freshen up build
10-22-2015, 11:40 PM
#1
freshen up build heres where IM with the car, I wanted to swap a ls into it even gathered some parts but I changed my mind. the is a 95 lt1 under 100k . runs fine all good . I been hearing lately guys blowing gaskets and the money it cost for machine work and heads and parts to rebuild seems that a used ls would them be the way to go but in my case I want to pull the motor and check it good and freshen it up new seals and gaskets bearings and a cam. ( a good sounding cam is very important to me I just drive the car and sometimes mess around but that's it ) maybe some roller rockers and springs . question is what kit or where is the best place to get the parts good part oe or better at a good price if I left anything out to add please do. I was looking on ebay at some kits to get an idea what comes with rebuild kits . some of the gaskets and parts seem shaky thanks
10-23-2015, 04:09 AM
#2
TECH Addict
Don't do just a cam for good sound. By good sound I assume you mean lop. If you're after that loppy idle, get the package. Lloyd Elliot and AI make kits for this.
Before you pull the engine is it leaking anywhere? If so, do those leaks require you to pull the engine? If not, don't.
Do a compression check. Check it dry and all spark plugs removed, then squirt a little bit of oil in each cylinder and check it again. If the compression jumps when you squirt oil in it, it's likely bad piston rings. BUT, because our cars are so freakin hard to do spark plugs, we usually only do compression checks on a cold engine when it should be done on an engine at operating temp (yeah, **** that!). So, if they all jump the same don't sweat it too much especially if they are all good numbers (I forget what a stock LT1 should read on a compression check, hopefully someone can chime in with that info). If one piston is more than 10% higher or lower than the rest and the oil squirt corrects it, piston ring for sure. If it doesn't it's in the head.
Basically, what I'm trying to say is do a good tune up. Check all the vitals and replace only what you need to. You CAN replace/rebuild if you want to, but it could be a huge waste of money too.
With you wanting to cam it up for that sound, if you are looking for performance without doing everything else to make that kind of cam work, you won't get it. It'll lose power without matching the rest of the build to it.
So, what's you budget? Goals (street/strip, DD, AutoX, Road race, etc.)?
Here's my build thread (the engine rebuild starts at post 11) to get an idea of what all needs to happen. I also listed all the parts I used here.
Before you pull the engine is it leaking anywhere? If so, do those leaks require you to pull the engine? If not, don't.
Do a compression check. Check it dry and all spark plugs removed, then squirt a little bit of oil in each cylinder and check it again. If the compression jumps when you squirt oil in it, it's likely bad piston rings. BUT, because our cars are so freakin hard to do spark plugs, we usually only do compression checks on a cold engine when it should be done on an engine at operating temp (yeah, **** that!). So, if they all jump the same don't sweat it too much especially if they are all good numbers (I forget what a stock LT1 should read on a compression check, hopefully someone can chime in with that info). If one piston is more than 10% higher or lower than the rest and the oil squirt corrects it, piston ring for sure. If it doesn't it's in the head.
Basically, what I'm trying to say is do a good tune up. Check all the vitals and replace only what you need to. You CAN replace/rebuild if you want to, but it could be a huge waste of money too.
With you wanting to cam it up for that sound, if you are looking for performance without doing everything else to make that kind of cam work, you won't get it. It'll lose power without matching the rest of the build to it.
So, what's you budget? Goals (street/strip, DD, AutoX, Road race, etc.)?
Here's my build thread (the engine rebuild starts at post 11) to get an idea of what all needs to happen. I also listed all the parts I used here.
10-23-2015, 02:56 PM
#3
as far as I know the motor is fine not leaking anything anywhere . I want to do the cam and thought while I was at it do new gaskets rings and bearings because of age if nothing else . I was think 503 or 306 cam even the lt4 hot cams have a nice sound I just do see the need for new heads I will do rockers and springs at very least I don't really have GOALS for it other then to sound the way I want and drive it when I want and every once in a while punch it.... again for the cost of the heads or a machine shop and rebuild I could do a ls swap rebuild kits seem around 300 - 500 and cam under 400 and the retune any one use a certain rebuild kit or parts let me know Ill check it out thanks
10-26-2015, 09:33 AM
#4
Basically, sounds like you're looking to do a rebuilt LT1 vs a rebuilt LS......plus the conversion costs associated with dropping in the LS engine.
