Juanquezadalt1

hey guys i swapped transmissions a few months ago because my first transmission would redline everytime i raced (all motor). for the second transmission i got a 4l60 from a caprice all i had to do is change the tail so i can bolt my torque arm. this transmission was perfect all motor absolutely no redlines. but when i did a full pass with nitrous it redlined 1>2 and 2>3 really bad. what could it be is this transmission done as well what is something i can do to fix this stage 3 rebuild? stronger transmission? any ideas help because i was thinking on taking my first transmission to get a rebuild with better stronger parts

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Do you understand that the shift rpm command point needs to be well below rev limit. It takes time to complete a shift when adding extra power it can cause the rpm reached in the gap between commanded shift and actual completion to go up. If the rev limiter is too close you hit it.
When buying a built 4L60E there are a lot of well marketed JUNK options and a list of fancy parts is often a sign of a bad build.

93M6Formula

You're going to keep blowing through 60Es too if you think stock ones will hold up to any spray. You're going to need a well built unit to handle anything above stock. FLT is a solid choice. Stay away from Monster. You need to spend money to make them reliable. Otherwise do an 80E or a Turbo 400.

Juanquezadalt1

Iv heard of 4l80 and seen them those are bullet proof so are the 400 iv never heard of a FLT were can I go to learn more about this because all motor my trans shifts perfect but with nitrous it redlines like crazy that's when I stopped spraying because redline and nitrous is not a good combo I want to bump up my shot but can't if the tranny won't hold

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Redline or hits the rev limiter? Stock rev limiter is 6100 I think, is the car stock on stock tune?

93M6Formula

Dude the stock 60E can barely handle a bolt on car, adding 100HP is NOT going to keep it in one piece. FLT is about the only company I would trust to build me a 60E, there are maybe 1 or 2 others. But I would weigh your options, If you daily drive your car and don't race that often, a good built 60E would do the trick. If you race it constantly, I would look towards a TH350, TH400, or a 4L80E swap. The first 2 are 3 speeds, the 80E having OD if you want to keep 4th gear.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

And Dude, if you want any real help in figuring out if your transmission is ok or not, start by giving us some information to work with instead of unintelligible unpunctuated gibberish.
Instead of repeatedly saying "it redlines", try stuff like this:
Is it eventually shifting without lifting off the throttle?
At what rpm does it hit the limiter then shift?
Is the programming stock?
If not, what are the shift points set at? (each shift point)
What is the rev limiter set at?
Is your engine stock other than the nitrous?
How big of a shot?
If your TC isn't stock, what is it?

I'd plan on keeping the 4L60E. Properly assembled, they can take a lot, and it sounds to me like the last headache you need on your hands is trans swap hassles. Since you're in CA, if it needs attention, take it to ProBuilt Automatics. They are one of the best at making them last behind a lot of power.

I'm using the 4L60E and perfectly happy with it.

Edit: saw your sig in the first post.......stock engine, 125 shot. You are nowhere near the limit of a competently built 4L60E.

Juanquezadalt1

sorry for the lack of info and bad explaining and yes my car is still on a stock tune it will shift without letting off the gas but the the needle is just stuck on and bouncing at around 6000rpm it will shift without letting off the gas but it does a bit as to instant shifting all motor. no the car is not an everyday driver it is just a weekend toy or i bring it out to race when i have to. i have full exhaust intake 3.73 gears and a 125 wet shot. i learned these 4l60s are weak thats why i want to know what are better swaps or a way to improve them. i only use the car for 1/4 and to drive to the track or testing spot

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

OK. The first thing I would do is get a basic mailorder tune that moves the rev limiter up by 500 rpm. Unless you're running an ignition box that pulls timing when on the spray, tell them to leave WOT timing at stock.
If you're always running nitrous, then have them move the WOT shift points down by 300 rpm.
Unless the trans is fairly fresh AND it has a Transgo or equiv shift kit, it will eventually fail.

cuisinartvette

Ed at 4 wheel specialties in North Hills about 40 min or so from you
his guy builds about any type of auto trans you can think of havent seen one break yet.

Ron at TRC trans in Chatsworth isnt bad but for a real hi perf application Id be talking to Ed. Honest guy fair backs his work up, never blown up one of his rearends, either.

Stock 4l60e are garbage period. Been through a number of them in my 02 Silverado DD driven easy bone stock. OD clutches are once again on the fritz. How hard is it to build a simple T400 with an OD.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

A stock 4L60E from a Caprice, Buick, Caddy Fleetwood, or a truck is worse than a stock Trans from an F body, because they have a smaller servo. You will not keep the 3-4 clutch pack in it.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

Thank you. I failed to mention that. That's the first part you need to replace in any 4L60E that didn't come in a Y/F-body or ImpalaSS.
The factory 4L60E in my pickup, with 093 servo and Transgo kit, lasted 300k miles of hard usage, towing and blowing a 100 shot through the shifts, before it needed clutches.

criticalx

I been 10.56 on a junk yard 4l60e. Nothing done but fuild change and been 1.410 on 10 bolt. So call it lucky or maybe don't abuse stuff if ur not going in st8 line.