'95 Z28 LT1 - cracked a head, considering getting a port job
06-21-2004, 01:30 PM
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'95 Z28 LT1 - cracked a head, considering getting a port job Hello,
I read the prev threads but, I have a diff set of circumstances
.
I have a ’95 Z-28 A4 which I have owned for last 8yrs (now with 112K mi) 3K oil & air filter changes w/ Mobil 1. I have recently changed the opti, plugs (AC-Delco’s), moroso wires (blue max), water pump, and new gm timing chain (factory replacement). The rest is as it came off the line. I have not ran this car “hard” but has seen numerous roll-ons and burn-outs over the last 8yrs! I have recently cracked a head (which I thought was a blown head gasket and the **** poor shop I used to check for didn’t catch) so I bought a block and heads from the same year. I am planning to rebuild the bottom end when I either get the rest of the funds or have to do so. I have to start with the heads! What suggestion do you folks have given this info.
1. I am seriously considering getting a port job from a person whom has experience with porting the Aluminum LT-1 Heads and the person whom recommended him says he does a lot of work for the local 1/8 mi track
.
2. What type of machine work is recommended as to the valve job
?
3. I have to get the car going because I am using a loaner
.
4. What about the rest of the valve train (very serious about the head work) to match the port-work?
5. Anything else that should be considered at this point.
6. After the heads are done I will be doing the bolt-on stuff (sounds back wards and it is). Provided that the bottom end does not fail. The person whom is helping me is an ASC Mech and says the cylinder wall look great for all that matters.
This posting probably sound like it is from a newby and it is! All comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated
!
I read the prev threads but, I have a diff set of circumstances
.I have a ’95 Z-28 A4 which I have owned for last 8yrs (now with 112K mi) 3K oil & air filter changes w/ Mobil 1. I have recently changed the opti, plugs (AC-Delco’s), moroso wires (blue max), water pump, and new gm timing chain (factory replacement). The rest is as it came off the line. I have not ran this car “hard” but has seen numerous roll-ons and burn-outs over the last 8yrs! I have recently cracked a head (which I thought was a blown head gasket and the **** poor shop I used to check for didn’t catch) so I bought a block and heads from the same year. I am planning to rebuild the bottom end when I either get the rest of the funds or have to do so. I have to start with the heads! What suggestion do you folks have given this info.
1. I am seriously considering getting a port job from a person whom has experience with porting the Aluminum LT-1 Heads and the person whom recommended him says he does a lot of work for the local 1/8 mi track
.2. What type of machine work is recommended as to the valve job
? 3. I have to get the car going because I am using a loaner
.4. What about the rest of the valve train (very serious about the head work) to match the port-work?
5. Anything else that should be considered at this point.
6. After the heads are done I will be doing the bolt-on stuff (sounds back wards and it is). Provided that the bottom end does not fail. The person whom is helping me is an ASC Mech and says the cylinder wall look great for all that matters.
This posting probably sound like it is from a newby and it is! All comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated
! 
06-21-2004, 02:04 PM
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The only thing I'd tell you to do is spend the money on the stuff that is easy to get to while the motor is out 
In other words, if you had plans for a head/cam combo, now would be the optimal time to do it while you are having the new motor built as oppose to having to take all the crap apart while it's in the car. Depeding on the porter, you could pick up some decent cfm with just a valve job but if you have the cash, then like I said, spend it now while everything is easily access. Bolt ons are just that, stuff that can be bolted on later.
I think thats the direction your post was going but it was a little difficult to follow.
In other words, if you had plans for a head/cam combo, now would be the optimal time to do it while you are having the new motor built as oppose to having to take all the crap apart while it's in the car. Depeding on the porter, you could pick up some decent cfm with just a valve job but if you have the cash, then like I said, spend it now while everything is easily access. Bolt ons are just that, stuff that can be bolted on later.I think thats the direction your post was going but it was a little difficult to follow.
06-21-2004, 03:12 PM
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Personally I don't think you need bigger valves - you see ported head packages advertised with 2" intake and 1.56" exhaust, but you can get good flow number with stock sized valves. You were asking about valvetrain, but it's relatively easy to swap the stock parts with 1.6 roller rockers and better springs (just remove the valve covers) while the engine is in the car. Like Big Show said, concentrate on things which are much easier to work on while the engine is out. Just do the ported heads/cam and save the rest until funds become available
