1.6 Rockers For LT1
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 303
Likes: 1
From: Indianapolis, IN
I don't have any direct experience with Scorpion products other than the Cobra kit car guys I see with the Rousch 427 SBF motors all had them break. Of the dozen or so I see frequently at cruise nights, all had them break. I will add though those SBF 427's likely see higher RPM use & abuse than your motor will
My $02 is you often get what you pay for
The Crane Gold are "narrow body" RR and will fit under the stock valve covers of LT1 without any trimming. Other brands, including the Comps will require some trimming or massaging but it is a simple task to do. I have the Crane Golds 1:6 on a 355 LT1 carb motor I have with iron heads and a 227 Crane cam. I did have screw in studs put in the iron heads though
My $02 also is to use NSA RR on motors that will see high RPM, that's all. Do many run SA, yes. Their choice but not mine. You will get various opinions on internet forums so take what you want.
your goal with just a hot cam SA's will be fine...but get a good valve spring
My $02 is you often get what you pay for
The Crane Gold are "narrow body" RR and will fit under the stock valve covers of LT1 without any trimming. Other brands, including the Comps will require some trimming or massaging but it is a simple task to do. I have the Crane Golds 1:6 on a 355 LT1 carb motor I have with iron heads and a 227 Crane cam. I did have screw in studs put in the iron heads though
My $02 also is to use NSA RR on motors that will see high RPM, that's all. Do many run SA, yes. Their choice but not mine. You will get various opinions on internet forums so take what you want.
your goal with just a hot cam SA's will be fine...but get a good valve spring
TECH Regular
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 467
Likes: 2
From: Lincoln NE
You don't need to save up for nice set of crane roller rockers. Any set will do just fine for you! Yes, just get a set for any small block chevy. Really don't put too much more thought into this, it is a lot more simple than you are making yourself think it is.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 303
Likes: 1
From: Indianapolis, IN
That's a great deal, but unfortunately im not going to be doing rockers just yet. I still have to finish gathering parts for my longtube install.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 772
Likes: 0
From: Bahrain
How well do less expensive full roller aluminum alternatives (scorpion, proform, summit brand) stack up to the crane golds? Particularly these scorpions:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...make/chevrolet
They seem nice and they are made in the U.S. and they are MUCH cheaper than the crane golds.
Also, I could not find the Comp Ultra Pro Mag's for the LT1. When I searched for them, I did find these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1618-16/overview/
They say that they are for a gen I small block. Will thse work on an LT1? If not, does anyone know the part number that will?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...make/chevrolet
They seem nice and they are made in the U.S. and they are MUCH cheaper than the crane golds.
Also, I could not find the Comp Ultra Pro Mag's for the LT1. When I searched for them, I did find these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1618-16/overview/
They say that they are for a gen I small block. Will thse work on an LT1? If not, does anyone know the part number that will?
Been using the self aligning version of both the Pro Magnums for 7 years now, and the Ultra Pro Magnums for 5. I run them with a CC503.
If you plan to further modify your engine, as many have advised the NSA 7/16" stud version with ARP 7/16" rocker studs and guide plates are the way to go.
I had an incident where a rocker arm jumped off the valve tip and kept hitting the spring retainer damaging the self-aligning tabs on the rocker arm (the poly-lock loosened up). I replaced that rocker arm with an Ultra Pro Magnum (Pro Magnums were discontinued) and never had it happen ever since, even though now I spin the bottom end to 6600 regularly where when that happened I used to shift at only 6100 (ARP bottom end now).
Last edited by ADM; Mar 30, 2015 at 12:50 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 303
Likes: 1
From: Indianapolis, IN
The Comp Cam Ultra Pro Magnum 1618-16 will directly fit on the LT1. They now supersede the Pro Magnum 1318-16 rocker arms.
Been using the self aligning version of both the Pro Magnums for 7 years now, and the Ultra Pro Magnums for 5. I run them with a CC503.
If you plan to further modify your engine, as many have advised the NSA 7/16" stud version with ARP 7/16" rocker studs and guide plates are the way to go.
I had an incident where a rocker arm jumped off the valve tip and kept hitting the spring retainer damaging the self-aligning tabs on the rocker arm (the poly-lock loosened up). I replaced that rocker arm with an Ultra Pro Magnum (Pro Magnums were discontinued) and never had it happen ever since, even though now I spin the bottom end to 6600 regularly where when that happened I used to shift at only 6100 (ARP bottom end now).
Been using the self aligning version of both the Pro Magnums for 7 years now, and the Ultra Pro Magnums for 5. I run them with a CC503.
If you plan to further modify your engine, as many have advised the NSA 7/16" stud version with ARP 7/16" rocker studs and guide plates are the way to go.
