LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Building a Turbo LT1

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Old May 14, 2015 | 03:48 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by SwampWS6
I wouldnt say you have to have $20k to do a turbo LT1. Im thinking $15k or less. Depends on your rearend you choose. My motor was about $6k alone, hotside was custom at about $1k and turbo $1300. But I wheeled and dealed on a lot of parts. You can save a lot of money by doing things yourself if your competent enough.
I wasn't saying any turbo build would likely cost over 20K....just one that actually makes over 800 RWHP and will stay in one piece doing it for years to come; a top notch built transmission, driveshaft, rear end, dyno tune, suspension adds up. As mentioned, cost usually increases exponentially with HP. How much HP is your's making?

Most of the 1000 FWHP builds I have seen around here have 20-30K+ invested....consider yourself skilled at bargain hunting!
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Old May 14, 2015 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ahritchie
I wasn't saying any turbo build would likely cost over 20K....just one that actually makes over 800 RWHP and will stay in one piece doing it for years to come; a top notch built transmission, driveshaft, rear end, dyno tune, suspension adds up. As mentioned, cost usually increases exponentially with HP. How much HP is your's making?

Most of the 1000 FWHP builds I have seen around here have 20-30K+ invested....consider yourself skilled at bargain hunting!
Agreed. Lol. I hope to be 800rwhp. No offense, but if Im gonna be $20k+ in, I'll just go LS (I hate saying that). Cause $ for $ LS would be cheaper in the long run. But like the young man that went 4.77 in the 1/8th with a LT1 a couple years back with a F1X pro charger, that must be an amazing feeling to do that with a LT1. And I just wonder how close is he to having a $100k setup?
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Old May 14, 2015 | 04:19 PM
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An x275 car has more than 20-30k in his chassis, let alone motor...

Building a 800whp car is a lot different than building a 800whp car that can be raced.

Cheap, fast, reliable. You know the drill.
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Old May 14, 2015 | 08:45 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by SwampWS6
Agreed. Lol. I hope to be 800rwhp. No offense, but if Im gonna be $20k+ in, I'll just go LS (I hate saying that). Cause $ for $ LS would be cheaper in the long run. But like the young man that went 4.77 in the 1/8th with a LT1 a couple years back with a F1X pro charger, that must be an amazing feeling to do that with a LT1. And I just wonder how close is he to having a $100k setup?
He recently went 4.72.

Honestly the price gap motor to motor isn't as big once you get into real big power. For bolt-ons or our peasant H/C builds the LS is better dollar for dollar. Once you get into the race motors though the gap closes a lot. We use our factory blocks for 1k hp not only since we have no other choice but luckily it is strong as hell. LS guys swap to aftermarket blocks at the 1k hp mark which is a few grand right there. They have MUCH better native head selection, and we can easily run nasty rolled angle SBC race heads but then need to pay both for a conversion and then for custom pistons ($$$).

No matter what you have it won't be cheap to make that kind of power, but I bet if you price a 1k hp LS and a 1k hp LT1 it won't be as big of a difference as you may expect. If we had that damn aftermarket block we were promised then the gap would be even smaller. 434 LT1 with SB2.2s and custom pistons will make 800 flywheel NA on pump gas lmao.
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Old May 15, 2015 | 03:35 AM
  #25  
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I've been 11.30. The reason why I am looking to do this build is to build 1 motor over the course of a year or so then build a tranny and buy a rear.
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Old May 15, 2015 | 08:59 PM
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So after all the input from everybody on here about the turbo build I really am not looking to spend that kinda money honestly. So I think it's gonna be a Forged 383ci with a Nitrous Outlets Wet Plate Kit with a 200 shot on it. Do u guys think I should buy the internals separately or buy a Eagle Forged Rotating Assembly?
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Old May 16, 2015 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 94LTZ
I run a front mount 76mm with a 383 stroker that has a 24x ignition. It's not cheap to do right, my cooling system has easily $1,500 in it alone.

Who is building the hot side?
Please explain.
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Old May 18, 2015 | 01:13 AM
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Maybe not exactly $1,500 but over 1k.

Griffin radiator
Dual Deral pusher fans
Custom brackets welded to the radiator to mount the fans
CSR Water pump
Water pump has been milled and welded
Stainless coolant hoses

I would say I've got about $1,200-1,300 in it.

Is that a good enough answer?
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Old May 18, 2015 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 94LTZ
Maybe not exactly $1,500 but over 1k.

Griffin radiator
Dual Deral pusher fans
Custom brackets welded to the radiator to mount the fans
CSR Water pump
Water pump has been milled and welded
Stainless coolant hoses

I would say I've got about $1,200-1,300 in it.

Is that a good enough answer?
Yes, and now we wait for his epic response as to why you should have stayed with the more efficient stock OEM setup.
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Old May 18, 2015 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by shownomercy
yes, and now we wait for his epic response as to why you should have stayed with the more efficient stock oem setup.
lmao
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Old May 18, 2015 | 12:50 PM
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Lmfao
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Old May 18, 2015 | 05:00 PM
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You guys make fun but he states how much he had to spend on cooling........................................... .......... and bought the second lowest flowing pump he could find.............................................. .................
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Old May 18, 2015 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
You guys make fun but he states how much he had to spend on cooling........................................... .......... and bought the second lowest flowing pump he could find.............................................. .................
I never said it was a good choice, I just said you would be quick to tell him how he did it all wrong.
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Old May 18, 2015 | 07:19 PM
  #34  
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Leave it 96 to tell every one they are doing something wrong.

