Second Best Clutch for 400 RWHP?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Utica, IL
Second Best Clutch for 400 RWHP? Obviously the Street Twin is hands down the best you can get. Unfortunately, I cannot justify putting that much money into the car right now. My clutch is pretty much toast and I need to put something new in when the motor and trans goes back in.
What other clutches have you guys been using that work well for around 400 RWHP on the street? Not looking for a strip oriented clutch. Thanks!
(Would have put this in the drivetrain forum, but it seems pretty LS based in there.)
What other clutches have you guys been using that work well for around 400 RWHP on the street? Not looking for a strip oriented clutch. Thanks!
(Would have put this in the drivetrain forum, but it seems pretty LS based in there.)
People used to buy Auto zone clutches and replace the Discs with Mcleod. Same Valeo pressure plate. Maybe a thread on CZ28.com, we did that 10+ years ago on a buddies Z28. He got a parts store clutch kit, then ordered the mcleod clutch disc from Thunder.
I ran a Spec stage 3 for a long time and was making 420ish RWHP. It had close to 20,000 miles and roughly 75 passes on it. When I sold the tranny it still looked decent and the guy I sold it to ran it as well. However I drove that car 500 miles easy so they recommended for the break In period
Great street manners and holds great for a mildly modified engine.
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From: Maricopa, AZ
I'm running the McLoed disc (500 series IIRC) in the stock everything else set up. It definitely handles my 414rwhp no problems. Way better than my Ram HDx did for sure. But, trying to slip it from a stop at low rpms is chattery. Rev matching is rewarded with this clutch too, going from the top of 2nd to 6th requires patience for the engine to drop rpms before slipping on the clutch or it chatters, or you can drop the clutch in that scenario (it doesn't chatter of you just pop the clutch out).
Edit: the McLeod disc p/n is 261571.
Edit: the McLeod disc p/n is 261571.
Last edited by hrcslam; Apr 12, 2016 at 02:04 PM.
McLeod single disc + LT4 clutch setup (not using the clutch disc, clearly) from AZ (I think) here as well, which it sounds like a lot of folks use (or a derivation of it). Exactly what bizzatch recommended above.
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I see LT1 replacement clutches at chain auto part stores for $199 sometimes. The PP is the same clone LT4 PP every clutch company uses. Last I saw the McLeod disc I bought from Summit it was $170ish so the total cost of the clutch is under $400. Good for the $ but light years behind the McLeod Street Twin
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I had a SPEC in my car before the street twin. Was sad I couldn't use the SPEC anymore. I had great luck with them, and they drove better than stock. The stage 3+ has a fantastic feel and is rated over 850 torque, all at a very good price. I'd trust that over a Autozone clutch anyday.
I see LT1 replacement clutches at chain auto part stores for $199 sometimes. The PP is the same clone LT4 PP every clutch company uses. Last I saw the McLeod disc I bought from Summit it was $170ish so the total cost of the clutch is under $400. Good for the $ but light years behind the McLeod Street Twin
Brian
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On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Utica, IL
Thanks for all the replies guys!
I did some more research and it looks like I might just throw a Competition Clutch Stage 2 (4134-2250) in there for now and get the stock flywheel resurfaced. I do not really plan to bring it to the strip, so it should be fine for the way I drive (for now). If this one dies it will be Street Twin all the way.
I was looking at the Spec clutches and they are a little pricier. I figured it would probably be worth running of their flywheels then too. Once you add all that up you are not far off from Street Twin territory.
Are there any good aftermarket throwout bearings available for a stock style clutch? It sounds like most recent TO bearings do not have the best reputation.
I did some more research and it looks like I might just throw a Competition Clutch Stage 2 (4134-2250) in there for now and get the stock flywheel resurfaced. I do not really plan to bring it to the strip, so it should be fine for the way I drive (for now). If this one dies it will be Street Twin all the way.
I was looking at the Spec clutches and they are a little pricier. I figured it would probably be worth running of their flywheels then too. Once you add all that up you are not far off from Street Twin territory.
Are there any good aftermarket throwout bearings available for a stock style clutch? It sounds like most recent TO bearings do not have the best reputation.
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SPEC offers them for around $80 IIRC
I also used the Competition Clutch, it like all the other single disc clutches it died. Mostly because of track use but for just daily driving it should be OK. I would just use the TO bearing that comes with it
Pics showing difference between the standard round top and square top TO bearing
I've had both the comp stage 2.5 and the 2 which I'm running now. I feel my 3.23 gearing killed both clutches due to having to slip it more during take off. The 2.5 was more snappier during shifts which I enjoyed. It chattered during take off if I didn't slip it just right, which was my enemy and killed it by slipping it too much during regular driving. Still had decent street manners. I think my gearing is the biggest issue. Auto to t56 swap.
