LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Electric water pump puzzlement

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Old Dec 26, 2015 | 08:51 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Kevin97ss
So with a decrease in coolant flow there is an increase in dwell time. More time for the coolant to absorb heat from the source as well as more time to release heat in its slower travel through the radiator.
Same thing I was thinking..
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 08:37 AM
  #62  
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We will file "dwell time" right along side the perpetual motion belief of the little electric motor doing more work. Look into it yourselves from a SCIENTIFIC perspective not an automotive one full of myth, you wont ever believe me.

Several automotive waterpump manufacturers have FAQ debunking the dwell time myth and you don't see CSR and Meziere using it as a sales argument.

Roger, yes it was datalogging.
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 12:17 PM
  #63  
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My scientific perspective tells me ignoring the function of dwell would be foolish, akin to removing the thermostat and expecting a cooler running engine.

Not to say that you are incorrect, but you simply cannot crumple the word and toss it into the perpetual motion file like it is something that cannot exist.

Comparing data sets from yourself and ****** objectively, since both are at opposite ends of the spectrum should give you something to ponder.
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 12:36 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Kevin97ss
My scientific perspective tells me ignoring the function of dwell would be foolish, akin to removing the thermostat and expecting a cooler running engine.

Not to say that you are incorrect, but you simply cannot crumple the word and toss it into the perpetual motion file like it is something that cannot exist.

Comparing data sets from yourself and ****** objectively, since both are at opposite ends of the spectrum should give you something to ponder.
Removing the thermostat in anything else other than an LT1 will make it run cooler.

Mass flow is directly related to how well you transfer heat.
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 01:13 PM
  #65  
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Kevin, he is seeing raised temps too, just not as accurately as I am by using a scantool.
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 01:49 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Shownomercy
Removing the thermostat in just about anything else other than an LT1 will make it run cooler.

Mass flow is directly related to how well you transfer heat.
Slight correction, otherwise true.

Yes, but understand there are two components at work that transfer heat, coolant and air. Increase the flow of coolant through the block and it will run cooler. Increase the flow of coolant through the radiator with out a corresponding increase in air flow will not significantly cool.
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 02:16 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Kevin, he is seeing raised temps too, just not as accurately as I am by using a scantool.
Yes, and in much higher ambient temps...yet he does not report overheating in sustained highway driving.

What I am suggesting is a transfer of function. Certainly the ewp cannot match the flow of the mechanical beyond a certain rpm. The increased flow of the mechanical removes heat from the engine faster. The decreased flow of the electric allows the airflow to pull more heat from the coolant.
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 02:26 PM
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Sustained driving at 85mph is not the road racing the OP is seeking to do though is it?


Where has anyone suggested overheating under sustained driving?
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 02:27 PM
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By raised temps at cruising at or above 75 mph (at 110+ outside temps) for sustained periods I only notice my temp gauge being about a needles width more. I don't know if this equates to 5 or 10 degrees. Have not data log under those conditions. The gauge does not increase at FWY speeds when the temps are 70-80's out

Dwayne (Caprice) says he saw higher temps in data log at speeds at or above 75 mph.

By how many degrees I don't know. 2,5 or 10 degrees. Either way that increase IMHO is nothing of any operational concern. Don't know what temp conditions Caprice was in . Wisconsin in general has lower temps in summer than S. Calif. and Nevada. Yes it does get very hot in Wisconsin, more humid, I lived there for 2 years. Just not desert 110+ heat even at midnight in Vegas

My gauge showed a slight increase under significant outside temps of over 110-115 degrees and I see similar increase on my 4 cyl daily so I contribute those increases more to how fing hot it is outside vs the EWP not moving as much water at 75+ MPH as the mechanical (not saying the EWP flows the same)

If my EWP ran hotter under just normal street driving OR at the track I would have dumped it 17 years ago. It would appear by the gauge it does run hotter at sustained FWY speeds when it is 110+ but on most days where temps are 70-80 degrees, the temp gauge stays the same. Does it actually run a few degrees hotter if I use scan tool? Quite possible but whatever that temp increase is, for me it has not proven to be a issue nor has it induced any "ping" or detonation.

I am pleased with the 17 year 90k mi lifespan of my EWP. Significantly more than the mechanicals I had. If it dies tomorrow I will just put the spare on I have had in the trunk for about 15 years and send the dead one back to Meziere for their $100 rebuild and keep that one in the trunk.

