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Hello all, quick question. It seems that some idiot decided something was more important in her glove box than watching the road and side swiped my car. The over all damage dosent look to bad, but it looks like her front rim hooked my front rim and shoved it forward. I don't really want to jack it up to inspect it before the adjuster comes. I did see through the spokes of the rim that the steering linkage was bent and possibly rod end broke. My question is this, since the tire is touching the front of the wheel well, could the k-member be shifted? Or just the steering knuckle just be toast? I've checked the KBB value of my car and due the mileage, 170,000, I am afraid they will want to total it. I know I can fix the ft suspension, but if the k-member is shifted or bent will it be worth it?
Replacing the K member shouldn't be to hard. More than likely it's fine, Most times something else will give first. If they total the car just find out how much less money you will get if you keep the car. Most of the time it's cheap enough that it makes sense to fix it yourself or part it out / sell it yourself for more money.
Thanks for the input. Its killing me not to jack it up and take a look, especially on a long week end. I'm not a patient person when it comes to my toys.....
Is there a way to check the k-member, other than just to look at it?
Thanks for the input. Its killing me not to jack it up and take a look, especially on a long week end. I'm not a patient person when it comes to my toys.....
Is there a way to check the k-member, other than just to look at it?
Your K-member may not be bent......Is the right side wheel/tire also pointing to the right? If not, I'd guess that the rack most likely be busted out, however, it's very possible that the lower a-arm got pulled all the way forward on the rear (caster) adjustment bolt. Take a look at the rear a-arm mount, and see if it's been slid out to the limit of it's travel...
It's probably going to get totaled out. It would probably be in your best interest to have the adjuster total it because the car will never be the same if repaired with insurance money alone. Good work isn't cheap, especially body/paint.
I would buy it back, hold onto some parts, and part out the rest. Then use that money to get something with lower mileage.
Just looking at the picture of the wheel, I think the tie rod for the steering rack and or the steering rack is going to have trouble.
Is the wheel on the other side turned the same direction?
Also, the wheel is leaning top out. The bottom A-arm is a much stouter piece than the upper A-arm. Hopefully, the upper arm sheared(without damaging the mounting points) or gave way and left the lower A-arm and k-member without damage.
Just have to get under it to see what you find. Heck, it may just look that way due to the deflated tire.
I hate it that it happened. That is what sucks about having an older car in great/good shape. Something happens, through no fault of your own, and all of a sudden you may not have a ride.
If you have recent pics documenting the shape of the car prior to the hit they can help.
A older lady rear ended my brother's 1999 V6 Camaro. Totaled it....back end was in rough shape. He had close to 160,000 on it. However, due to the engine swap we did on it(29,000 miles on the new engine). He got alot more money on it.
..... That is what sucks about having an older car in great/good shape. Something happens, through no fault of your own, and all of a sudden you may not have a ride.
The passenger side wheel is straight, the rack was loose before this and was on my to do list this summer. it sux it happened, but I guess it could have been worse. Thanks for all the insight guys. Gonna jack it up this afternoon and get a parts list going!
The insurance company is going to get the value of your car based on the year and mileage. So because your car is high mileage they will probably total it based off the cost to fix compared to the value of the car.
Looks like the lower control arm and inner tie rod at a minimum. Strut is probably bent as well. You should find similar vehicles in surrounding areas with similar mods, options, etc and use their asking price to justify the true value of the car over what they will offer you. They are going to low ball you so be ready ahead of time. They do it with wranglers all of the time but they are worth much more than what is offered. Don't be afraid of the adjuster, their insured hit you.
Well, the insurance tango has begun. Adjuster called me yesterday and scheduled the car to be taken to their inspection facility. But, still waiting towing company to schedule pickup. They have up to 72 hours to pick it up ya me.......
I did jack it up last night and finally get some picts
Front pict of LCA
Rear mounting bolt of K Member
Is the sway bar bent, looks like it. The tie rod end is totally shot.
Rear K member bolt
FT K Member mounting bolt
Rear LCA
Caliper, notice the pads not hooking on bracket. New Steering knuckle?
I am concered about the rear K-Member mounting bolt, it looks like the force of the impact may have distorted it a bit. However, the front bolt looks ok. Also the rear LCA bushing looks toast, so I am thinking of at least replacing upper and lower control arms with tubular ones, and if I use adjustable one would I be able to compensate for any K-Member problem at the rear? Because of the way the brake pads are, should I replace knuckle and caliper bracket? Oh and I did NOT paint the calipers and pads...... Total brake job was in the works this summer.
Last edited by xblazermnx; May 28, 2015 at 08:21 PM.
How do the other 4 k member mounting bolts look (the center one on the drivers side and the 3 on the passenger side)? If those look like the front drivers side one, the k member is likely bent, if they look like the rear drivers, it likely just shifted. In either case it needs to be addressed as your engine is out of alignment. Also check your rear transmission cross member.
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Side Swiped 