The comp stage 2 is what I currently have. It's a lot more friendly for a daily driver, isn't as aggressive during shifts. It's a bit softer. Again I feel like my gears killed this clutch as well. Lol it didn't take long for it to start acting up. I didn't completely follow break in on it as well so I'm sure that contributed to it as well.
I would say there both good clutches, most of my issues I would say is ignorance of the owner. Haha if I had to buy another one, it will be the 2.5 again. I feel it handled the downshifts and more aggressive driving better especially when it got hot.
The comp stage 2 is what I currently have. It's a lot more friendly for a daily driver, isn't as aggressive during shifts. It's a bit softer. Again I feel like my gears killed this clutch as well. Lol it didn't take long for it to start acting up. I didn't completely follow break in on it as well so I'm sure that contributed to it as well.
I would say there both good clutches, most of my issues I would say is ignorance of the owner. Haha if I had to buy another one, it will be the 2.5 again. I feel it handled the downshifts and more aggressive driving better especially when it got hot.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 179
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From: Utica, IL
I've had both the comp stage 2.5 and the 2 which I'm running now. I feel my 3.23 gearing killed both clutches due to having to slip it more during take off. The 2.5 was more snappier during shifts which I enjoyed. It chattered during take off if I didn't slip it just right, which was my enemy and killed it by slipping it too much during regular driving. Still had decent street manners. I think my gearing is the biggest issue. Auto to t56 swap.
The comp stage 2 is what I currently have. It's a lot more friendly for a daily driver, isn't as aggressive during shifts. It's a bit softer. Again I feel like my gears killed this clutch as well. Lol it didn't take long for it to start acting up. I didn't completely follow break in on it as well so I'm sure that contributed to it as well.
I would say there both good clutches, most of my issues I would say is ignorance of the owner. Haha if I had to buy another one, it will be the 2.5 again. I feel it handled the downshifts and more aggressive driving better especially when it got hot.
The comp stage 2 is what I currently have. It's a lot more friendly for a daily driver, isn't as aggressive during shifts. It's a bit softer. Again I feel like my gears killed this clutch as well. Lol it didn't take long for it to start acting up. I didn't completely follow break in on it as well so I'm sure that contributed to it as well.
I would say there both good clutches, most of my issues I would say is ignorance of the owner. Haha if I had to buy another one, it will be the 2.5 again. I feel it handled the downshifts and more aggressive driving better especially when it got hot.
I also plan on putting in a set of 3.90 gears since my rear end is noisy and leaking, so that should help either clutch out.
I am currently working on getting the motor rebuilt so I am just going the most economical route on the clutch and rear for now to get it road worthy. If I am super happy with the motor and decide to hang on to the car for a long time, I'll probably do the Street Twin and 9" down the road.
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From: Maricopa, AZ
I'm running the McLoed disc (500 series IIRC) in the stock everything else set up. It definitely handles my 414rwhp no problems. Way better than my Ram HDx did for sure. But, trying to slip it from a stop at low rpms is chattery. Rev matching is rewarded with this clutch too, going from the top of 2nd to 6th requires patience for the engine to drop rpms before slipping on the clutch or it chatters, or you can drop the clutch in that scenario (it doesn't chatter of you just pop the clutch out).
Edit: the McLeod disc p/n is 261571.
Edit: the McLeod disc p/n is 261571.
No track time, but it did see a lot of back road action, hard downshifts and aggressive driving. That's one of the drawbacks of the 2.5 being a ceramic on one side, the potential of glazing is there and I'm sure that was part of my problem as well. It handled the beatings that I gave it just fine, I never had it slip. The take off was my only complaint with it. I think 3.90s would have solved all issues
Stage 2 is slipping during shifts and downshifts. I feel it just wasn't up to the task of even just an mild Le1 setup.
Stage 2 is slipping during shifts and downshifts. I feel it just wasn't up to the task of even just an mild Le1 setup.
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Yeah the ceramic puc side of the disc is prone to chatter and slipping it to prevent that glazes it.
I found I could adjust my engagement technique to minimize the chatter but engagement was...."prompt". Not ideal in stop/go traffic
That's the trade off with ceramic or Kevlar puc type discs. They hold more power but give up street manners.
Nice thing about the McLeod twin with organic full face disc is it engages like stock but holds way better than a puc single disc. Has about twice the friction surface as a single disc clutch
I found I could adjust my engagement technique to minimize the chatter but engagement was...."prompt". Not ideal in stop/go traffic
That's the trade off with ceramic or Kevlar puc type discs. They hold more power but give up street manners.
Nice thing about the McLeod twin with organic full face disc is it engages like stock but holds way better than a puc single disc. Has about twice the friction surface as a single disc clutch
