nice 350 block bord .60 over just machined ready for assembly . 2 bolt main . 1 piece rear main seal . stamped 5.7 block 150 obo

that's the ad, its local to me, is .60 to much? Lloyds trick flo heads and cam would be going on it, this would be used for my 93 Camaro 383 build.
thanks for the help! hopfully the pics come out good

 

Do it

 

awesome thanks!

 

sbc 350 4 bolt main .060 over - $125

Selling a disassembled 350 4 bolt main. its .060 over, will need work. it is the complete short block, just taken apart. has stock rods, stock crank with summit racing flat top pistons with -4cc reliefs.

there is also this one on there, no pics, but its a 4 bolt main, the other is 2 bolt main. im not sure the difference but I have heard that 4 is better?

 

The 4 bolt main is considered to handle more horsepower because the caps have more holding power due to the extra hardware. But, you have to remember that drilling and tapping into the block also weakens it. Factory 4 bolts usually hold more power before breaking, but whether you need it or not is the question. If they are the same price or if the 4 bolt is cheaper, get the 4 bolt pending what work is needed of course. How much horsepower are you planning to make?

You building an LT1 I assume? Are those LT1 blocks?

Off topic. I just saw your sig. You may want to read up on those claims.

 

If your 93 is an LT1 then that block aint gonna work.

 

my car is a lt1. what one wont work? the one with pics or the 4 bolt?

 

somewhere in the 400hp range would be nice! trick flo 21 degree heads from Lloyd and a custom cam going in it, going forged on everything that I can.

 

You need an LT1 specific block, they are slightly different than gen 1 SBC. You doing a 383 with those heads?

 

OP, Craigslist ads are as bad for you as vaccines, Pepsi, Mcdonalds, and the evil all seeing government......COMBINED!....I've heard people have been killed and scammed with eagle cast crankshafts from that devilish website...true story! Spread the word!

 

ok, ill steer clear from them blocks. its a good thing i am doing a new motor, my car just started knocking yesterday, i got it back from the body shop, they have had it for like a month replacing the bad spots in the floor, well it ran fine on the way home, then i was like well im going to check the oil, it was a qaurt low. so i went to the pit stop bought some cheap 5w30 and put it in ran it for a little while and when i got home it was knocking slightly. so i assume i should change it with full synthetic and maybe it will stop.

 

Oil is oil, if its knocking synthetic wont stop it.

You need an LT1 block, normal 350 won't fit.

 

OP, the easiest way to tell gen 1 and gen 2 apart is to look at the water pump holes. There will be 3 bolts and 2 openings per side on the LT1.

 

I think that should just let a mechanic repair your car. You do not have even most basic knowledge of car repair or mechanical operation. Serious. Just trying to save a lot of frustration and money.

 

I don't know about that one. In his other thread his mechanic convinced him to install a high torque starter (never mind that those are stock on these cars, it's like the whole Corvette servo thing).........

I think he's better off asking his questions here and learning. These cars are a rare dying breed and most places have no idea what they are doing when it comes to the LT1.

I will say, OP, slow down and learn a LOT before you start ripping stuff apart. Or, buy a pre-built LT1 short block 383 and bolt it in with your LE Trickflow package. And yes, you will NEED a 12 Bolt, 9 inch, or S60 plus all the suspension and chassis work to go with it. With what I see you have planned, your car is going to be an absolute beast. That Fox body won't stand a chance, neither will 90% of the cars on the road.

Don't forget you'll also need full exhaust, trans re-built (upgraded for the additional power) with a much better clutch, injectors, gaskets, tuning, fuel pump (and other upgrades like the hot wire kit), etc. etc. etc.

And TIRES, you will need really good tires. That much power without traction control is down right dangerous, especially if you have only driven 300fwhp max before (not sure on your driving experience). But with the power you are looking at making to the ground, very experienced drivers have had that bite them. Tires will help control that.

One more thing, BRAKES. The stock brakes are tiny little suckers. Even the 1998+ V-6 cars have bigger brakes (easy swap too). For drag racing at the track the stock brakes are adequate. But, street/road/autocross/any other type of racing will require bigger stronger brakes.

Remember, you're building a car not just the engine. All the power in the world is useless if you can't get it to the ground and control it.

Most recommendations are to first know your budget and goals, then build it out on paper. The start with brakes, then chassis/axle/suspension, then trans, then engine, then body and interior.

 

Thank you everyone for the help! I called up Jegs today, they suggested with my Lloyd Elliot head and cam package to bore my block .30 over and put this rotating assembly in . http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/m20ProductDisplayView?catalogId=10002&langId=-1&productId=2856158&storeId=10001

What does everyone think? My concern is the rods are 5.7" don't I want 6"?

 

Seems like a good kit.
Crank is 4340
Rods are H-beams, 4340, 7/16" ARP 8740s
Pistons are flat top 4032 Mahles (with rings)
Bearings???

If this is a NA motor then 6" rods would be better. Use p/n 12111030. I'd order from CNC and get the ARP 2000 rod bolt upgrade (http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/eagle...p-pistons.html).

 

Agreed. OP, don't forget to get matching pistons for the longer rod. But with the longer rods, you'll get less side load and more dwell time so easier to tune and longer lasting. Also, you can check out Ohio Crankshaft stuff. I've no personal experience with them, but have heard nothing but great things from them.

 

I will say I'm impressed someone from Jegs or Summit recommended a 4340 kit and not an eagle cast kit.

OP, always be wary of recommendations given to you from someone who will profit by you sliding your card. I'm happy to see you ran it by a forum first, too often people bypass that step and only come here to complain it didn't work. Forums are great resources for just that, giving an unbiased opinion on things since no members see profit on your success or failure, we just like seeing fellow enthusiasts succeed and keeping the hobby and LTx platform alive.

You might not need a full rebuild though, I would hold off on buying anything until the motor is apart and you have tallied up a budget. You might get away with just turning the crank and new bearings. A 383 requires a big budget to do correctly.

 

Listen, look, research and save a lot of money....