Car Not Running - Need Help
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Maricopa, AZ
The corroded plug isn't s big issue just cleaning out should work fine. But it's not your problem. Not revving over 2k leads me to clogged cats. Do you have an exhaust leak? Maybe a video of the engine running would help us help you.
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Launching!
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From: Palm Harbor, Florida
I have a y-pipe with no cats, so they are not clogged, I would be shocked if an exhaust leak caused all of these issues.
A video is definitely a good idea. One I refill my coolant and bleed the lines I will post a video.
A video is definitely a good idea. One I refill my coolant and bleed the lines I will post a video.
TECH Addict
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From: Maricopa, AZ
A video and a data log would help.
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Launching!
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From: Palm Harbor, Florida
So I finally put the opti and water pump all back together and was going to take a video of the symptoms for you guys, but now the car wont start. It is really slow to crank almost like the battery is low. I have charged the battery full many times and it keeps slow cranking like this. I checked the grounds on the ICM again, then cleaned them, and cleaned the terminal wires. Not sure what it causing this now, but I took of video of it so hopefully someone can figure it out.
Next time I am definitely going to start it before I install the water pump, just to be sure!
Next time I am definitely going to start it before I install the water pump, just to be sure!
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: New Hampshire
I know you checked to see if your spark plugs are firing but have you check to see if they are gaped correctly. If the plug doesn't have the correct gap clearance, it will cause the plug perform poorly. I would also check the engine timing. If the motor is not correct timed, it could also cause your problems you are describing. One more thing. Have you had your computer flashed or performance chips installed to modify the timing of the motor, spark, etc... anything? A bad flash can cause the issue.
I hope this helps.
I hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Launching!
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From: Palm Harbor, Florida
I did have my computer tuned, but that was many years ago.
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I would either try testing the ICM or borrow one from another LT1, it could be faulty. Also do you have the ICM spacer mod?
if these check out, then I would start looking at the opti.
if these check out, then I would start looking at the opti.
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Launching!
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From: Palm Harbor, Florida
but the starter was replaced about 5 years ago. I think it's more so something I did wrong putting it back together because it cranked fine before I removed the opti and water pump but suddenly had a problem after I put it back together. I have not checked the ICM, so I will look up a tutorial on that now. As for the spacer mod, I have never heard of that so I doubt I have it.
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Launching!
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From: Palm Harbor, Florida
Ok, I have finally gotten back into this. I took the opti back off, took it apart and inspected it. Looked clean, no signs of moisture inside, the cap and rotor did not look too worn, so I think it's fine. Put it back on and hooked everything up without putting the water pump back on. It cranks fine now, so that issue is gone, but it still won't start. I went ahead and did all the DVM testing for the opti and ICM that was suggested on Shbox, all results came back just fine.
With those test results good, does that mean my opti is ok?
I even sprayed starter fluid into the TB so I don't think it is fuel related. I really don't know where to look next to try and figure this thing out.
With those test results good, does that mean my opti is ok?
I even sprayed starter fluid into the TB so I don't think it is fuel related. I really don't know where to look next to try and figure this thing out.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY, Dalton GA, Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
Any idea what kind of optispark you have? When you took it apart, did you disassemble it to the point of being able to determine whether the optical sensor is a Mitsubishi?
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From: Maricopa, AZ
You checked Fuel spray (did you check pressure??), and you checked for spark (did you check spark strength??), the next thing to check is compression..... Those are the 3 things you need for and engine to run.
Can you post a video of your car trying to crank as is?
Can you post a video of your car trying to crank as is?
Thread Starter
Launching!
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From: Palm Harbor, Florida
Video as it is now. You can hear it start to catch, but never fully fire up.
I appreciate everyone's help on this. Hopefully I can keep checking through things untill I figure it out. At least I am learning a lot in the process!
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Maricopa, AZ
That sounds like timing. You have fuel, I can hear the compression (still need to check every cylinder though), it wants to start. But sounds like the timing is off. If your optical sensor is jacked it could "clock " your engine wrong in the computer. Another thing that I've heard of is the cam driven side of the opti to the disc side of the opti can be off (pressed on wrong or spun).
You could try and draw your own timing lines on your engine and use a timing light of the #1 cylinder to see if it's off.
You could try and draw your own timing lines on your engine and use a timing light of the #1 cylinder to see if it's off.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY, Dalton GA, Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
Im not sure what kind it is. I tried looking it up and searching my email from when i ordered it, but it was many years ago and I dont remember and cant find it. All I know is that the cap is all black. I did disassemble it enough to look at the sensor and wheel, but I didnt look to see if it was a Mitsubishi.
Ok, I have finally gotten back into this. I took the opti back off, took it apart and inspected it. Looked clean, no signs of moisture inside, the cap and rotor did not look too worn, so I think it's fine. Put it back on and hooked everything up without putting the water pump back on. It cranks fine now, so that issue is gone, but it still won't start. I went ahead and did all the DVM testing for the opti and ICM that was suggested on Shbox, all results came back just fine.
With those test results good, does that mean my opti is ok?
I even sprayed starter fluid into the TB so I don't think it is fuel related. I really don't know where to look next to try and figure this thing out.
With those test results good, does that mean my opti is ok?
I even sprayed starter fluid into the TB so I don't think it is fuel related. I really don't know where to look next to try and figure this thing out.
Oh yeah, no codes is a CLASSIC optipark failure symptom! When mine took a **** a couple months ago I KNEW immediately (99% sure at least
) what failed due to no codes and horrible popping sounds when trying to start it. Not the best example, but I did no real troubleshooting, just replaced the highly suspect Autozone optispark and it started right up first try! Last edited by ahritchie; Apr 13, 2015 at 09:44 AM.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Slinger
That sounds like timing. You have fuel, I can hear the compression (still need to check every cylinder though), it wants to start. But sounds like the timing is off. If your optical sensor is jacked it could "clock " your engine wrong in the computer. Another thing that I've heard of is the cam driven side of the opti to the disc side of the opti can be off (pressed on wrong or spun).
You could try and draw your own timing lines on your engine and use a timing light of the #1 cylinder to see if it's off.
You could try and draw your own timing lines on your engine and use a timing light of the #1 cylinder to see if it's off.
fuel injectors thank you
Thread Starter
Launching!
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From: Palm Harbor, Florida
Ok so I got a compression tester and used it today. I could not get a reading from cylinders 2 & 4 because I could not get the hose hooked up. The plugs are so tight in there with the headers, and you can't get to it from the bottom beach use of the a/c. The hose would have needed to bend 90 degrees to get it threaded in, and I got frustrated and gave up.
So the results are below. I know that they are all supposed to be within 10% of each other, so what's that mean for cylinders 6 & 7?
1 - 165
2 - ?
3 - 160
4 - ?
5 - 170
6 - 130
7 - 140
8 - 150
So the results are below. I know that they are all supposed to be within 10% of each other, so what's that mean for cylinders 6 & 7?
1 - 165
2 - ?
3 - 160
4 - ?
5 - 170
6 - 130
7 - 140
8 - 150