Right when I got on the highway (5 mins from my house) it was also 190....190 is my "standard" cruising operating temp if it's 90 degrees or less; maybe 180 if it's cold outside. if it's really hot 100+ yeah...it will continue to heat to 210 after 5-10 mins on the highway then level off at 210ish. But I recall when I had the MWP (over 100K put on by me) it was also more sensitive to outside temp than most cars (such as my LS1 that runs 210 no matter what the outside temp is -20 or 100+) and had more coolant temp fluctuation in general. Bottom line I don't have a good comparison; plus mine's a 383 which I would imagine has to produce slightly more heat/friction due to increased .25" stroke and more CR, and I'm running 4.10's with the 6spd which gets the RPMS up quite a bit higher than stock at cruising speed, so mine should be quite a bit stressed more than most; and I've got the "baby" non HD 43 GPH version. It's still not a problem, I would like to take mine to a real racetrack (one with left and right turns ) to find out for sure if overheating is an issue with flogging it for any length of time....but lacking funds at the moment for proper tires/brakes/track time fees $$$. I can't get it to overheat with street flogging however!

Also I have a 160 stat and fans tuned to come on early FWIW.

 

Thermostat is broken. Your argument is now irrelevant. Shut it, man-crush.

 

Probably not.

Again there's more to it than the water pump. That doesn't change the EWP having less cooling capacity than the mechanical. You obviously don't need the additional capacity.

 

I've noticed the same thing, the LT1's do fluctuate temps more than most other cars do. I wonder if it's due to the reverse cooling.

It seems your ambient temps are comparable to mine. What's your rwhp?

The commotion is about the EWP having limitations. Some don't want to admit that.

FWIW, my daily commute is 110 miles, 75% highway.

Would an EWP work for my daily commute? Absolutely. Would it work for what I want to do to my car? Probably not, I don't want to risk it.

 

And what do you want to do with your car?

 

I'll be joining NASA later this year. Doing a dual core rad in about a month, then doing the corvette hub swap. I already did the LS1 brake swap, but may do the Corvette brakes when I do the hubs or I might see how the LS1 brakes hold up first. It should be ready enough to put down some laps then.

 

Sounds like a perfect opportunity to get some real results then. Run a mech. WP and log the data, swap in an EWP and see what happens at the track.

 

BLS and I can't log OAT, short of showing IAT, which should track with OAT. (on my truck it settles to ~5* of ambient when cruising no throttle)

 

Talk about poor reading comprehension and understanding. You literally just said yourself that OTHER VARIABLES could be contributing to the raised temp. YOU said that right here. But you still claim this blanket statement of an ewp will result in raised coolant temps. HOW THE **** DOES THAT MAKE SENSE?!?!?!?!

No you haven't. That is partly what started this. Maybe its your poor vocabulary, poor presentation, or opinionated ramblings and blanket statements that created the misunderstandings?

So you are claiming that for 20 years and 155k+ miles, your car ran without the orings installed on either spline? You are claiming gm never put them on at the factory? Or are you trying to save face here because you overlooked them and it led to the demise of both the coupler and water pump? Just trying to separate fact from fiction.


As I said before, within the context of this thread, my blanket statement is 100% fact. You don't have to admit this, it is known

As far as my car goes, it sits on my lot. It gets moved around here and there. It was in the midst of a catfish conversion but thankfully I stopped wasting money on it and decided to set myself up for future success (read:mature). I could and do throw a jump box on it and it usually starts within the first 2 cranks. The whole unlearned tables thing makes it idle cool! But come on man, you are hear spouting **** off about race tracks and corners and your **** doesn't even do that!?! That is the lulz of the day

You have no facts. You have been asked to present them multiple times to no avail. You are like a teenage girl crying for attention, wanting to be perceived as always right. Get some real world experience before you spew out more bs.

 

You could always just look at the weather app. It doesn't have to be spot accurate.

Sounds like a bad idea. You do realize that swapping back from EWP to MWP is more difficult right? I'm not doing that. Nor am I spending any money on a part with know reported cooling issues due to it's flow and pressure limitations.

If I decide to make my car a street/strip machine, I'll throw one in.

