Will I cause problems to my cooling system by looping water pump heater core outlets together and gutting my thermostat, by gutting I mean cutting off everything below the top part of the tstat?

 

Looping the hoses is ok, but modifying the thermostat will cause the system to work improperly. The thermostat is needed to make the coolant flow to the right ports.

 

Would it help to plug the bottom port inside the water pump where the tstat would normally bottom out at?

 

Getting rid of your thermostat can cause many problems. If your coolant is always flowing it can not efficiently cool the motor as there isn't enough time for it to extract the heat from the motor nor time for the radiator to dissipate the heat from the coolant. The engineers put it there for a reason. If you want to run cooler, I would go with a 160 Thermo. They work excellent

 

Why do you want to fool with the function of the thermostat? I can't think of any obvious reason to mess with it.

 

Engine has high compression, and I noticed when idling the temp was raising above 220, that's with a 160 tstat and fan coming on. I don't daily drive, car was built for strip and street, more strip but when I decide to cruise I don't want temp to be problematic which is why I'm inquiring.

 

Have you burped the system might have an air pocket, mine sat for a week while waiting for my base tune. I have to burp mine, Temps are getting that high as well. Ive had the issue before and every time I burp the system the problem goes away.

 

A properly functioning thermostat will give you no issues. Are your fans reprogrammed? Stock fans don't even come on until 226°.

 

is the little flow limiter thing needed for the cooling system? I've always wandered would it really make a difference removing it. I know water is always flowing to the heater core so... either way wouldn't it be like running the heat?

 

No I haven't burped the system, didn't know that I would need to do so. I'm not running a heater core, instead the hoses are looped at the wp. And I'm not quite sure what temp the fan is programmed to come on at, but my car has been tuned for well over 5 years, so...

 

Go to shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html website. He has a ton of info. Its a reverse cooling system so it gets air pockets real easy. Start it up, let it get to operating temperature, pop your hood with it running look down at the cooling lines running to your Thermostat, there are tow lines with bleeder screws, open one up at a time and once coolant starts coming out close it, repeat with the other and all the air should be out of the system. Sometimes you dont need to do both and other times its needed depending on the air pockets location. Make sure you top the coolant off after as it will drop a little bit.

EDIT: I just re read what you wrote, I hope I fully understand what your are saying. But if you opened up the system and then added coolant after you looped the heater hose lines it would cause and air pocket most likely. Seems like I get one everytime I drain the system and re fill it when im turning a wrench on my car.

 

Proper refill procedure is a must for the LT1 to eliminate air pockets. You need to find out what temps your fans are programmed for.