As seen in my uploaded pic i tried to slide the intake on the cut studs with my nice beads of rtv and it was a disaster. The intake wouldnt allign on the studs then it would drop down on one stud and screw up the bead of rtv. Any tips or advice on dropping a intake straight down onto the rtv beads. My attempt was a pure Murphys law failure.

 

Ive always done it with no studs. If you can get a friend thats a plus. If you wanted put in on dry put a piece of blue tape on intake and one on say the timing cover and line it up when putting on.

 

Also just put mine back on with no studs. I was just really careful where I placed it down and did the back end first. Went on easy first time

 

Your mistake was putting studs on both sides. Because of the angle, the intake will not go over them. If you use studs on one side only (like my website says ), you won't have that problem.

 

What shbox says, also make sure you let the RTV "Skin" over before placing the intake on, a lot of people put the RTV then slap on the intake, and at times it can squeeze out the RTV causing a void..

 

How long should i let the rtv skin over before dropping the intake on? Also i will try just the two studs on one side. Thanks !!!!

 

RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing so it depends on the room temp, just let sit so when your touch it, its not gooey and sticking to your fingers, I would run a bead and use that as your test sample and not on the intake.

 

Get another set of hands, it really helps balancing that thing. Put the studs on one side as mentioned above. If I remember correctly, even with the studs on one side, I think you need to get the back on first but it might be the front because I had issues with the oil sending unit holding me up back there, I'd do a dry test fit if you could to see how it goes before putting on any RTV. Be careful of the studs because they'll scratch the intake.

Another thing to be careful of is when removing the old gaskets, the mounting dowels sometime break off in the head and you need to remove them. There was a little piece of the plastic dowel stuck in one of the holes I missed and the new gasket didn't seat properly which wasn't noticeable by eye, I didn't notice unitl I got to the last 2 bolts and they wouldn't align. You could imagine my frustration when I had to pull it back off and clean up the tacky RTV and do it again.

Speaking of RTV, I used Permatex Copper or Gold or whatever they call it because of its high temperature rating for the EGR, it looks like the same color as the stuff you're using. I didn't let it skin over before mounting the intake but I did put it on soft and wait an hour before torqueing it as the package said. I did that in June and it's already starting to weak a little by the EGR pipe. Thankfully it doesn't drip like it did before. Some say it's the heat coming off the EGR pipe, some say it's because I used the Permatex Copper/Gold instead of the Black which is made for oil. I say I need to build my 383 already so I can properly delete the damn EGR and I'll probably just run a bead of black and maybe cut a piece of gasket paper to put in the valley. Just something to consider if you still have the EGR.

 

350

what ever method you use to set the intake (studs, 2 people or with no studs and by yourself) it needs to land "dead nuts" in place as any front/back movement will push the RTV off the china walls and a leak is assured.

Your intake gaskets should still be good unless you have already TQ the intake down some already. If you are changing them I would get the FelPro "printo" seal ones. I always use Permatex Black "ultra" for the intake and never had it leak EVER.

I would not put any larger bead (read 1/4"-3/8" max) than what is in your pic. let it skim over some (15 min) and then drop intake on and TQ in the 2 pass sequence. Then let sit overnight so RTV can cure before starting.

 

Thanks for all the advice. Hopefully the second time around it goes on good!

 

What I have done is stand on the drivers side of the car, cup the middle/underside of the intake with the left hand while making sure the harness is clear with the right. I then grab either the EGR or EGR studs (if there is no EGR) with the right hand and the TB holes with the left and lower slowly. It's always good to have an extra set of eyes making sure no clips or wires get in the way. What is the most important out of all of this is letting the sealant cure before starting the engine. I let it dry for at least 12 hours and more when it's cold.

 

Excellent advice, i will try that method once my 4 month old says its okay for me to go play in the garage!

 

How would i go about pulling the old plastic intake locator tabs out of the head so the new ones will insert?

 

IDK if those holes are blind or not. I would suspect using a small pick would work. I have straight & angled ones I got in the $1 bin at Harbor Freight. A paper clip should also work

if one of the holes does not have a broken tab in it, stick a paper clip or something in it to see if it is blind or goes into something. If blind you should be able to pick them out

 

I always take a small drill bit to them. Turn the bit slowly so it gets just enough into the plastic to get it out.

 

Typically they break right at the top so a careful pair of fingers or needle nose plyers can get them out. The issue I had where it kept the intake from seating properly was cause by one that broke halfway down so I couldn't see it and didn't look off to the eye. After not being able to get it out with a pair of tweezers, I simply cut the dowel on the new gasket halfway down so it still held it in place but it wasn't contacting the piece that was in there. It sat fine after that.

 

Geometry and physics was not your friend on this one. Use studs on one side.

 

Try #2 was the ticket. Studs on one side and it dropped straight down. Good rtv smear on the front. Torqued to 35lbs with high temp thread sealant on the bolts.

 

I see you have completed your install but for any future people installing their intake manifold and reading this thread, here's a tip someone once gave me. Before putting the RTV on the block, take a fine punch and hammer and put light dimples in the block surface and intake manifold surface where they will meet. Nothing crazy and nothing towards the edge of the block or manifold. It helps give the RTV something to grab onto. Been doing it that way for 10 years without a single leak.

 

I super glued a rubber strip on each china wall and rtv where the rubber meets the intake gasket.. Never had a leak.. I also done the same with my cousins Trans Am.. No leaks also..