LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 or LS1?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 04:47 AM
  #21  
99Brd's Avatar
Staging Lane
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Default

Originally Posted by Z28soon
Well then what do you suggest, a LS1 95k miles for $8k or an LT1 70k for $7k?
Both of those in my opinion are low mileage cars. Remember depending on what year lt1 you purchase that car can be registered as historic. I know it's going to sound crazy, but I bought my ls1 with 229k on the motor and trans, and still runs smooth and pulls hard through all gears. As I stated before parts, and finding shops too work on an ls1 car are more readily available. At the end of the day the decision will be yours, but I lean more towards an ls1. JMO
Reply
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 10:49 AM
  #22  
myltwon's Avatar
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,965
Likes: 7
From: Palm Harbor, FL
Default

For 1k id say go ls
Reply
Old Mar 23, 2015 | 09:51 AM
  #23  
ahritchie's Avatar
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,241
Likes: 1
From: Charlotte NC
Default

LS all day
Reply
Old Mar 23, 2015 | 10:46 AM
  #24  
sweetbmxrider's Avatar
TECH Addict
iTrader: (13)
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,768
Likes: 3
From: jersey shore
Default

I would drive both. Then I would look at both. Then I would decide which is better for me.
Reply
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 11:00 AM
  #25  
Paul Bell's Avatar
That's MISTER MODERATOR
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Loved
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,615
Likes: 63
From: NYC
Default

Get a LS1.
Reply
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 01:48 PM
  #26  
Z28soon's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by myltwon
For 1k id say go ls
For 1k plus 20k+ mileage difference, but I'm just asking is 95k miles a lot in these motors?
Reply
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 01:49 PM
  #27  
Z28soon's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by 99Brd
Both of those in my opinion are low mileage cars. Remember depending on what year lt1 you purchase that car can be registered as historic. I know it's going to sound crazy, but I bought my ls1 with 229k on the motor and trans, and still runs smooth and pulls hard through all gears. As I stated before parts, and finding shops too work on an ls1 car are more readily available. At the end of the day the decision will be yours, but I lean more towards an ls1. JMO
What do you mean historic? The car's a 95 so it's got a solid 20 under its belt
Reply
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 02:07 PM
  #28  
ahritchie's Avatar
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,241
Likes: 1
From: Charlotte NC
Default

Originally Posted by Z28soon
What do you mean historic? The car's a 95 so it's got a solid 20 under its belt
I'm pretty sure he's talking about the special plates you can get for antique or "historic" cars. I've got one on my Healey, in NC the car has to be 35 years old to get an Antique auto plate (no inspection required at all ). It varies from state to state though.
Reply
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 06:11 PM
  #29  
duh's Avatar
duh
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 2
From: burbs of chi-town
Default

Originally Posted by Z28soon
Well here judge my suspension setup, so far I'm thinking of BMR springs w/ Koni shocks + 35 mm front sway bar, 22 mm rears, 285 PSS all around (riding on 18x10 wheels) Maybe I'm missing somethings on the setup tho
I'm not much of a road racer with these cars, I primarily drag race. But from I've seen get ahold of Strano, he seems to be the go to guy for road course action. Guys running his suspension stuff are more than happy with the results.

For a 20K mile difference and $1000, go LS. To me the LT is overpriced. I paid $4000 for my 88,000 mile '93 5 or 6 years ago.

Start with the car, do the suspension work (and any other minor maintinence problems), then talk the car to a few autocross events and learn what the car does and how it moves. Then start small. Exhaust, intake etc.

As long as you have a 6 speed, you'll have a blast and learn real quick. Then move up to track days and what not.

Road racing is a blast, but you've gotta move into it slowly so you don't hurt yourself, or the car.

Good luck
Reply
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 06:30 PM
  #30  
98CayenneT/A's Avatar
TECH Junkie
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Loved
 
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
Default

Here in Minnesota they are collector plates and your vehicle has to be 20+ years old.
Not trying to start a war but if you ask me with the option of being able to get a ls1 in a f-body..... buying a lt1 would be foolish.
As far as 95,000 miles go, in the big picture it's not that many. This past fall I went to my track to make some passes and I ran 12.40@110mph, my car has 65,000mi on it. Mods are yank 3600, exhaust and 3.73's
Another guy was there that I was talking to all day has a 99 camaro with 225,000mi. exact same mods as me only he had a yank 4000, he was running 12.5x@110mph
Reply
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 08:07 PM
  #31  
Z28soon's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by duh
I'm not much of a road racer with these cars, I primarily drag race. But from I've seen get ahold of Strano, he seems to be the go to guy for road course action. Guys running his suspension stuff are more than happy with the results.

