Yet another cam thread
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 168
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From: Wichita, KS
daily drivers:
My downfall was my failure to realize that the inside of an engine, is like the inside of a body. It must remain surgically clean when you open and change parts around inside it. You don't even want a fingerprint on a cam lobe to say the least. Furthermore, you have to really know how to use a torque wrench and be familiar with gaskets/gasket sealers, and the fitment and gentle procedure involved with some of the parts/seals. Without this prior knowledge, it is an enormous risk to open an engine in your only daily driver vehicle, as a student on a budget.
My downfall was my failure to realize that the inside of an engine, is like the inside of a body. It must remain surgically clean when you open and change parts around inside it. You don't even want a fingerprint on a cam lobe to say the least. Furthermore, you have to really know how to use a torque wrench and be familiar with gaskets/gasket sealers, and the fitment and gentle procedure involved with some of the parts/seals. Without this prior knowledge, it is an enormous risk to open an engine in your only daily driver vehicle, as a student on a budget.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 168
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From: Wichita, KS
Well guys, I pulled the trigger on the cam, stall, and gear swap. My plan/list stayed the same besides the camshaft and gears. Went with the Lunati voodoo 60121, 219/227 @ .050"-.549/.565 with 1.6 rr's. Decided to go with some Richmond 3.42's so my top end/high speed gas mileage won't suffer to bad. Also picked up a CSR ewp, a Cloyes c-306-k timing chain, and a 3" straight through magnaflow to replace the on3 bullet. Started on it tonight, Got the tb, water pump, fans, radiator, and the AC condensor off. Also decided to get it tuned through Moe, getting super excited to get this damn thing done! I will keep you all updated.
What about valve springs? I would of gone a little smaller on the lift on stock heads, When we had the shop, It seemed like stock heads liked around the .525 lift range. The duration seems to be a good choice for stock heads.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Wichita, KS
When I bought the car I rebuilt the top end because of a blown head gasket, while I had the heads off I installed a set of comp 918 .600" lift Springs and 1.6 roller rockers. I've put about 2,300 miles on the car since then. I don't plan to stay with the stock heads for very long so it should be okay until then.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 168
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From: Wichita, KS
Got the cam in the motor friday, did the sharpie on the valve stem process just now. Perfect line right down the middle of the valve with the adj pushrod tool set to 7.050" on cyl #1 at TDC. Just wondering if this sounds about right, heads were milled down .020" when I replaced the gaskets, Felpro gaskets were used after. Just don't wont to have to take it back down if I get the length wrong. Thanks
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 168
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From: Wichita, KS
Here are the pushrods I am looking at now...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...7050/overview/
I have 1.6 ratio self aligning rr's also, do I need guide plates also? Didn't think you needed guide plates with self aligning roller rockers.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...7050/overview/
I have 1.6 ratio self aligning rr's also, do I need guide plates also? Didn't think you needed guide plates with self aligning roller rockers.
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TECH Veteran
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7.050 -7.150 are common lengths when a H/C build with 7.050 on the shorter side
try 7.100 to compare results. Yes you want it centered on valve tip but also a narrow sweep. If for example the 7.100 length was "slightly" (read barely) on the exhaust side of the valve tip but a narrower sweep I would go with the 7.100.
Every build is different. Depends on how much block and/or heads were decked, head gasket thickness and cam
I use the same trick flow PR you posted, only in 7.100 length
Do not use guide plates if you have SA RR......with that said most, including me, run NSA RR with guide plates using ARP 7/16" studs vs the stock 3/8" size. If you have not purchased the RR yet than just get NSA and guide plates. I like, and use, the ISKY adjustable guide plates
try 7.100 to compare results. Yes you want it centered on valve tip but also a narrow sweep. If for example the 7.100 length was "slightly" (read barely) on the exhaust side of the valve tip but a narrower sweep I would go with the 7.100.
