Cross hatch gone on thrust side. Re-hone/re-ring?
Cross hatch gone on thrust side. Re-hone/re-ring? So I just pulled my heads for a head/intake swap, and I noticed that the cylinders seem polished with no more cross hatch on the thrust side and instead have vertical lines in the cylinder, but not deep enough where I can feel them. Do I need to pull the engine and re-hone and re-ring the engine now while its half torn apart, or should it be fine with the current setup if I wasn't burning oil?
Did you do a compression check? It's a slippery slope to start that rebuild, new pistons $700, you'll want forged rods to complete that so minimum $300 for scat forged pieces, then rebalance $225, crank cut $150, bearings, bolts, etc and your easily at $2000.
It's already been rebuilt about 2 years ago, forged Eagle 3.75 crank, 6" Scat rods, internally balanced, 4.040" 5cc flat top SRP pistons, Total Seal rings, and was assembled with the Total Seal Dry Lube, so if I were to tear it down it would just be a re-hone and re-ring. Before I pulled the heads it didn't smoke whatsoever, and ran pretty strong. Can't do a compression test until I put it back together with the new heads/intake. Once I pulled the heads I noticed that the intake was getting oil in it and there was some oil in the head ports and a few of the plugs, which wasn't there last time I did a plug swap last year.
I'm thinking for now put it back together, seal the intake ports well, put catch cans on the PCV lines, or possibly even run a vacuum pump around 10-12" and if I start having issues burning oil/smoking then, pulling the engine at that point? A vacuum setup would help correct?
I'm thinking for now put it back together, seal the intake ports well, put catch cans on the PCV lines, or possibly even run a vacuum pump around 10-12" and if I start having issues burning oil/smoking then, pulling the engine at that point? A vacuum setup would help correct?
I'm pretty sure the oil getting in the intake caused the issue, as there was an oil mist in the ports, on some of the plugs, and a few of the injectors also were gummed up. I think I'm going to go ahead and put the heads/intake on for now, using some 3M adhesive for the intake ports, and either a catch can on the PCV lines or a vacuum pump setup. I'm pretty sure I had practically no blow by before I pulled the heads, so I'll just run it. If I start burning oil and/or I start getting some blow by, then I'll pull the engine and maybe get some small dome Pistons to up from 13 to 14:1 compression. So hopefully at least another year or 2 before that happens.
Trending Topics
Really need to measure tolerances and make sure you have enough left to rehone. IF it was originally finished in the lower or middle of the tolerance you could probably get by with rehoning especially with so few miles since a rebuild
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
That's a good question. Would be interesting to see what your piston skirts look like.
I didn't check the side skirt clearances, but I double checked everything else the machine shop did, and everything esle came out spot on to what they said. I can only assume they did. All the machine work and the rings were all done by NHRA builder Jeff Taylor, lucky for me he's local and was able to get me in. He ordered the Pistons and rings and bearings, as I originally was going to go .030" over but since the block I gave him had some surface rust, it needed .040" to get a good finish.
Could it be a combination of oil in the cylinder as well as E85 fuel wash? Like I said, most of my injectors were pretty clogged with oil, so if the fuel was dripping in instead of spraying a good pattern, would that have contributed?
Could it be a combination of oil in the cylinder as well as E85 fuel wash? Like I said, most of my injectors were pretty clogged with oil, so if the fuel was dripping in instead of spraying a good pattern, would that have contributed?