LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Is this header repairable?

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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 11:54 AM
  #21  
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Put some exhaust wrap on it lol
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 01:13 PM
  #22  
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Offer is still there to pull the header and I'll tig welded for you.

Jon
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 02:24 PM
  #23  
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That cement won't last very long at all.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 02:29 PM
  #24  
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that looks like ****. start over.

to be honest, you're probably going to have to pull that header to fix it right.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 03:29 PM
  #25  
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They cost $$$$, but Kooks longtubes, with their Y pipe, will give you zero install problems if your motor mounts are not sagging. I went up from the bottom with zero problems and the fitment was spot on. The fitment of Kooks headers are second to none. Ground clearance is excellent.

You just need to have the car off the ground high enough to get them under it.

I don't think you will need to put another header on that car again once purchased. You will need to get 1" ARP header bolts with 5/16 12pt heads. I also used Percy's dead soft aluminum gaskets(for LT1/LT4). No header leaks as well.

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/exha...0/#post6905815
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 03:46 PM
  #26  
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What a terrible welder.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 04:31 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
That cement won't last very long at all.
I believe you are correct...I just put a bunch of soapy water on in and it's still got tiny bubbles/leaks around that cement ****...WTF. Dude said if it was still leaking to bring it back and he'll try grinding it down and re-welding...I guess I'll give this fool one more chance since I already paid him $100 for this hack job Otherwise, I guess I'll be removing this header and sending it off for proper TIG welding as so generously offered, I think the hack job dude has a MIG welder, but I don't know much about welding at all honestly. I do know it was a nasty looking boogery weld before they smeared exhaust cement all over it.


Those Kooks headers are nice however I do believe with y-pipe included they cost more than the Blue book/tax value of my car... Gotta pay for the best like anything else I suppose.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 05:34 PM
  #28  
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For $100 you could've bought a garbage freight welder and angle grinder and butchered it yourself. Probably would've came out better because that guy must've been **** hammered when he tried that, wouldn't be surprised since most exhaust shop guys I've met are drunks.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 05:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by myltwon
For $100 you could've bought a garbage freight welder and angle grinder and butchered it yourself. Probably would've came out better because that guy must've been **** hammered when he tried that, wouldn't be surprised since most exhaust shop guys I've met are drunks.
Probably...they quoted $60 at first then it nearly doubled due to the grinding required, they apparently also took grinder or something to the plug wire close to it cuz it's now wrapped in electrical tape, and it shocked the **** out of me sticking my hand close by to feel around for leaks. At least wire routing is MUCH easier to replace with the OTVC, still, yet another thing I've got to clean up after this butchering. I think he was just pissed off it didn't work the first time due to that ceramic coating.

Complete cluster f@#&!

Last edited by ahritchie; Apr 7, 2016 at 06:04 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 06:25 PM
  #30  
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Duuuuuuuuude..... Thats a mess to put it kindly.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 11:28 PM
  #31  
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Did Ray Charles weld that header with his feet?
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 01:18 AM
  #32  
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fyi pacesetter sales those headers without egr setup as a race version
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 12:19 PM
  #33  
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Well the exhaust shop welder (butcher?) has agreed to take the grinder to it and clean off all that exhaust cement **** and re-weld the patch next monday, so hopefully he's not blind drunk first thing in the AM He can't possibly do much worse than the first time LOL. If it's still leaking on the 3rd attempt, I'll work on removing the header; only problem is I'm almost certain the collector was WELDED to the custom y-pipe I had to have made to be compatible with the 383 (Huge 7 qt Moroso oil pan interfering with the original Pacesetter supplied Y-pipe)....you change one thing from stockish on these cars and it affects 10 other things. So if it comes to that I've probably got to deal with more exhaust shop shenanigans to remove the header. Seems like the further I keep my car from the exhaust shop the better.
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 02:13 PM
  #34  
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Why in the **** would he have ever thought that welding to ceramic coating was going to work?

Originally Posted by ahritchie
Oh, that's why.
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 04:36 PM
  #35  
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Honestly any person that welds or brazes for a living and doesn't realize you have to prep the surface you're trying to bond is a complete idiot.
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 04:56 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by myltwon
Honestly any person that welds or brazes for a living and doesn't realize you have to prep the surface you're trying to bond is a complete idiot.
Yep, and some 80 year old man helping out with the grinding portion of the "repair" ruined one of my $80 set MSD wires with that frigging grinder and being too lazy to remove the damn wire. I had to go buy a $16 cut to fit yellow accel wire to try to clean up their mess as it shocked the **** out of both me and the welder fondling the header for leaks.... I found this after removing some of the mysterious electrical tape that suddenly appeared on the plug wire next to the "patched" primary Of course he neglected to mention this at the time; I'm tattling to the boss man on him Monday....Lol, the welder guy had the nerve to tell me I need a tune up....no **** after this huge gash all the way to the inner wire.


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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 09:18 PM
  #37  
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Wow I have never seen anything like this before! Looks like you got a bad header. Personally I never liked Pacesetters. Had Jet Hots for many years with no issues other than the coating wearing off on some parts. I just ordered some stainless long tubes with a y-pipe from ebay for $379.00. Keep that in mind.
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 10:34 AM
  #38  
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If these guys can't fix it right then I'd be looking at some stainless long tubes rather than dumping more money into crappy mids.
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 10:53 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by myltwon
Honestly any person that welds or brazes for a living and doesn't realize you have to prep the surface you're trying to bond is a complete idiot.
I agree. If I ever have to tell the professional how to do something or give them solutions. There is a problem. You should of walked away, but we live and we learn.
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 12:01 PM
  #40  
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Dude the welder is shitty.. If they done it while on the car you have started the car up and checked for leaks before leaving..
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