So now that I'm sure I spun my bearing I've decided to rebuild my motor. My car is a 1996 z28 m6 with 80k OG miles and has LT headers ORY and magna flow catback. ***UPDATE*** : After all the comments about the shop, I've decided not to go with the shop that was charging me 1400, sounds fishy. I'm now going to look for a shop with high quality work. I guess you get what you pay for so it looks like I'm going to have to save about 5k. I gave Lloyd a call and was more than helpful, he recommends me the LE2 package with all the right goodies in the heads for my 350ci LT1 and a 227/235 lsa cam with a nice choppy idle. My question here now is what pushrods should I buy (exactly which ones?) , what size injectors?, what brand 1.6 roller rockers ( or is there a complete kit that comes with everything?), studs?, bolts?.

 

What area are you located in? A basic block hone, crank polish, re ring and bearing and throw some arp here and there with the LE1 setup and a smaller 0.26 head gasket should have you all set.

 

I'm in l
Los Angeles brother! Not worried about emissions, that's the least of my concerns. So would I have to tell the machine shop that I would like a basic block hone, crank polish, 're ring and bearings done to my engine? Or would I have to say anything else? (This is my first time sending an engine to get rebuilt so I want to be certain on what to say).

 

I would suggest finding a "qualified" machine shop familiar with the LT1 platform (yes there are differences between SBC previous to the LT1/4)

You can get some "advice" on what others have had done and use that as a reference against what the shop advises. If the shop says yeah we can make you a xxx HP 10:xx compression motor...walk away

Most general repair "R&R a motor for $1400" are the type of places that use low end "replacement" parts on the rebuild. Their block machine work may...or may not be ideal. They advise for $200 they can add performance parts...what exactly would they do for $200?

Get the short block rebuilt by a reputable shop. Ideally you will just need a cyl hone, new rings, polish crank, have rods re-sized with ARP fasteners with new bearings all around. Then buy a head and cam package from Lloyd Elliott

Sounds like you won't be doing any of the work yourself so if you are a "point & pay" guy.....you really need to find a "performance" engine builder who will know wtf the difference is. If you feel the shop you are seeing is this place....have them do the short block as described and buy a H/C package

You will need a PCM tune for the modified engine......and "supporting" mods for a new higher HP "built" motor would be a given..

 

This! X2 on find another shop. $200 won't buy you a cam. I paid $1k for machine work alone.

Where are you located? Maybe someone on this forum knows of a good LTx machine shop in your area.

 

I'm in Los Angeles,California

 

There is no way in hell any place is gonna pull, rebuild, and install an engine for you in these cars for 1400 dollars without taking some serious shortcuts.

I'm just a college kid who does work on the side in my shop and I recently was hired to pull, rebuild, and install a LQ4 in an 03 Silverado (turbo build, fully forged bottom end) and his bill to me just for labor was $1800. He was also more than happy to pay it considering he paid 4k for a "professional" speed shop to throw on a BOLT ON turbo kit and proceed to blow the engine up (didn't hook up the wastegate, 7 psi turned to 15 psi on stock internals, not to mention the **** tune) AND drive a forklift into his truck.

Needless to say, I'm willing to bet that if you take your car to them that either

a)your car comes back broken

or

b)your bill goes WAY over $1400

 

Lol that was 4k to the trash.
Yea man I'm not going with that shop anymore sounds kind of fishy after what everyone is saying. I don't want my car to break down as I'm driving it somewhere, then all y money goes down the drain too.

 

Unfortunately, you're asking for a lot of specific information that really depends on a lot of what you do. For example, the size of injector you choose really depends on whether you keep stock bore and/or stroke, compression, cam, valves, and more. If you are doing a full engine rebuild, and you intend to put serious power down in the future then start off with building forged internals (crank, piston rods, pistons) so you have strength to build on. Then look at whether you want boost eventually. If no, you can use a higher compression piston (10:1 - 15:1) with no issues as long as you use ARP head bolts or studs (studs are better). If you want to boost it, then you want lower compression to support that (7:1-9:1 depending on boost level). there are plenty of head/cam packages out there that can take a lot of the guesswork out of the top-end. I have an LS1 head/cam package from trickflow and I love it. After you have figured out your bottom end and your valvetrain, you need to look at your intake and exhaust. the more intake air flow you have, the better your throttle response and engine response will be, as well as power. Your exhaust can be very important as well. Good headers and a high-flowing cat back can make a huge difference. there are tons of choices for all of this. Once you have intake/exhaust, look at fuel. Get the injectors you need for your application (there are calculators all over the net) and a fuel pump to support those injectors.

Whatever you choose to do just remember engines only do four things: suck in air, compress air/gas, ignite/explode gas/air mix, push exhaust out. If you can improve all four of these steps, then you will increase performance of your motor. Also, realize you may end up changing things multiple times whenever you make another change (like getting even bigger injectors when you boost). Since this is a likelihood, always build with wiggle room to support larger things down the road.

If you have any further questions, you're welcome to PM me here. You can also email me at shadowfirep@msn.com for a quicker response. I'm happy to help.

 

If he has a spun rod bearing it is highly unlikely he can get by with polishing the crank.Crank will probably have to be ground and Rod Is probably junk as well but may get by with re sizing.
IF you were closer to Kentucky we could set you up. But for what you are talking about any machine shop that wont screw you(one you trust) can do what your asking. If I have read and understood right you are basically trying to repair a stock bottom end and put a head/cam package on. Its not that intimidating to most shops when they are rebuilding engines with DHOC and newer diesel engines. Talk around and see who people recommend in your area. We have everything from single cylinder kohler to C7 cats come in out shop. We have AERA specs on all automotive engines. If you were talking about a major performance build them I would be with everyone else, go with someone that knows the LT1, BUt a bottom end repair and Lloyd doing the heads and cam, should be pretty strait forward