Blower Motor
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Blower Motor
sooo....i have a 97 SS Camaro w/ a Procharger D1. Looking for the next stage in performance. I have an extra 4bolt main LT1 motor, and have been thinking about boring it .030over, sending the stock heads to LE, and get a custom blower cam from him. Do some Eagle Forged Rods and Some Wiseco/Mahle Forged Pistons. Stud the heads/mains and use the stock crank and ROCK IT!
Car has all supporting mods, probably gonna bump the boost and add methanol injection at time of motor swap.
Car makes 475rwhp@10psi on stock heads,cam, rotating assembly. Lookin for 550-600rwhp. Any suggestions on parts or anything?
Ultimate Plans, down the road will be to 4bolt splay the 2bolt main block(thats currently in the car) with a Fully Forged 383, trick flow ported heads. But, until then I think I can get by with the above setup.
Car has all supporting mods, probably gonna bump the boost and add methanol injection at time of motor swap.
Car makes 475rwhp@10psi on stock heads,cam, rotating assembly. Lookin for 550-600rwhp. Any suggestions on parts or anything?
Ultimate Plans, down the road will be to 4bolt splay the 2bolt main block(thats currently in the car) with a Fully Forged 383, trick flow ported heads. But, until then I think I can get by with the above setup.
Last edited by 97SSD1; 10-17-2015 at 12:32 PM. Reason: Additions
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
You're looking at a lot of money spent on a temporary setup. Probably around $1600-2000 or more in just machining and assembly.
Clean, magnaflux $200
Bore/hone $300~
Balance rotating assembly $200
Line hone for ARP main studs $200
Cam bearings ???
Freeze plugs ???
Galley plugs ???
Assembly... $750+
Then you have to factor in parts.
$600-700 for Mahles
$100-300 for rings because moly sucks (1.5/1.5/3.0 Total Seals weren't cheap)
$500 for rods with 7/16" ARPs
$100~ for main studs
Price of main/rod bearings, cam bearings, plugs, little things
I would skip right to the 383 honestly. Nothing wrong with using the factory 4-bolt block if you get billet main caps. The factory ones are junky gray iron and can crack. Shouldn't really cost any more than stock caps w/ARPs because you're already paying for a line bore.
Clean, magnaflux $200
Bore/hone $300~
Balance rotating assembly $200
Line hone for ARP main studs $200
Cam bearings ???
Freeze plugs ???
Galley plugs ???
Assembly... $750+
Then you have to factor in parts.
$600-700 for Mahles
$100-300 for rings because moly sucks (1.5/1.5/3.0 Total Seals weren't cheap)
$500 for rods with 7/16" ARPs
$100~ for main studs
Price of main/rod bearings, cam bearings, plugs, little things
I would skip right to the 383 honestly. Nothing wrong with using the factory 4-bolt block if you get billet main caps. The factory ones are junky gray iron and can crack. Shouldn't really cost any more than stock caps w/ARPs because you're already paying for a line bore.