On a side note, At the West Coast Gathering in Vegas this year several B-body owners who drove form several states and even the locals said they were running hotter (it was brutally hot out) and most, if not all, had Mechanical WP's. Outside temp will effect any car especially when it is 110+ out.

This thread is moving away from the OP's mod. I hope he does report actuals once he gets some operational time with is track car.

Last edited by BALLSS; Dec 27, 2015 at 02:39 PM.
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Sustained driving at 85mph is not the road racing the OP is seeking to do though is it?


Where has anyone suggested overheating under sustained driving?
yeah Dwayne, the OP will be running, I assume, high sustained RPM's vs cruising at 75+mph at say 2k to 2800 rpm.

Will be good to hear from him how his EWP performs under his "race" condition.
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Sustained driving at 85mph is not the road racing the OP is seeking to do though is it?


Where has anyone suggested overheating under sustained driving?
Sorry, I was not suggesting an ewp will work for the op's purpose. I was merely responding to the data I was seeing. Your experience of running warmer in 40 degree air and ****** not overheating in 110+.
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 03:08 PM
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I don't think anyone here is saying a car will "overheat" running a EWP in any normal, 1/4 mi or 110+ degree heat at fwy speeds.

Caprice, from my understanding, notes he data log a higher temp at 75mph driving. By how many degrees I don't know but I didn't get the impression by much nor was it "over heating"

But back to the OP's use condition. He has spent time researching and machining the EWP for his track use intent. Will be interesting to hear results. If positive what impact did his mod have vs a off the shelf Meziere. Again I commend his effort in attempting to modify and possibly improve the function of the EWP in his track use condition.
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 04:38 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Kevin97ss
At .030, check for contact marks after a heat before starting a race. Thermal expansion rates will be different between the center of the pump and the outer housing. Hate to see the impeller stall from contact.





So with a decrease in coolant flow there is an increase in dwell time. More time for the coolant to absorb heat from the source as well as more time to release heat in its slower travel through the radiator. Is it out of the realm of possibility that what you have witnessed is the thermostat closing from excessive heat loss at highway speed?
This is ignoring temperature deltas, the delta in the engine vs in the radiator is significantly larger. Therefore, the slower the coolant flow the more likely you are to overheat, and it will run hotter vs higher coolant flow.

Thermal expansion is a consideration, but there's less clearance between the piston and the block sleeves, they are two different materials under much more force and heat. Not a big issue there, and certainly not an issue at 200°f in the water pump and .030" clearance.
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Old Dec 27, 2015 | 05:14 PM
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The other thing you guys are ignoring about my result is it was on my way home from the dragstrip 150miles and it was warmer on the highway than it was on surface streets when getting back home, this was same day and fully heat soaked at the END of a 150mile drive that I saw colder temps at 35mph than 75mph. I am not talking months later or anything I am talking minutes. I never saw cooler at low speeds than high with the mechanical unless so slow it was fan dependent.
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 07:20 AM
  #75  
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If the EWP doesn't work out you might be interested in the below option, it is by far the most capable cooling solution but not cheap.
Belt driven Stewart water pump for LT1's
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 09:28 AM
  #76  
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Steward had long threatening something LT1, have a link that doesn't require a login. Presumably it is another pump and adapters? The b-bodies had a mechanical fan option which used a hub with another belt mounted inside and to the front of the damper, could see that being adaptable as a belt drive.
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 10:16 AM
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screen captures of the pertinent info.
Attached Thumbnails Electric water pump puzzlement-wp1.jpg   Electric water pump puzzlement-wp2.jpg  
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 10:26 AM
  #78  
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Come on, there is text in there about electrics being insufficient for road racing and how a 12volt system just can't support the load for real volume. How can you expect people to take that seriously?

On a more serious note, thank you for posting that.
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Come on, there is text in there about electrics being insufficient for road racing and how a 12volt system just can't support the load for real volume. How can you expect people to take that seriously?

On a more serious note, thank you for posting that.
I'm quite sure the person doing it knows what he is talking about since he has been road racing for years and has personal experience with pumps that exceed any current EWP. Even a stock pump outflows any EWP by a large margin. If an EWP were sufficient you would see them being run in RR.

You're welcome only took a few minutes to capture and edit.
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by hrcslam
This is ignoring temperature deltas, the delta in the engine vs in the radiator is significantly larger. Therefore, the slower the coolant flow the more likely you are to overheat, and it will run hotter vs higher coolant flow.
The delta of the coolant or the component?
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