The motor has already been open complete because I bought the car with a blown head gasket. It won't be just me working on this project, my father who has owned his 95 M6 TA since it was new will be helping me. I really appreciate all the responses and help I have been getting on this thread. Thank you all!

 

Well guys, I pulled the trigger on the cam, stall, and gear swap. My plan/list stayed the same besides the camshaft and gears. Went with the Lunati voodoo 60121, 219/227 @ .050"-.549/.565 with 1.6 rr's. Decided to go with some Richmond 3.42's so my top end/high speed gas mileage won't suffer to bad. Also picked up a CSR ewp, a Cloyes c-306-k timing chain, and a 3" straight through magnaflow to replace the on3 bullet. Started on it tonight, Got the tb, water pump, fans, radiator, and the AC condensor off. Also decided to get it tuned through Moe, getting super excited to get this damn thing done! I will keep you all updated.

 

What about valve springs? I would of gone a little smaller on the lift on stock heads, When we had the shop, It seemed like stock heads liked around the .525 lift range. The duration seems to be a good choice for stock heads.

 

When I bought the car I rebuilt the top end because of a blown head gasket, while I had the heads off I installed a set of comp 918 .600" lift Springs and 1.6 roller rockers. I've put about 2,300 miles on the car since then. I don't plan to stay with the stock heads for very long so it should be okay until then.

 

Lunati eh...good luck with the build man. Let us know how she dyno's or track's.

 

Will do!

 

Got the cam in the motor friday, did the sharpie on the valve stem process just now. Perfect line right down the middle of the valve with the adj pushrod tool set to 7.050" on cyl #1 at TDC. Just wondering if this sounds about right, heads were milled down .020" when I replaced the gaskets, Felpro gaskets were used after. Just don't wont to have to take it back down if I get the length wrong. Thanks

 

Here are the pushrods I am looking at now...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...7050/overview/
I have 1.6 ratio self aligning rr's also, do I need guide plates also? Didn't think you needed guide plates with self aligning roller rockers.

 

7.050 -7.150 are common lengths when a H/C build with 7.050 on the shorter side

try 7.100 to compare results. Yes you want it centered on valve tip but also a narrow sweep. If for example the 7.100 length was "slightly" (read barely) on the exhaust side of the valve tip but a narrower sweep I would go with the 7.100.

Every build is different. Depends on how much block and/or heads were decked, head gasket thickness and cam

I use the same trick flow PR you posted, only in 7.100 length

Do not use guide plates if you have SA RR......with that said most, including me, run NSA RR with guide plates using ARP 7/16" studs vs the stock 3/8" size. If you have not purchased the RR yet than just get NSA and guide plates. I like, and use, the ISKY adjustable guide plates

 

Well guys, finally got the motor work done. Turned the motor over to check for valve clearance. Went to start it and it fired right up. Ran great, idled great, gave it a little gas and revved to about 3000 rpms. Car sounds great, shut the car off and all was well. Tried starting her backup heard a loud pop and that was it. Tried a few more times and she didn't even want to fire. I could smell fuel so it wasn't a fueling issue. Un did the ewp wiring and tried starting. Still nothing, any thoughts? I'm thinking it's the opti.

 

if it backfired through intake (pop)...that often is a Opti issue

do the basics first....check for fuel (pressure) and spark

 

Ok. The car started this morning. Could it be an ICM issue?

 

ah...an "intermittent" problem. now it started but the "why" could be tough to chase.

It could be ICM. Generally they fail when "hot" vs cold start ups.

You have had motor apart so something you "put back on" could be the problem. carefully check the grounds right next to ICM/Coil on DS head. Give each of the 4 wires on the Opti harness a "little" tug to confirm if one wire is not crimped well. Often people pull on the wires vs the plug when un-cliping the Opti harness which can cause one of the wires to pull out of the pin.

your issue sounds more ignition/electrical related ...but did you check fuel pressure??

 

Fuel pressure is good at 43 psi, opti harness is solid (it's brand new, double check to make sure it was ok) grounds are good to. Car started fine after I got home from school today. Ran completely fine, tried started it again after it got warmed up and it didn't want to even fire at all. From what I've seen from searches this would be the ICM. Gonna have it tested at oreillys tomorrow and then probably order one.

 

the problem with bench testing the ICM is it is not hot so it can test good.

fail start when engine is warm is a known ICM issue. Use heat sink paste behind the new ICM when you install it

 

Will do. Other than this little hiccup the car runs great and sounds mean as ****. Haven't tried driving it yet though because of the ICM issue.

 

Ran the car for about 20 minutes today, went out about an hour after I had let it run and noticed I had a pushrod jump out of the lifter cradle on the DS due to a loose rocker. Put it back in and tried starting it again, didn't fire at all (which is what I was expecting to happen because of the hot defective ICM) but the motor turned over fine and I got no strange noise. Installed the new ICM, the motor was firing but I got some GOD AWFUL grinding noise. The car would not start, I've searched and searched and so far what I'm seeing is most grinding issues come from the starter or the starter skipping teeth on the flywheel. VERY VERY VERY disappointing to get this far and run into a possibly very serious problem. I really appreciate all the support I've gotten from you guys, thanks for all the help.

 

Hopefully you broke some teeth off the starter instead of the flywheel, you are going to have to jack up the car and check the started to see, It would be nice if you had someone to crank while your up under looking at the starter, check for movement, could be a cracked starter, make sure you support the car on jack stands and a floor jack to be safe.

 

It's definitely not the starter, figured that out this morning. Tried starting it and it made the same noise. Plus it gave off some smoke. Here's a video, sorry I had no camera man. Not sure what to think at this point, the smoke definitely smelled electrical though. Could have a burnt wire some where. Will look at it after school today.

 

get the ICM swapped out and see if that resolves the hot no start issue.

Your battery may be getting low from all the start attempts with little charge time which can make the starter slow to engage/disengage. Might want to charge the battery if you can or at least check to see if it reads 12.8 vdc with motor not running