Sorry we can't all have your wisdom sir. Guess I'll just have to live with my bad choice that has never gave me any cooling issues what so ever over 7 years.
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Old May 23, 2015 | 09:45 PM
  #35  
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I am doing an LT1 turbo. Everything that is stated is true. It ain't cheap. Swamped hit the nail on the head I was going to.

Doing a turbo LT1 from scratch is really silly. In my case I already had a forged motor and very high dollar parts invested in many things I needed, so not as expensive at this point for me. But starting from scratch, there are guys buying the LS 5.3 liter truck engines for $500, then buying cheap turbos like BW that are very cheap but reliable and powerful, then you g cheaper by just turning around the truck manifolds for a lot of the hot side and BAM, 800-1000 RWHP and done for a fraction of the cost an LT1 would take to get there. You still are going to spend in other mods like a fuel system, and other items. But its not going to be $15k-$20k like doing it in the LT1. So, unless you are rich, and just want to prove a point doing it for an LT1, I say go with an LSX for the boost.

Or you can go the cheap fast route and do the nitrous plate like planned.
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Old May 24, 2015 | 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedJunkee
I am doing an LT1 turbo. Everything that is stated is true. It ain't cheap. Swamped hit the nail on the head I was going to.

Doing a turbo LT1 from scratch is really silly. In my case I already had a forged motor and very high dollar parts invested in many things I needed, so not as expensive at this point for me. But starting from scratch, there are guys buying the LS 5.3 liter truck engines for $500, then buying cheap turbos like BW that are very cheap but reliable and powerful, then you g cheaper by just turning around the truck manifolds for a lot of the hot side and BAM, 800-1000 RWHP and done for a fraction of the cost an LT1 would take to get there. You still are going to spend in other mods like a fuel system, and other items. But its not going to be $15k-$20k like doing it in the LT1. So, unless you are rich, and just want to prove a point doing it for an LT1, I say go with an LSX for the boost.

Or you can go the cheap fast route and do the nitrous plate like planned.
You're not slapping an eBay turbo on a junkyard 5.3 and making 800rwhp like magic. You still need heads, cam, fuel system, tuning, trans to hold that power, rear, etc. Once you get to that point LS vs LT price gap shrinks.

Maybe ~500-600rwhp on the "cheap" where you can reuse a lot of parts, but 800+ will cost you no matter what motor you go with.
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Old May 24, 2015 | 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Puck
You're not slapping an eBay turbo on a junkyard 5.3 and making 800rwhp like magic. You still need heads, cam, fuel system, tuning, trans to hold that power, rear, etc. Once you get to that point LS vs LT price gap shrinks.

Maybe ~500-600rwhp on the "cheap" where you can reuse a lot of parts, but 800+ will cost you no matter what motor you go with.
You don't need heads or a cam to do that with (although yes other items are needed). There are lots of guys running plenty of power on the stock 5.3 without aftermarket heads or cam.
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Old May 24, 2015 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedJunkee
You don't need heads or a cam to do that with (although yes other items are needed). There are lots of guys running plenty of power on the stock 5.3 without aftermarket heads or cam.
Show me the stock longblock 800-1000rwhp junkyard 5.3s.

I know they make good power, but it seems every month or two its another 50-100hp more. Its the most overhyped motor in existence right now...Unicorn status.

The short blocks are damn near bulletproof, which is where the popularity came from...not the heads and cam. Work the heads and stuff a nice cam in there? Then you can get your 800+hp.

Don't forget its a SMALL motor, with heads that are not very impressive as-cast (although they have tons of potential), and a baby cam. You're not magically gaining 500+hp with an ebay turbo and a few lbs of boost on that setup.

I've researched the swap. The first ~600rwhp is easy, much easier and cheaper then an LT1...but after that you're changing enough stuff that the motor you start with isn't a big deal anymore. SBC, LT1, LS1, SBF, etc are all going to cost a lot to make 800-1k rwhp.
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Old May 24, 2015 | 01:19 PM
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LSX turbo is easier, and cheaper.

You can get junkyard manifolds that actually flow and have a cheap *** turbo kit for well under anything remotely decent in LT1 land.

SBE JY stuff is one thing, but lets not forget you can get some nasty displacements in LSX land. Ironically seems to be ~370ci motors that do the most work in LSX lego land.

I would be curious is SBE JY stuff has more or the same level of head clamping as a LT1. I know the 4 bolt stuff has issues with lifting heads from to much cylinder pressure.

Either way, doing it RIGHT, is expensive.
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Old May 24, 2015 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Puck
Show me the stock longblock 800-1000rwhp junkyard 5.3s.

.
There are plenty. silver_82 just for example is running a bone stock 5.3. Stock heads and all, and he's pushing over 1,000 RWHP mark and running 8 second quarter mile times. Don't think it's reliable? He races most weekends, and he is not going through blocks.
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