Hey, Let's look at ahrithchie. He just stated that if Temps are over 100° his car will heat up on the highway to 210. My car ALWAYS cools down on the highway, ALWAYS. He's got a better radiator and EWP. Now WHY, with a better rest of the cooling system would he HEAT UP while in a scenario that has the BEST cooling for any reason?

It's not poor reading comprehension, BMX. It's called actual comprehension. Troubleshooting. You are the guy that replaces the Opti to NOT fix the problem. You tell others to replace the Opti only for it to NOT fix their problem.

Yes I did. Stop skimming and read! You're so twisted with your OPINION of my position on EWP's it's ridiculous. You've manipulated what I've said because you didn't actually pay attention to everything I've said. Stop, breathe, relax, your blind hatred has led you to a pretty dark place. This conversation extends beyond you and your little imaginary world. Pay attention to everything else.


Are you seriously so dumb founded that you can't use a little bit of logic to figure this out all on your own? What did I say? Let's stick to that. I'm not going to ASSUME anything, like you are. Nor am I going to manipulate what has been said, like you are. Grow up.

Maybe it's hard for you to see a car with such a "complex" and "inferior" part last so much longer than your "simple" and "=win" part. But it's not the only one to go that long nor that many miles.

Your blanket statement is your OPINION. My response was based on factual information that doesn't agree with your OPINION. Now you're all butt hurt because you can't be wrong.


I drive my car daily, 110 miles every day 5 days a week. Your car collects dust. I don't need a jump box or 2 cranks to start it, I just start it and drive. My car doesn't to road races yet, no. It does do corners, more often than you think.

"(read: mature)" Really dude? Look at your posts here and tell me how much you've matured. That's too funny. Most people of maturity don't do what you have been doing for the past 14 pages. Looks like you got more maturing to do there hoss.

The facts have been presented. Multiple times, you are just ignoring them because they are inconvenient to your opinion. EWP users (multiple - 3 now in this thread) have reported raised (higher, elevated, greater, etc) coolant temps on the highway. Did I say all of them? No. Did I say all the time? No. I said it happens and only to EWP users. Now you use deductive reasoning and tell me what the common denominator is.


Let's do this. Let's change the tone here. No more personal attacks. I'll stop at least.

You have an EWP and a "running" car right? Data log some stop and go driving then get on the highway for 30 minutes and post it up. Maybe You all can prove my understanding of physics wrong with some real proof that it doesn't happen to ANY EWP car ever at all. Because it doesn't happen to MWP cars......

 

If this counts The Richard, The Richard is going to withdraw because testing was not done with the same setups. Had mechanical with stock cid. Used electric with 396. It's possible the temps were raised due to more cid.

 

No. I'm talking about coolant temps from stop and go to highway cruising. The temps at highway cruising should be the lowest because of the constant low hp and high airflow. EWP's do better in stop and go than MWP's, but they start to show their limitations on some vehicles at highway cruising and on other vehicles at a higher rpm than that.

 

No, with electric the cruise temp rises even with stock cubes.

 

No no no, the bigger the engine the hotter it runs, duh! It has nothing to do with thermal efficiency. That's why 2.0L 4 bangers run cooler........

/sarcasm

 

You now trying to start **** with me?

 

Don't know if you're serious or not...... But why would I? I have no reason. My response to 96capricemgr had nothing to do with you specifically, or anyone else for that matter.

Displacement has little effect on coolant temp. The more power an engine makes the more heat it will produce. I'm sure that 396 has a lot more power than the 350 he replaced it with. At least that's how I read it.

I care not about comparing two different engines. I'm addressing the exact same car in different driving conditions that have results that are abnormal due to the limitations of the part used.

 

Oh dear. I'm going to get out while I can...

 

Brushless for automotive accessory use is coming very soon. The government smog credits for ozone reduction manufactures will receive make this a done deal.

 

Cool, thanks for the info!

 

I ran a electric pump on stock engine to my custom cam, head work, full bolt on,373 gears, built and stalled auto as a DD and regularly took it on hour plus drives. I never noticed a any cooling issues, if it went up it was maybe 5-10 degrees, never ran a stock pump on it.