Engine Priming?
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Launching!
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Engine Priming? I recently had a local engine builder rebuild me an lt1 and he primed the oil pump for me. This was on October 30. Do I have to prime the oil pump again if I plan on installing it on the week of thanksgiving?
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From: Tucker, GA
Lots of builders prime it to check for oil flowing where it should (like up to the rockers) before they button it up.
At this point it'll be just like any other engine that's sat for a month. If you can get to the oil pump and prime it now, it won't hurt - that's for sure.
At this point it'll be just like any other engine that's sat for a month. If you can get to the oil pump and prime it now, it won't hurt - that's for sure.
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unfortunately now that the engine is in the car, the only way other than taking the intake off is to crank it with the starter, but make sure to pull the fuse for the injectors and unplug the coil, but dont crank it for minutes at a time, do it in short cycles. also it would be better to pull of of the plugs to make the engine spin faster.
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with a SBC prime tool. It is a rod that connects to the oil pump and you use a drill. You need to remove the intake and oil pump drive gear and drive rod. Then use the prime rod tool & a drill. I have had one in my tool box for many years. It was around $10
or just use the starter as suggested since the motor is buttoned up & installed
you can just hook up a oil pressure gauge to confirm you have oil pressure when you do the "starter" method. Once you have oil pressure you are good
or just use the starter as suggested since the motor is buttoned up & installed
you can just hook up a oil pressure gauge to confirm you have oil pressure when you do the "starter" method. Once you have oil pressure you are good
Why can't you pull the oil sensor out, and use a compressed air tank with oil in it to prime the engine? thats how I primed my last couple anyways. You need a special tank for this, most engine rebuilders have it though, I thought
I have a video of doing it to one of my engines if you need to see what I mean.
I have a video of doing it to one of my engines if you need to see what I mean.
you can just hook up a oil pressure gauge to confirm you have oil pressure when you do the "starter" method. Once you have oil pressure you are good
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Kernersville, NC
Why not just pull the PCM fuse and crank it over with the starter until you see pressure on the oil gauge in the dash? Especially if it was assembled with assembly lube.....I seriously doubt it's going to go anywhere in a months time.
There has been a time or two where I haven't driven my Z for a couple of months....I use the above procedure to prime the engine before lighting it off. Haven't had any trouble yet.
After putting new bearings in mine(cam, crank, & rods), assembled with assembly lube, the engine sat for a couple of months. I primed it as above and had no issues.
I did change the oil after running for about 20 minutes at idle.
There has been a time or two where I haven't driven my Z for a couple of months....I use the above procedure to prime the engine before lighting it off. Haven't had any trouble yet.
After putting new bearings in mine(cam, crank, & rods), assembled with assembly lube, the engine sat for a couple of months. I primed it as above and had no issues.
I did change the oil after running for about 20 minutes at idle.
Last edited by ACE1252; Nov 16, 2016 at 10:29 PM.
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From: PDX-OR-USA
You can also prime the motor with a piece of hose to the Oil filter mount and a funnel.
As long as the gerotor pump is lubed up it will literally fill all the oil galleys in a second even at cranking speeds, Ever had a filter fail? it will literally empty the entire sump in < 3 seconds... I had a 1.2 liter Datsun motor do it.. Was awe inspiring where it blew the oil under the hood... Thought I'd never get the mess cleaned up..
As long as the gerotor pump is lubed up it will literally fill all the oil galleys in a second even at cranking speeds, Ever had a filter fail? it will literally empty the entire sump in < 3 seconds... I had a 1.2 liter Datsun motor do it.. Was awe inspiring where it blew the oil under the hood... Thought I'd never get the mess cleaned up..
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Little Rock, AR
You can also prime the motor with a piece of hose to the Oil filter mount and a funnel.
As long as the gerotor pump is lubed up it will literally fill all the oil galleys in a second even at cranking speeds, Ever had a filter fail? it will literally empty the entire sump in < 3 seconds... I had a 1.2 liter Datsun motor do it.. Was awe inspiring where it blew the oil under the hood... Thought I'd never get the mess cleaned up..
As long as the gerotor pump is lubed up it will literally fill all the oil galleys in a second even at cranking speeds, Ever had a filter fail? it will literally empty the entire sump in < 3 seconds... I had a 1.2 liter Datsun motor do it.. Was awe inspiring where it blew the oil under the hood... Thought I'd never get the mess cleaned up..
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From: Wilmington, De
The engine was already primed a couple weeks ago. At that point, it is just an engine that has been sitting for a few weeks, and nobody on this planet re-primes their engine after it has been sitting except for one guy, and he happened to respond in this thread. You'll be fine to fire it up and break it in.
The engine was already primed a couple weeks ago. At that point, it is just an engine that has been sitting for a few weeks, and nobody on this planet re-primes their engine after it has been sitting except for one guy, and he happened to respond in this thread. You'll be fine to fire it up and break it in.
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If motor is still out of the car you would need to pull the intake manifold and oil pump drive gear & shaft and use a SBC prime tool on a drill
I use this one and yes in application it says not for LT1/4...because you need to take the intake manifold off.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-3795g
if engine is in car now than as mentioned you would need to use a R hand drill. prime in clockwise direction
or just pull fuse for injectors, hook up a oil pressure gauge and crank with starter a few times until you have oil pressure
if your builder re-used the stock oil pump drive shaft...I would pull intake and replace it with a solid ARP one. The plastic collar, when old, can crack/break on re-install
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From: Little Rock, AR
Please don't start this crap again.