And I say a rebuilt LS because any used engine you buy without knowing it's complete history really should be torn down and rebuilt....if you plan to get 50-100K miles of 'trouble-free' performance.
Getting 500HP out of a LS engine is very doable, but it ain't cheap....especially if you're looking at 500 at the wheels.
Getting 300HP is way easy....but it's way easy to do that with a LT1 engine.
Best bang for the buck (since you have no particular HP/racing goals) would be to rebuild your current (or a junkyard) LT1, stuff it with a CC-503 cam, valve job on the heads and finish it off with new valve springs and a set of 1.6 roller rockers.
And then, for God's sake, get a mail-order tune from a reputable tuner!.
But hell....that's just my humble opinion......
KW
And I say a rebuilt LS because any used engine you buy without knowing it's complete history really should be torn down and rebuilt....if you plan to get 50-100K miles of 'trouble-free' performance.
Getting 500HP out of a LS engine is very doable, but it ain't cheap....especially if you're looking at 500 at the wheels.
Getting 300HP is way easy....but it's way easy to do that with a LT1 engine.
Best bang for the buck (since you have no particular HP/racing goals) would be to rebuild your current (or a junkyard) LT1, stuff it with a CC-503 cam, valve job on the heads and finish it off with new valve springs and a set of 1.6 roller rockers.
And then, for God's sake, get a mail-order tune from a reputable tuner!.
But hell....that's just my humble opinion......
KW
10-26-2015, 12:57 PM
#5
as far as I know the motor is fine not leaking anything anywhere . I want to do the cam and thought while I was at it do new gaskets rings and bearings because of age if nothing else . I was think 503 or 306 cam even the lt4 hot cams have a nice sound I just do see the need for new heads I will do rockers and springs at very least I don't really have GOALS for it other then to sound the way I want and drive it when I want and every once in a while punch it.... again for the cost of the heads or a machine shop and rebuild I could do a ls swap rebuild kits seem around 300 - 500 and cam under 400 and the retune any one use a certain rebuild kit or parts let me know Ill check it out thanks
10-26-2015, 04:56 PM
#7
Basically, sounds like you're looking to do a rebuilt LT1 vs a rebuilt LS......plus the conversion costs associated with dropping in the LS engine.
And I say a rebuilt LS because any used engine you buy without knowing it's complete history really should be torn down and rebuilt....if you plan to get 50-100K miles of 'trouble-free' performance.
Getting 500HP out of a LS engine is very doable, but it ain't cheap....especially if you're looking at 500 at the wheels.
Getting 300HP is way easy....but it's way easy to do that with a LT1 engine.
Best bang for the buck (since you have no particular HP/racing goals) would be to rebuild your current (or a junkyard) LT1, stuff it with a CC-503 cam, valve job on the heads and finish it off with new valve springs and a set of 1.6 roller rockers.
And then, for God's sake, get a mail-order tune from a reputable tuner!.
But hell....that's just my humble opinion......
KW
And I say a rebuilt LS because any used engine you buy without knowing it's complete history really should be torn down and rebuilt....if you plan to get 50-100K miles of 'trouble-free' performance.
Getting 500HP out of a LS engine is very doable, but it ain't cheap....especially if you're looking at 500 at the wheels.
Getting 300HP is way easy....but it's way easy to do that with a LT1 engine.
Best bang for the buck (since you have no particular HP/racing goals) would be to rebuild your current (or a junkyard) LT1, stuff it with a CC-503 cam, valve job on the heads and finish it off with new valve springs and a set of 1.6 roller rockers.
And then, for God's sake, get a mail-order tune from a reputable tuner!.
But hell....that's just my humble opinion......
KW
come on bro tune ??? whats that .??. !
haha for sure will be modifying the tune
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10-27-2015, 05:45 AM
#8
An ls swap costs more than you think by the time you change the bell housing and input shaft, wiring, pcm, exhaust, accessories, ad you are still left with an unknown used motor.
