I want to know if anyone has use this kit before? Just wanting to know if it was good I know the rep eagle has gotten. I'm putting it in a street beast to tear up the track occasionally. Mild to low use of the vehicle, I want to know if anyone thinks it can take a 150 shot or less of NO2 as well?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/es...MobileSwitchNo

 

Im using an Eagle crank and rods. It has been a 10.30 on spray. Id keep looking however. I dont see any problem in an eagle crank, I would try to find some H bea, rods though. also you want a Forged pistion and you should figure your CR before you order them. With my stroker a flat top and a .041 gasket put me around 12.8:1

 

The bad reputation is from the cast eagle cranks, not the forged although it a cheaper line of parts. And I agree, it would be best to have a forged piston as well if you're spraying. Although Hypers can take small shots but are less forgiving. Also, those pistons don't seem ideal anyway. I may be wrong but I think that +12CC means it has a dome which you don't want in an LT1.

 

The eagle forged crank is fine, but I'd look at forged pistons if you want to spray. The factory mahle cast pistons are probably stronger than those, NA that would be ok but 5cc reliefs would be better.

 

Beat me to the punch.

 

Does anyone know if the cast eagle cranks are still having the problems breaking? I'm getting mixed reviews from researching. The machine shop I sent my engine off to has eagle 383 cast, I beam rods with hyper pistons for 500 bucks laying around from other guys who couldn't pay. he says he gets 400 rwhp constantly with this setup.

 

Bottom end doesn't make power.

I would stay away if it were me.

 

Yeah I'm tracking that, I'm getting a custom LE cam, and 1.6Harland rr, full port on stock heads with bigger valves, and springs, full bolt on after that.

 

The only cast crank I would use in an LT1 is the one that comes in them from the factory. The Scat and Eagle cranks are prone to breakage.

Bottom end parts don't make power, that comes from the top end setup. I'd stay away from that machine shop if I were you, sounds like there might be a competence issue.

 

Cast eagle/scat is junk, I know because I sheared one into two piece on a mild, low revving 383 a few years ago. Their forged stuff is plenty strong for most of the setups out there just make sure a competent machine shop balances the rotating assembly since the factory balancing offered by most rotating assembly companies is questionable at best.

If you've ever worked around manufacturing and seen the difference between the average cast metal part vs a forged/machined from solid component you'd understand why outside of a GM cast crank they are to be avoided.

 

If you plan to make any sort of high RPM power, a cast crank is never a good idea no matter the brand. The stock GM crank is a pretty robust unit that many have taken to 500+ FWHP.

 

So stay with the stock crank, B&B everything with ARP and call it a day? might just she'll out 1800, then push 200-300 shot. Thanks for the help I don't want to do this again. One time and done.

 

If you wanted to stick with a 355 yes the stock crank is a great piece.

Here's a stock gm crank doing some work

 

Displacement is the most expensive way to add power. It is the thing newb want do do first but in reality about the last thing worth doing.

Doing it cheap costs more in the longrun, what happens when **** bottomend or machining lets go and mangles the heads you put money into that actually make power.

100% of air comes and goes through the heads, the gains had there are FAR greater than from some displacement, displacement can let you run some bigger heads and cam but it is a lot of cost. $2500-3000 spent on heads and cam can gain in excess of 100rwhp, $3500 spent on a stroker kit machined and assembled and using a larger cam might gain you 20-30hp more.
Like I said should be about the last thing you look at.

 

Yeah I'm leaning towards 355 stock crank, forged rods and pistons, with the top as I explained... Still might push a 50-100 shot through it (very seldom).

 

Do a search for a stock gm crank failing and you'll likely find nothing. Do a search for a Chinese cast crank failing and you find a lot. Guys push 900rwhp on stock 6.0, 4.8 and 5.3s and fail a rod before the crank and the cranks are made the same in the LS and LT, but 6 bolt mains vs 2 bolt makes a difference at that level.

 

I just don't understand why the stock cranks are so much more stronger then aftermarket... Oh well I'm biting the bullet, forged!!!

 

Multi-billion dollar car manufacturers have alot more R&D and strict requirements from their vehicles and components, aftermarket companies have no where near the resources nor standards to uphold.

Also casting is merely a manufacturing process, the actually composition of the metal being used to form the part along with the expectations of the finished part can vary greatly from one manufacturer to the next. At my job we source out many cast parts (aerospace) and from one manufacturer to the next quality can vary from exceptional to downright pitiful for the same exact part. Even different runs of the same component from the same manufacturer can vary quite a bit. Also some manufacturers can become lazy and/or cheap and continue to overuse the same mold well beyond its life and produce parts of continually degrading quality.

Outside of simply the alloy used to make the casting, lower quality castings can be full of voids which make the component susceptible to failure. If you ever get a chance look at a cast part under a microscope or magnifying lens and you'll be surprised how rough of a manufacturing process it is. The reason it is used is because it's low cost and with either the right end use or care/quality control it is acceptable.

 

If you look hard enuff You can find 6.0 forged rods & pistons off here & other LT1 sites for cheaper than other places!!! I found Manley H-beams & Mahle forged flat tops for the price of the piston set shipped to My door Along with a stock oil pump with a white high pressure spring & all steel oil pump drive it should last under My right foot LoL 7/16 cap screws instead of 3/8 rod bolts are Way better in My opinion Dig threw the for sale section on here & other sites & youll prolly find a sweet deal to build a long rod 355

 

Are you saying LS rods/ pistons are direct replacements for LT rods/pistons?

Like a 6.125 rod and 4" piston on a stock LT crank?

Excuse my ignorance but I haven't seen or read about that before....

I thought we used standard small block rod/piston combos...?

Thanks for any info...