Is this header repairable?
You just need to have the car off the ground high enough to get them under it.
I don't think you will need to put another header on that car again once purchased. You will need to get 1" ARP header bolts with 5/16 12pt heads. I also used Percy's dead soft aluminum gaskets(for LT1/LT4). No header leaks as well.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/exha...0/#post6905815
Otherwise, I guess I'll be removing this header and sending it off for proper TIG welding as so generously offered, I think the hack job dude has a MIG welder, but I don't know much about welding at all honestly. I do know it was a nasty looking boogery weld before they smeared exhaust cement all over it. Those Kooks headers are nice however I do believe with y-pipe included they cost more than the Blue book/tax value of my car...
Gotta pay for the best like anything else I suppose. The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
At least wire routing is MUCH easier to replace with the OTVC, still, yet another thing I've got to clean up after this butchering. I think he was just pissed off it didn't work the first time due to that ceramic coating. Complete cluster f@#&!
Last edited by ahritchie; Apr 7, 2016 at 06:04 PM.
He can't possibly do much worse than the first time LOL. If it's still leaking on the 3rd attempt, I'll work on removing the header; only problem is I'm almost certain the collector was WELDED to the custom y-pipe I had to have made to be compatible with the 383 (Huge 7 qt Moroso oil pan interfering with the original Pacesetter supplied Y-pipe)....you change one thing from stockish on these cars and it affects 10 other things.
Seems like the further I keep my car from the exhaust shop the better.
I found this after removing some of the mysterious electrical tape that suddenly appeared on the plug wire next to the "patched" primary











