atlantadan

Do you have an IR laser thermometer? I would think that if something underhood was drawing that sort of amperage that it would generate heat - even if the car wasn't running but the key was on. Maybe poke around underhood and in the main & aux fuse panels with the thermometer and see what you see. If you have a subsystem pulling power, those fuses and/or relays will be hotter than the rest. Do you have any stereo gear or anything else that may be pulling current down?

Have you checked your grounds? There's more than one, if I am not mistaken.

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

I do have a sub/amp in the hatch but have not even hooked up the power wiring since the swap. It is disconnected before it gets to the battery.

The ones I have checked are the battery to ground next to the positive terminal box (new wire), the main ground from the batter to the block (new wire) and then the passenger side frame coming from the ICM/coil (didnt replace this but cleaning both ends and the wire itself since its copper braided). Am I missing any?

ACE1252

Still seems to be too much load on the compression strokes for some reason....or voltage/current issues when on the compression strokes.

Are you sure the pistons aren't hitting any valves?

Pull all the spark plugs and pull the PCM fuse(to disable the injectors) from the fuse box in the dash. Film how it cranks like that.

atlantadan

Repeating from above

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Just encountered a bad alternator experience. I had videos showing the comparison on the volt gauge between the two, but deleted them. When running the bad alternator was displaying 12.3 volts on a volt meter. That was enough for the gauge to be in the red while running. New one produces 14.5 and is close to 3/4 up on the gauge. Just FYI.

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so I am bringing my post up from the dead. I replaced a lot of items and improved the crank, but still did not make it perfect, but the car would start. Well i was recently doing some work where I needed to remove the alternator, put it all back together and the motor was cranking perfectly but not starting. I quickly realized I didnt hear the fuel pump prime and realized I forgot to hook up the alternator plug in and alternator power wire with the power wire to the fuel pump after installing a walbro pump and wire harness. Once I plugged these in, I then had the issue with the slow crank and voltage drop.

Does this mean that I have a short in either the aftermarket fuel pump wiring (done a few years ago) or the alternator plug in? How do I troubleshoot this to figure it out?

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Any ideas? Hoping this can help narrow it down.