A basic rebuild/refresh of an lt1 COULD cost as little as $300. That's only if your cylinder walls are clean and not egg shaped and don't need an overbore. If they are good, you just need rods resized for ARP bolts $80-$100, arp rod bolts $75, gaskets, bearings, crank polished or possibly cut 0.010, rings, a hone, and clean the block. That's reusing the non TTY main and head bolts if it's a 93-95 motor, 96-97 have TTY and need new bolts. You really don't know until you tear it down and have a machine shop look at it, and that part is free so you might as well start there and then make a decision, making sure to stamp your parts as you pull them off with a number/letter die kit from Harbor Freight. If it needs an overbore, you need new pistons, and rebalanced. If you opt for forged rods and forged pistons it could be $2500. It could be $300, $1000, or $2500 depending on the damage. Which ever way you end up, all 3 options will take 7000rpm NA, the forged option is ready for nitrous. I am going for the $300 option personally, but adding decking the block $150 to 0.010 in the hole and 0.026 head gaskets for 11.5:1 with 0.036 quence instead of 11:1 with 0.046 quench without it assuming 0.02" in the hole stock.
Here is my parts list I am slowly acquiring:
Rod bolts $75 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...make/chevrolet
Resize rods for ARP bolts $80 Ellison Machine shop http://www.ellisonsmachineshop.com/
Main bolts reuse stock since Im a 94 $FREE
Main bearings $40 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...make/chevrolet
Rod bearings $25 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...make/chevrolet
Cam bearings $28 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...make/chevrolet
GM white spring $4 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-3848911/overview/
Stock replacement timing chain Cloyes C506 $13 http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/prt,47,C506
Stock replacement crank sprocket Cloyes S505 $18 http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...OYES_S505.html
Reuse cam sprocket $Free
0.026 head gaskets $42 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mr...make/chevrolet
Timing cover gasket set Part # TCS45953 $8 www.rockauto.com
reuse stock lifters $free
Competition clutch stage 2.5 $265 http://sohiperformance.com/chevrolet...FbBj7AodzyQA_A
30lb injectors new $280 or used $100
A basic rebuild/refresh of an lt1 COULD cost as little as $300. That's only if your cylinder walls are clean and not egg shaped and don't need an overbore. If they are good, you just need rods resized for ARP bolts $80-$100, arp rod bolts $75, gaskets, bearings, crank polished or possibly cut 0.010, rings, a hone, and clean the block. That's reusing the non TTY main and head bolts if it's a 93-95 motor, 96-97 have TTY and need new bolts. You really don't know until you tear it down and have a machine shop look at it, and that part is free so you might as well start there and then make a decision, making sure to stamp your parts as you pull them off with a number/letter die kit from Harbor Freight. If it needs an overbore, you need new pistons, and rebalanced. If you opt for forged rods and forged pistons it could be $2500. It could be $300, $1000, or $2500 depending on the damage. Which ever way you end up, all 3 options will take 7000rpm NA, the forged option is ready for nitrous. I am going for the $300 option personally, but adding decking the block $150 to 0.010 in the hole and 0.026 head gaskets for 11.5:1 with 0.036 quence instead of 11:1 with 0.046 quench without it assuming 0.02" in the hole stock.
Here is my parts list I am slowly acquiring:
Rod bolts $75 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...make/chevrolet
Resize rods for ARP bolts $80 Ellison Machine shop http://www.ellisonsmachineshop.com/
Main bolts reuse stock since Im a 94 $FREE
Main bearings $40 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...make/chevrolet
Rod bearings $25 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...make/chevrolet
Cam bearings $28 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...make/chevrolet
GM white spring $4 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-3848911/overview/
Stock replacement timing chain Cloyes C506 $13 http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/prt,47,C506
Stock replacement crank sprocket Cloyes S505 $18 http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...OYES_S505.html
Reuse cam sprocket $Free
0.026 head gaskets $42 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mr...make/chevrolet
Timing cover gasket set Part # TCS45953 $8 www.rockauto.com
reuse stock lifters $free
Competition clutch stage 2.5 $265 http://sohiperformance.com/chevrolet...FbBj7AodzyQA_A
30lb injectors new $280 or used $100
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 10-27-2015 at 06:01 AM.
