of.
Power goals i am hoping for 550 to 650 rwhp. Idk if thats unrealistic or not.
Power goals i am hoping for 550 to 650 rwhp. Idk if thats unrealistic or not.
Last edited by WCT13; Dec 2, 2014 at 03:36 AM.
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Bottom end should handle that no problem. You will want to work on the heads to make sure the springs will handle what you are doing. I have a set of nice Callies 5.7 forged rods if you need them.