Heads and Cam HELP
- Christian
You can remove the motor with a cherry picker, well, you remove the body from the motor. This is done often and pictures explain it better than words can.
If you are doing H/C on a 71k bottom end, I would leave it be and just swap H/C. Once you open up the bottom end for "inspection" its not gonna be the same it was before.
Biggest advice I can give, find a GOOD LT1 local tuner now before touching a single bolt.
Congrats on the 95 buy. I am sure others will respond to what is the better method of pulling the motor (top or bottom). I have a B-body LT1
Good decision on the LE H/C package
On the yes/no on some of your ?'s, IMHO
oil pump. Keep the stock one and get the GM White spring for it. Replace the OP drive shaft with a ARP or Mellig solid one
Injectors. With the LE2 H/C, yes. 30# Ford SVO's (red top) would be good.
Fuel pump. Try it with the stock pump. If FP holds while doing SUSTAINED WOT than it is keeping up. What most of us find it doesn't (its over 20 years old) and replace with a Walbro 255. Nothing wrong with just doing it up front but $ being tight it won't hurt to start with it. I will add having a FP gauge with a hose long enough to tape the gauge to windshield should be in your toolbox
Ignition Coil. Stock is fine. Some feel the 96 is better but you need the coil/opti wire specific to the 96
AC Delco or Delphi Opti Spark. If yours works, keep it. If it is the original it is a true AC Delco. Like any distributor the cap & rotor are wear items and at your mileage I would get a MSD cap & rotor. Use blue Loc-Tite on rotor screws
You will need a PCM tune for the H/C & injectors
Don't know if you are A4 or T56 but drive-line will want attention also to keep up with the motor mods
You should get the trans rebuilt or find one that is for sale that is rebuild by a reputable builder (4L60e's are not the greatest in stock form). Check out ltx tech as there is a reputable builder on that site that is very reasonable for pricing on the trans/converter. I would try to do this right the first time as it would be no fun to get the car together and then it be down when the transmission goes and if you spend money on a good converter it will likely be ruined as well. Get a good converter and trans rebuild with a trans cooler and you will have a reliable fun setup with your new power. The car should easily run 11's and the high 11x mph range on drag radials with the mods you are planning.
Another piece of advice is talk to the experts. Lloyd is a great resource and he can give you plenty of sound advice on what you will need and what you can wait for as it pertains to the engine. There are many others in the ltx community that are great resources. Read up and gather info and make your decisions based on other's experiences.
I was in the same boat as you when I started building my car way back in the late 90's. Do as much of the work yourself as you stated and you will learn so much more about everything in general that you can apply to all vehicles in the future.
Most importantly is too have fun with the build and take lots of pics. You will have some great memories of the process that will stick with you forever (Some will be the frustrating kind...lol)
Also, engine removal. Highly unecessary to put the back wheels on blocks and jacking the front end to the ceiling. You can take the engine out of the bottom with the back wheels on the ground. Only catch is you may have to take the air dam off. Use two quality floor jacks on both sides of the chassis, jacking points should be just behind the plastic pads and use two blocks of 2X4 on each jack and a furniture dolly to rest engine and k-member while pulling out from underneath. Rent an engine hoist to transfer engine from k-member to stand. Some make it far more difficult than it has to be.