For a 20K mile difference and $1000, go LS. To me the LT is overpriced. I paid $4000 for my 88,000 mile '93 5 or 6 years ago.

Start with the car, do the suspension work (and any other minor maintinence problems), then talk the car to a few autocross events and learn what the car does and how it moves. Then start small. Exhaust, intake etc.

As long as you have a 6 speed, you'll have a blast and learn real quick. Then move up to track days and what not.

Road racing is a blast, but you've gotta move into it slowly so you don't hurt yourself, or the car.

Good luck
Very helpful advice, thank you! And yup Strano springs are the way to go.
Reply
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 08:08 PM
  #32  
Z28soon's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
Here in Minnesota they are collector plates and your vehicle has to be 20+ years old.
Not trying to start a war but if you ask me with the option of being able to get a ls1 in a f-body..... buying a lt1 would be foolish.
As far as 95,000 miles go, in the big picture it's not that many. This past fall I went to my track to make some passes and I ran 12.40@110mph, my car has 65,000mi on it. Mods are yank 3600, exhaust and 3.73's
Another guy was there that I was talking to all day has a 99 camaro with 225,000mi. exact same mods as me only he had a yank 4000, he was running 12.5x@110mph
Wow good to know, I thought in general more miles = more wear and a slower car. Thank you! All helpful advice here, appreciate it... will go LS!
Reply
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 09:28 AM
  #33  
ahritchie's Avatar
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,241
Likes: 1
From: Charlotte NC
Default

Originally Posted by Z28soon
Wow good to know, I thought in general more miles = more wear and a slower car. Thank you! All helpful advice here, appreciate it... will go LS!
How well the car was cared for and maintained (or not) IMO is more important than mileage. I would look for the lowest mileage close to stock as possible LS1...if it's got a ton of mods you can assume it's been beat on and had a hard life Plus, you don't want to clean up someone else's basket case with potential issues.
Reply
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 01:57 PM
  #34  
Z28soon's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by ahritchie
How well the car was cared for and maintained (or not) IMO is more important than mileage. I would look for the lowest mileage close to stock as possible LS1...if it's got a ton of mods you can assume it's been beat on and had a hard life Plus, you don't want to clean up someone else's basket case with potential issues.
I always go for bone stock anyways. But thanks of course I'll see if it's been beaten on.
Reply
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 07:14 PM
  #35  
chaney1974's Avatar
On The Tree
 
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Amery,WI
Default

I have owned a few lt1's and still do all you need to hit 350hp is headers cat delete 255 fuel pump and a good tune and 350hp is easy. Don't forget to get rid of that stock air box! I recommend a Ls lid conversion
Reply
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 07:20 PM
  #36  
98CayenneT/A's Avatar
TECH Junkie
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Loved
 
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
Default

Originally Posted by chaney1974
I have owned a few lt1's and still do all you need to hit 350hp is headers cat delete 255 fuel pump and a good tune and 350hp is easy. Don't forget to get rid of that stock air box! I recommend a Ls lid conversion
I don't know about that one, 350 to the wheels with exhaust only on a lt1?
Reply
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 08:23 PM
  #37  
Z28soon's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by chaney1974
I have owned a few lt1's and still do all you need to hit 350hp is headers cat delete 255 fuel pump and a good tune and 350hp is easy. Don't forget to get rid of that stock air box! I recommend a Ls lid conversion
350 to the wheels? I meant 350 to the wheels not to the crank.
Reply
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 08:24 PM
  #38  
Z28soon's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
I don't know about that one, 350 to the wheels with exhaust only on a lt1?
Yeah I think he meant 350 to the crank and not the wheels
Reply
Old Mar 26, 2015 | 07:41 AM
  #39  
chaney1974's Avatar
On The Tree
 
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Amery,WI
Default

Originally Posted by Z28soon
Well.... 340 whp sounds like a lot to me going from around 275 bhp (LT1) ... I didn't know these things made that much power non forced inducted.
I never said rear wheel horsepower, but know you opened that can of worms I have ported heads port matched intake with a custom ground crane cam with headers 255 fuel pump and I put down 410 rwhp and it costed me only $1000 and did it all the install myself.
Reply
Old Mar 26, 2015 | 07:43 AM
  #40  
chaney1974's Avatar
On The Tree
 
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Amery,WI
Default

Originally Posted by Z28soon
Yeah I think he meant 350 to the crank and not the wheels
Yes 350 to the crank
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:42 PM.