Every build is different. Depends on how much block and/or heads were decked, head gasket thickness and cam
I use the same trick flow PR you posted, only in 7.100 length
Do not use guide plates if you have SA RR......with that said most, including me, run NSA RR with guide plates using ARP 7/16" studs vs the stock 3/8" size. If you have not purchased the RR yet than just get NSA and guide plates. I like, and use, the ISKY adjustable guide plates
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 168
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From: Wichita, KS
Well guys, finally got the motor work done. Turned the motor over to check for valve clearance. Went to start it and it fired right up. Ran great, idled great, gave it a little gas and revved to about 3000 rpms. Car sounds great, shut the car off and all was well. Tried starting her backup heard a loud pop and that was it. Tried a few more times and she didn't even want to fire. I could smell fuel so it wasn't a fueling issue. Un did the ewp wiring and tried starting. Still nothing, any thoughts? I'm thinking it's the opti.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Wichita, KS
TECH Veteran
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ah...an "intermittent" problem. now it started but the "why" could be tough to chase.
It could be ICM. Generally they fail when "hot" vs cold start ups.
You have had motor apart so something you "put back on" could be the problem. carefully check the grounds right next to ICM/Coil on DS head. Give each of the 4 wires on the Opti harness a "little" tug to confirm if one wire is not crimped well. Often people pull on the wires vs the plug when un-cliping the Opti harness which can cause one of the wires to pull out of the pin.
your issue sounds more ignition/electrical related ...but did you check fuel pressure??
It could be ICM. Generally they fail when "hot" vs cold start ups.
You have had motor apart so something you "put back on" could be the problem. carefully check the grounds right next to ICM/Coil on DS head. Give each of the 4 wires on the Opti harness a "little" tug to confirm if one wire is not crimped well. Often people pull on the wires vs the plug when un-cliping the Opti harness which can cause one of the wires to pull out of the pin.
your issue sounds more ignition/electrical related ...but did you check fuel pressure??
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, KS
ah...an "intermittent" problem. now it started but the "why" could be tough to chase.
It could be ICM. Generally they fail when "hot" vs cold start ups.
You have had motor apart so something you "put back on" could be the problem. carefully check the grounds right next to ICM/Coil on DS head. Give each of the 4 wires on the Opti harness a "little" tug to confirm if one wire is not crimped well. Often people pull on the wires vs the plug when un-cliping the Opti harness which can cause one of the wires to pull out of the pin.
your issue sounds more ignition/electrical related ...but did you check fuel pressure??
It could be ICM. Generally they fail when "hot" vs cold start ups.
You have had motor apart so something you "put back on" could be the problem. carefully check the grounds right next to ICM/Coil on DS head. Give each of the 4 wires on the Opti harness a "little" tug to confirm if one wire is not crimped well. Often people pull on the wires vs the plug when un-cliping the Opti harness which can cause one of the wires to pull out of the pin.
your issue sounds more ignition/electrical related ...but did you check fuel pressure??
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 168
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From: Wichita, KS
Will do. Other than this little hiccup the car runs great and sounds mean as ****. Haven't tried driving it yet though because of the ICM issue.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 168
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From: Wichita, KS
Help!!!!! 
I really appreciate all the support I've gotten from you guys, thanks for all the help. Hopefully you broke some teeth off the starter instead of the flywheel, you are going to have to jack up the car and check the started to see, It would be nice if you had someone to crank while your up under looking at the starter, check for movement, could be a cracked starter, make sure you support the car on jack stands and a floor jack to be safe.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, KS
Hopefully you broke some teeth off the starter instead of the flywheel, you are going to have to jack up the car and check the started to see, It would be nice if you had someone to crank while your up under looking at the starter, check for movement, could be a cracked starter, make sure you support the car on jack stands and a floor jack to be safe.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
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get the ICM swapped out and see if that resolves the hot no start issue.
Your battery may be getting low from all the start attempts with little charge time which can make the starter slow to engage/disengage. Might want to charge the battery if you can or at least check to see if it reads 12.8 vdc with motor not running
Your battery may be getting low from all the start attempts with little charge time which can make the starter slow to engage/disengage. Might want to charge the battery if you can or at least check to see if it reads 12.8 vdc with motor not running