Degreeing a cam
Its good enough of a cam to get mid 12s and trap 110+ and the lobes arent aggressive so they arent hard on the valvetrain. Its a good DD cam. And the 114 lsa should make the lower rpm torque feel nice, so...im sticking with it, plus i got it brand new for 110 bucks. So i shouldnt degree it then? Not worth it?
You don't "send out" a cam to degree it.
You can get an adjustable timing set (which may defeat the purpose of your $110 cam), or degree bushings for the pin-to-sprocket interface (what I would do).
What's the "drop-in" ICL of that cam? It has quite a bit of exhaust duration, and with that wide LSA, you may be losing more torque from the early opening exhaust than you will gain with the early closing intake, so I wouldn't put much faith in any help by advancing it.
You can get an adjustable timing set (which may defeat the purpose of your $110 cam), or degree bushings for the pin-to-sprocket interface (what I would do).
What's the "drop-in" ICL of that cam? It has quite a bit of exhaust duration, and with that wide LSA, you may be losing more torque from the early opening exhaust than you will gain with the early closing intake, so I wouldn't put much faith in any help by advancing it.
Its good enough of a cam to get mid 12s and trap 110+ and the lobes arent aggressive so they arent hard on the valvetrain. Its a good DD cam. And the 114 lsa should make the lower rpm torque feel nice, so...im sticking with it, plus i got it brand new for 110 bucks. So i shouldnt degree it then? Not worth it?
Thanks guys for the info. If i was rich i would prob just go with the lpe 211/219 cam. However i have seen a few dynos with this cam and it does make around 310lbs of torque before 2000rpm so i should be alright since i drive a m6. I usually drive it in the 2500-50000rpm range to work. The 220/230 duration did concern me that it is a bit much, but for the price of the cam i had to go with it. Alright so im not sending it out. Its getting Solomon tuned . Ewp to help it rev a little quicker, and 1.6 roller rockers. Ohh and 1 5/8 headers to have scavenge at lower rpms.
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A 2* advance and your engine will essentially be a truck engine.
Personally, I'd have it installed straight up....but that's just me......
KW
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Advancing the cam will give you a bit more low RPM power (torque), but it'll suppress power over 4500 RPMs. Not worth the trouble if you plan to do any racing at all. But if you don't plan to race, advance it by JUST 1*.
A 2* advance and your engine will essentially be a truck engine.
Personally, I'd have it installed straight up....but that's just me......
KW
A 2* advance and your engine will essentially be a truck engine.
Personally, I'd have it installed straight up....but that's just me......
KW
OP, being that "drivability" is subjective, I can't say what that is for you, but a 220s/230s cam is going to have some overlap in it and advancing the cam will not make the overlap go away. So, if your goal is just to move your power curve downward and increase low speed torque, it will help. If you goal is to make it idle smoother or buck less at low speeds, it likely will not help Lastly, depending on your setup and actual cam specs, you will need to be careful of the piston-to-valve clearance on the intake side when advancing a camshaft.
AFAIK the Comp stuff has 4 degrees of advance already ground into it. I'd install straight up.
If you are using an EWP and have a vented opti then use the ZZ4 timing set. Full roller, same crank sprocket and chain as the LT4 extreme.
If you are using an EWP and have a vented opti then use the ZZ4 timing set. Full roller, same crank sprocket and chain as the LT4 extreme.
On Ls stuff the "advance" figure will typically vary from 2 to 4 degrees somewhat dependent on the LSA. Even if there is "advance" ground in, you can still advance the cam more if you think it will be better for your application.
I think i will install it straight up. And look into that zz4 timing set. Everything i read about the cc305 says its a mild cam comparable to the hotcam but with a smoother idle, with a little more lift and duration. Traps around 110-112 in the 1/4 with stock heads and bolt ons.
I mean do you guys think this cam will be a dog below 3000rpm with a m6 and 342 gears? I read its a great daily driver cam but leaves 10-15 hp on the shelf compared to the cc503 and its newer more aggressive lobes. I came to the conclusion that the 503 was a tad to big for my liking. If you guys think this cam is a piece of **** i can just get the proven hotcam for cheap and install that instead?
I mean do you guys think this cam will be a dog below 3000rpm with a m6 and 342 gears? I read its a great daily driver cam but leaves 10-15 hp on the shelf compared to the cc503 and its newer more aggressive lobes. I came to the conclusion that the 503 was a tad to big for my liking. If you guys think this cam is a piece of **** i can just get the proven hotcam for cheap and install that instead?
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is the 305 the "optimum" cam for you...no, nor is the "hot cam". a custom grind would be
with that said you are starting to split hairs for your combo
just install he cam straight up.
My $.02 is smaller cams make TQ down lower....where 90% of your driving is. If its a track car, another story.
and 3:42's.....4:10's would REALLY wake up the car with the M6
with that said you are starting to split hairs for your combo
just install he cam straight up.
My $.02 is smaller cams make TQ down lower....where 90% of your driving is. If its a track car, another story.
and 3:42's.....4:10's would REALLY wake up the car with the M6
So yeah.....a difference will be evident.
As for the 'overlap' piece.....yeah; that's totally correct.
KW
If its peak torque is around 4000rpm and hp peaks at 5700-5800 that works for me. I drive on country roads, very little city driving. I dont putt around at 1500rpm very much. Usually spirited shifting between 4000-5500 rpm. And i do run it at the track twice a year with a highest trap of 101. Shooting for 110. But cruising is what its for 95% of the time. Im thinking this cam should start pulling pretty good by 3000rpm, i mean for what it is.
Aiming for 330rwhp which i should get with 1.6 roller rockers and ewp. Hope this build runs for maybe 30k miles. My next build i want a mild LE1 setup with maybe 360-370rw that is daily drivable. I want a rebuilt shortblock with arp rod bolts for that.
Aiming for 330rwhp which i should get with 1.6 roller rockers and ewp. Hope this build runs for maybe 30k miles. My next build i want a mild LE1 setup with maybe 360-370rw that is daily drivable. I want a rebuilt shortblock with arp rod bolts for that.