I had an incident where a rocker arm jumped off the valve tip and kept hitting the spring retainer damaging the self-aligning tabs on the rocker arm (the poly-lock loosened up). I replaced that rocker arm with an Ultra Pro Magnum (Pro Magnums were discontinued) and never had it happen ever since, even though now I spin the bottom end to 6600 regularly where when that happened I used to shift at only 6100 (ARP bottom end now).
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 772
Likes: 0
From: Bahrain
I use Comp Cam Hi-Tech pushrods 7940-16.
The Ultra Pro Magnums are lighter than the Pro Magnums but I doubt you could tell the difference.
If you don't intend to go towards an aggressive build in future, better off buying the Pro Magnum 1318-16 kit offered to you by lt1-xjs and the money you save can be put towards the pushrods.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 633
Likes: 4
From: Phoenix, AZ
Damn! I remember buying my Pro Mags from Combination Motorsports for $240 back in the day. Its been a while since I looked at valve train prices! I have about 20k on them and have never had an issue. Any quality brand will be fine for your needs, I'm a fan of both Crane and Comp.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 303
Likes: 1
From: Indianapolis, IN
Comp Cams 26918 Beehive valve springs. There are definitely better valve springs now for the task, but they have been sufficient for my setup. I use the 3/8" stud version of the rocker arms with ARP rocker studs.
I use Comp Cam Hi-Tech pushrods 7940-16.
The Ultra Pro Magnums are lighter than the Pro Magnums but I doubt you could tell the difference.
If you don't intend to go towards an aggressive build in future, better off buying the Pro Magnum 1318-16 kit offered to you by lt1-xjs and the money you save can be put towards the pushrods.
I use Comp Cam Hi-Tech pushrods 7940-16.
The Ultra Pro Magnums are lighter than the Pro Magnums but I doubt you could tell the difference.
If you don't intend to go towards an aggressive build in future, better off buying the Pro Magnum 1318-16 kit offered to you by lt1-xjs and the money you save can be put towards the pushrods.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 367
Likes: 5
From: connecticut
OP
if your mod list is going to stop with just adding 1:6 RR and "maybe" the Hot cam then stock 3/8" SA RR like Crane Gold (narrow body) aluminum or Comp Ultra Pro Mag (steel) in SA will be fine using stock PR
But....if your mod list will later grow to head work and a bigger cam I would just get 7/16 ARP rocker studs, 7/16 Comp Ultras. TrickFlo Chromalloy hardened PR in 7.200" length with .080 thick walls and some ISKY adjustable guide plates now. Note cam and headwork later will likely require a different length PR (shorter) so you would have to measure PR length when you get to that stage
SA RR are OK for motors that won't spin much above 5700 RPM. Past that NSA with guide plates are recommended as SA RR can "come off" the valve stem at high RPM, especially with springs not up to the task.
The LT4 valve springs are "OK" with a stock cam...for a mild cam though you should consider something like the Alex spring kit for LT1 AL head.
Crane makes a valve spring compressor that allows you to do both intake & exhaust spring per cyl and is easier to get to cyl 7 & 8 also vs the typical screw type hand compressors when swapping springs on heads with motor in car.
You will need new valve stem seals. FelPro Viton are good.
Valve spring swap is not a basic job and you need to pay attention to what order and procedure you follow to do the swap. Get a pen magnet to help keep the locks from falling and stuff rags/something in the holes of head incase you drop one
if your mod list is going to stop with just adding 1:6 RR and "maybe" the Hot cam then stock 3/8" SA RR like Crane Gold (narrow body) aluminum or Comp Ultra Pro Mag (steel) in SA will be fine using stock PR
But....if your mod list will later grow to head work and a bigger cam I would just get 7/16 ARP rocker studs, 7/16 Comp Ultras. TrickFlo Chromalloy hardened PR in 7.200" length with .080 thick walls and some ISKY adjustable guide plates now. Note cam and headwork later will likely require a different length PR (shorter) so you would have to measure PR length when you get to that stage
SA RR are OK for motors that won't spin much above 5700 RPM. Past that NSA with guide plates are recommended as SA RR can "come off" the valve stem at high RPM, especially with springs not up to the task.
The LT4 valve springs are "OK" with a stock cam...for a mild cam though you should consider something like the Alex spring kit for LT1 AL head.
Crane makes a valve spring compressor that allows you to do both intake & exhaust spring per cyl and is easier to get to cyl 7 & 8 also vs the typical screw type hand compressors when swapping springs on heads with motor in car.
You will need new valve stem seals. FelPro Viton are good.
Valve spring swap is not a basic job and you need to pay attention to what order and procedure you follow to do the swap. Get a pen magnet to help keep the locks from falling and stuff rags/something in the holes of head incase you drop one
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2019
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