New to LT1
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 442
Likes: 3
From: Raleigh, NC
I'd first do the basics:
-CAI
-Headers & full exhaust
-Gears, shift kit & converter. I don't know exactly which converter or gear ratio is ideal for B-bodies, others can chime in on that one.
After that, you're into the motor. If the shortblock is in good shape, I'd do a heads and cam package. I'd do the AI 200cc heads and either the 228/234 cam or the 226/232. Both of these cams make a nice, flat torque curve which is what you need to get that boat moving quickly. Lloyd Elliott also offers several cam and head packages that are well thought of. A set of LE3 heads with a cam profile similar to the two AI grinds I mentioned would likely give similar results. You'd likely see 385-410rwhp with a setup like one of these through a locked converter and low 12s to high 11s at the track with trap speeds of 110-115 mph with a decently set up car and drag radials.
If you chose to retain stock heads, I'd still recommend picking a set of used aluminum LT heads and having them cleaned, tested and milled for a bit more compression. I'd want them for the weight savings and the safe bump in compression. I'd run the XE224/236 cam on a 112 lsa because it makes killer midrange torque and good power as well. 1.6RRs, good springs, hardened pushrods with guideplates, etc. A setup like this would likely make in the neighborhood of 335-350rwhp through a locked converter and run in the high 12s at the track at 105-110mph.
-CAI
-Headers & full exhaust
-Gears, shift kit & converter. I don't know exactly which converter or gear ratio is ideal for B-bodies, others can chime in on that one.
After that, you're into the motor. If the shortblock is in good shape, I'd do a heads and cam package. I'd do the AI 200cc heads and either the 228/234 cam or the 226/232. Both of these cams make a nice, flat torque curve which is what you need to get that boat moving quickly. Lloyd Elliott also offers several cam and head packages that are well thought of. A set of LE3 heads with a cam profile similar to the two AI grinds I mentioned would likely give similar results. You'd likely see 385-410rwhp with a setup like one of these through a locked converter and low 12s to high 11s at the track with trap speeds of 110-115 mph with a decently set up car and drag radials.
If you chose to retain stock heads, I'd still recommend picking a set of used aluminum LT heads and having them cleaned, tested and milled for a bit more compression. I'd want them for the weight savings and the safe bump in compression. I'd run the XE224/236 cam on a 112 lsa because it makes killer midrange torque and good power as well. 1.6RRs, good springs, hardened pushrods with guideplates, etc. A setup like this would likely make in the neighborhood of 335-350rwhp through a locked converter and run in the high 12s at the track at 105-110mph.
Last edited by HellTeeOne; Jul 13, 2016 at 10:44 AM.
TECH Regular
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 471
Likes: 14
From: Tucker, GA
Depends on what you want out of the car, and where you want your power to be. 3.73 or 3.42 were the two I was evaluating for my barge, but my car is daily-driven.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
So I'm going to do a little test run. I think I'm going to put 3.73s in the one that's a daily driver and see how it feels.
I like the idea of gears, kit, converter to start. Probably CAI, anyone recommend anything that actually works? Then I'll start looking at head and valvetrain.
I have no idea where I'm going to find headers for a 95 Fleetwood but the car is already full dual from the factory. Maybe some Borla or Maganaflow mufflers and pipes?
I haven't built anything in quite a while, I forgot how much fun just the conversations are.
I like the idea of gears, kit, converter to start. Probably CAI, anyone recommend anything that actually works? Then I'll start looking at head and valvetrain.
I have no idea where I'm going to find headers for a 95 Fleetwood but the car is already full dual from the factory. Maybe some Borla or Maganaflow mufflers and pipes?
I haven't built anything in quite a while, I forgot how much fun just the conversations are.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
So I'm going to do a little test run. I think I'm going to put 3.73s in the one that's a daily driver and see how it feels.
I like the idea of gears, kit, converter to start. Probably CAI, anyone recommend anything that actually works? Then I'll start looking at head and valvetrain.
I have no idea where I'm going to find headers for a 95 Fleetwood but the car is already full dual from the factory. Maybe some Borla or Maganaflow mufflers and pipes?
I haven't built anything in quite a while, I forgot how much fun just the conversations are.
I like the idea of gears, kit, converter to start. Probably CAI, anyone recommend anything that actually works? Then I'll start looking at head and valvetrain.
I have no idea where I'm going to find headers for a 95 Fleetwood but the car is already full dual from the factory. Maybe some Borla or Maganaflow mufflers and pipes?
I haven't built anything in quite a while, I forgot how much fun just the conversations are.
Headers you might have to play around with. I know there were some b-body options out a decade ago, but those have probably have disappeared. Same with direct bolt up exhausts. If you find a header (preferably long tubes) that work, you can have true duals fabricated for a reasonable price. Just search the forums for people home brewing their own true dual systems that dump at the rear axle and it'll get you some ideas. If you want to change the sound for now, you could look around for some factory replacement mufflers.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Gears and converter are an awesome start.
Headers you might have to play around with. I know there were some b-body options out a decade ago, but those have probably have disappeared. Same with direct bolt up exhausts. If you find a header (preferably long tubes) that work, you can have true duals fabricated for a reasonable price. Just search the forums for people home brewing their own true dual systems that dump at the rear axle and it'll get you some ideas. If you want to change the sound for now, you could look around for some factory replacement mufflers.
Headers you might have to play around with. I know there were some b-body options out a decade ago, but those have probably have disappeared. Same with direct bolt up exhausts. If you find a header (preferably long tubes) that work, you can have true duals fabricated for a reasonable price. Just search the forums for people home brewing their own true dual systems that dump at the rear axle and it'll get you some ideas. If you want to change the sound for now, you could look around for some factory replacement mufflers.
Last edited by codewize; Jul 15, 2016 at 06:31 PM.
