Street Twin users, did you have to remove material on the fork pivot (t bolt deal)
02-16-2015, 11:56 AM
#2
yes. I don't think everyone had to but I did. I could not get enough travel without fork "buzzing" the PP to fully disengage the clutch. Had to pull tranny, take out "T" stud and cut a washers thickness off. Took it to a machine shop as I wanted it straight and the metal was seriously hard.
on first start up, if you didn't cut the "T" down slowly push in clutch...slowly. as you push you will feel/hear and contact if there is any. If not and clutch pedal is all the way down confirm you can get it in gear and with the motor running the rear wheels do not turn. If so adjust the MC rod longer (take baby steps) until you do get full disengagement. If during this process you do hear the fork buzzing (and you will if it does) you know then you have to pull tranny and remove the fork "T" and cut it down
Once I did all is fine and clutch operates perfectly. I have the Twin with the Wilwood 13/16" MC with adjustable rod that came in the kit.
Also really keep track of the shims used in the stands EXACTLY as the clutch comes pre-assembled. Confirm measurement of bottom disc & floater plate before proceeding to put top disc & PP on.
I should have gone with the Twin originally instead of paying for the single disc clutches of various brands before going with the Twin. Great clutch
pics of cut down T and feeler gauge measuring bottom disc
on first start up, if you didn't cut the "T" down slowly push in clutch...slowly. as you push you will feel/hear and contact if there is any. If not and clutch pedal is all the way down confirm you can get it in gear and with the motor running the rear wheels do not turn. If so adjust the MC rod longer (take baby steps) until you do get full disengagement. If during this process you do hear the fork buzzing (and you will if it does) you know then you have to pull tranny and remove the fork "T" and cut it down
Once I did all is fine and clutch operates perfectly. I have the Twin with the Wilwood 13/16" MC with adjustable rod that came in the kit.
Also really keep track of the shims used in the stands EXACTLY as the clutch comes pre-assembled. Confirm measurement of bottom disc & floater plate before proceeding to put top disc & PP on.
I should have gone with the Twin originally instead of paying for the single disc clutches of various brands before going with the Twin. Great clutch
pics of cut down T and feeler gauge measuring bottom disc
02-16-2015, 12:08 PM
#3
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Well, I am going to go ahead and take care of it before I even install it. There is no downside to removing material is there? I rather get it taken care of before hand by removing an 1/8 or so. I plan on using a shorter bolt as well, as I read that the factory bolt could bottom out after you cut the T stud.
02-16-2015, 12:58 PM
#4
my bolt still fit, no problem. 1/8" (.125) off of m "T"
If you did not in fact need to trim the T you may wind up with disengagement/engagement being at the very top of pedal if you do trim it. Yeah I know it is a PIA to have to drop tranny again if you don't and find out if you need to.
Maybe others will chime in and you can better get a broader result of who had to and who did not. Obviously if the majority did have to than I would have from the start. It happened to me and I emailed Lee and he said "cut a washer thickness from the "T" base".
My clutch pedal sits about 3/8" higher with the Twin vs the single disc clutch. adjusted the MC rod until I got FULL disengagement after cutting down T and that is where it wound up in my set-up. I will say though I have a custom clutch pedal as my application is B- body but I use F-body hydraulics/clutch so regardless on how MC is mounted differently in mine it still needs to push the stock slave .xxx" to release he clutch.
I did read one guy put his Twin in, pushed his clutch pedal in and when he started ripped the teeth off his starter because the fork was against PP. Which is why I suggest "slowly" pushing in pedal when you start to hear if there is any contact. The contact would be the outer edge of PP if you do have it. Obviously you have to partially push in clutch to start the car so the NSS engages....assuming you have it hooked up
If you did not in fact need to trim the T you may wind up with disengagement/engagement being at the very top of pedal if you do trim it. Yeah I know it is a PIA to have to drop tranny again if you don't and find out if you need to.
Maybe others will chime in and you can better get a broader result of who had to and who did not. Obviously if the majority did have to than I would have from the start. It happened to me and I emailed Lee and he said "cut a washer thickness from the "T" base".
My clutch pedal sits about 3/8" higher with the Twin vs the single disc clutch. adjusted the MC rod until I got FULL disengagement after cutting down T and that is where it wound up in my set-up. I will say though I have a custom clutch pedal as my application is B- body but I use F-body hydraulics/clutch so regardless on how MC is mounted differently in mine it still needs to push the stock slave .xxx" to release he clutch.
I did read one guy put his Twin in, pushed his clutch pedal in and when he started ripped the teeth off his starter because the fork was against PP. Which is why I suggest "slowly" pushing in pedal when you start to hear if there is any contact. The contact would be the outer edge of PP if you do have it. Obviously you have to partially push in clutch to start the car so the NSS engages....assuming you have it hooked up
