LE cam choice???
LE cam choice??? Which cam should I go with for a street driven m6 Lt1 ? I want LE1 heads and have a goal of 350rwhp and for it to be very streetable.
1st cam- 215/227 .546/.565, 111LSA
2nd choice- 223/231 .557/.571, 112LSA.
I would like the car to trap 110mph+ and be 12 sec capable. Of course I would have headers, CAI and such. I trap 101 right now with manifolds, and just a cai, tb bypass, and airfoil.
1st cam- 215/227 .546/.565, 111LSA
2nd choice- 223/231 .557/.571, 112LSA.
I would like the car to trap 110mph+ and be 12 sec capable. Of course I would have headers, CAI and such. I trap 101 right now with manifolds, and just a cai, tb bypass, and airfoil.
Last edited by 350 groundpounder; Jul 7, 2015 at 11:28 PM.
Either cam will be fine of course the second will be a bit choppier of an idle. Not sure about the horsepower goal but the car should be in the 12's if she's running right.
I would lean towards the latter of the two since you're planning on ported heads. Both would appear to comfortable in a stock headed vehicle and the more aggressive of the two would likely see an even greater separation of power gains over the former with ported heads. I would imagine it would trap closer to 114-116mph given proper tune and supporting mods.
I have the second one in my car. It pulls great and drivability Is awesome. great power throughout the enire power band.The idle is not choppy at all. Look at my LE1 thread a few threads down from this one. There is a video in it at idle.
Thanks for the advice. That would be sweet if it trapped 114 ! I am leaning towards the smaller cam because I want to keep rpm's below 5500. Maybe 5800 tops if at the strip. I hear of to many piece of sh $ t shortblocks spinning bearings over 6000 lol. That's another good point, Do I even need ported heads with the smaller cam? Would that cam even take advantage of the ported heads like a bigger cam would? Dont think I could trap 110mph with the smaller cam with stock heads?
If you're unwilling to rev the engine higher, which I completely understand, you don't really need to do the heads. 'Cam only' should get you the performance you're after. I ran the time in my sig with the Hotcam shifting at 6K, stock heads and bottom end at 125K miles.
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You could always tell Lloyd what rpm you want to rev to and he will spec a cam out for that as well. He did for me and was spot on with. He'll know much better how the cam will operate over any of us.
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I run to 6300 by the factory tach, mid 12s with just boltons, 200+ passes, 10k miles, no issues. I've tried shifting at 5500-6300 in 100-200mph increments and 6300 gives best times and mph. Do the second one and keep it at 6300-6500, and follow the thread I just made about stock shortblock failures.
If you're unwilling to rev the engine higher, which I completely understand, you don't really need to do the heads. 'Cam only' should get you the performance you're after. I ran the time in my sig with the Hotcam shifting at 6K, stock heads and bottom end at 125K miles.
Buf mat- mid 12's is pretty freaking fast for boltons and with a m6. What do you trap? I will be lucky to get mid 13s once I have a tune and headers on. I launch at like 1500 and use the clutch fully when shifting though so, I am a slow *** at 14.2 @ 101 with a head wind lol. I figure better launching with headers tune should get me 13s. With Lloyd's help 12's!
That is until you blow it up. Then you'll wish you never tinkered with it.
1500rpm launch? lolwat. Around 4k seemed to be the sweet spot on radials for me. Release the clutch quickly, don't dump it.
Nitrous could be a good alternative.
1500rpm launch? lolwat. Around 4k seemed to be the sweet spot on radials for me. Release the clutch quickly, don't dump it.
Nitrous could be a good alternative.
Mine is stock minus supporting mods with a 226/232 .592/.592 110lsa LE cam and has about 13k miles with that setup revving to 6300 no probs. Well other than my oil pump drive gear stripping out, but that's not related to cam size. I wish I would've went a tad bigger. I also really would like some LE2's 
.
. That being said revving it to the moon isn't the best course of action for longevity, but even some of the best built and tuned setups will fail at some point, some times much sooner than expected. Hell it seems like almost as many high dollar motors fail as junkyard ones. It's all about risk minimization and mostly luck.
Last edited by myltwon; Jul 8, 2015 at 04:26 PM.
109-111 depending on 60', seemed for me the slower the 60 the higher the trap. The 12.39 was at 109 at a 1.68 60', the 1.8-1.9 60s at 12.5x were 110-111. Spin it to 6300, it's what Shon Herron did for his 11.8, it's what Camaroracing12 did for his 11.99, boltons only can be fast if you spin it to 6300.
What ever cam you pick, just start shifting at what ever RPM you desire, If your not afraid, and want max performance, start shifting at 100-200 increments until your trap speed starts to suffer, DO NOT go by ET, Too may variables...
Bufmat- I would be happy with those trap speeds. You have a well set up car. I did shift at 6000rpm at the strip when I trapped 101mph. Catmaigne- I def need to practice launching at a higher rpm. I was scared of lighting the tires up. Best 60ft was only 2.2. Im sure my car is capable of high 13s right now with a better 60ft and my tune sucks. I think small cam is the way to go for me. I like low- mid range power anyways.
