LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Help Me With Cam Decision... PLEASE :)

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Old Jun 23, 2004 | 06:14 PM
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Default Help Me With Cam Decision... PLEASE :)

Well at first I was going to go with "Hot Cam" but I was told I can get more power with other cams and remain legal (pass emissions). I want to know from experience or from you experts what is the best cam that will still pass emissions.

Please refrain from the usual comments like, "you can buy a sticker, get a bigger cam". I don't want to have to "buy" a sticker every year, I have been through that.

I have stock heads and I have LT1 Edit to tune the computer. I will probably in the future get a stall, but will run with stock till then.

This is what I have been told:
If you don't pick up the hot cam, I'd personally go for something around 224/230 on a 112 lsa, and run a 3200-3600 RPM converter..

The 305 is a 220/230 on a 114, so it will idle quite a bit smoother and tolerate a smaller converter.


I have been leaning toward the 224/230 112 lsa but here are my questions:
1. Has anyone passed Texas emissions with this cam?

2. How bad will the low-end power be without a converter?

3. Should I choose this over the CC 305?

If you have any other cam suggestions, let me know what and why it is better that these two.

Thank You in Advance Guys!
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Old Jun 23, 2004 | 08:15 PM
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the 224/230 is also available on a 114lsa grind, which would probably suit you better than the 112 lsa. It should run relatively fine without a converter, but i have no experience there so I can't say much.
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 10:51 AM
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I have the 224/230.112 on a heads cam package and it passed emissions here in texas(harris county) where they put a sniffer up the exhaust pipe. It is a nice cam for a stock headed car, but if you are going with heads in the near future, go bigger. power doesnt drop till about 6300 rpm's which is about where I would want to have the rev limiter set on a stock bottom end LT1. Its a good power producing, lopey sounding cam that is a good all around performer for bolt on cars.
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 11:41 AM
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I have to agree with Gangly. I ran the CC305, and while it passed emissions, it had issues with power dropping off.
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Gangly
I have the 224/230.112 on a heads cam package and it passed emissions here in texas(harris county) where they put a sniffer up the exhaust pipe. It is a nice cam for a stock headed car, but if you are going with heads in the near future, go bigger. power doesnt drop till about 6300 rpm's which is about where I would want to have the rev limiter set on a stock bottom end LT1. Its a good power producing, lopey sounding cam that is a good all around performer for bolt on cars.
Yeah, I live in the Houston area. So your passed? Who did your computer tuning? You think it will still have pretty good low end torque with out the converter? It sounds like a pretty bad *** cam.

Hey what's up Aries, I was thinking of getting that 305 from you till I started looking around. The 224/230 seems to be the cam of choice.
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 12:18 PM
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I have the 224/230 cam 112 lsa currently. I'll be selling it when I get my new cam installed. I just don't know when that will be!
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 12:22 PM
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A guy in Texas, Jordan Musser, will port your heads to match that cam. As we all know if you want to make power your heads and cam have to be perfectly matched. His website is www.musserracing.com . Good Luck

Rich
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 94Formula/TA
A guy in Texas, Jordan Musser, will port your heads to match that cam. As we all know if you want to make power your heads and cam have to be perfectly matched. His website is www.musserracing.com . Good Luck

Rich
Yeah, he is on CZ28.com a lot. He lives in the College station area I think. How much does he charge to do a set usually?

Thanks,
Jayme
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 12:45 PM
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I have no tuning done to my computer. I just put the heads and cam on, started it up, drove it easy for a while while the computer learned the baic info needed, got in it a lil harder here and there, and finally started romping on it after about 500 miles(which is proper cam break in anyways). The cam is pretty small and the computer can easily learn the basic parameters, but a proper tune is ideal and would definately provide more HP, though not neccessary. I dropped in tq but its because my heads are ported too much for that cam(like previously mentioned, best bet is to get a cam matched for your heads). The cam is perfect for stock heads with boltons, but too small otherwise in my opinion.
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Gangly
I have no tuning done to my computer. I just put the heads and cam on, started it up, drove it easy for a while while the computer learned the baic info needed, got in it a lil harder here and there, and finally started romping on it after about 500 miles(which is proper cam break in anyways). The cam is pretty small and the computer can easily learn the basic parameters, but a proper tune is ideal and would definately provide more HP, though not neccessary. I dropped in tq but its because my heads are ported too much for that cam(like previously mentioned, best bet is to get a cam matched for your heads). The cam is perfect for stock heads with boltons, but too small otherwise in my opinion.
So off the line it was kinda slugish? You think with my stock heads it will be okay till I get a Stall? OH... You got any sound clips of the cam? I have heard a couple. Just courious.
Thanks BTW,
Jayme
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 02:36 PM
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well with all due respect to your passing emmissions goal, etc I'll refrain from recommending my wild *** setup ...but I do have a question for ya, what year is your car and are you OBD I or II? Your using LT1 Edit I assume?
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by BRETTINATOR
well with all due respect to your passing emmissions goal, etc I'll refrain from recommending my wild *** setup ...but I do have a question for ya, what year is your car and are you OBD I or II? Your using LT1 Edit I assume?
Yep, 95 ODBI LT1 Edit.
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 07:21 PM
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Lemme rephrase that, my torque didnt actually drop...it stayed at the very same place it was before the heads cam install while the HP jumped up considerably. I had 332.x tq before the cam install and had 332.x after the install, so when i said that i lost tq, i should have said that I lost potential tq that i could of had if i had gone to a larger, completely custom cam because of my heads flow charactoristics(thats an opinion so you can take that for what its worth). Car felt exactly the same down low as it did before the swap, but much stronger on the big end after the swap.

ps im starting to sound like a newbie, gonna have to be more accurate with what i type and get rid of these not-thought-through, semi-correct replies

Last edited by Gangly; Jun 24, 2004 at 07:30 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2004 | 09:07 AM
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Gangly,
Sorry if I didn't get the big picture but, are you running the stock stall with the cc305? I am in a similar situation as Zmefly with the stall situation. I cracked a head on my 95 LT1 a4 and am having the second set ported by a someone whom comes very highly recommened. They are suppost to flow something pretty close to anything that you can buy aftermarket. I plan a full build later on the bottom later and polish it off with a custom grind to match but due to the funds this may be a year or so in the doing. Thanks.
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Old Jun 25, 2004 | 11:16 AM
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Gangly is running the 224/230 on a 112LSA. His car runs great, but is a 6 speed, not an auto.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 11:07 AM
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I've got the 224/230 cam on 112lsa but with a 3500stall and 4.10gears.
IMO, the cam makes all it's power down low and pulls decent up top. I
also had to do a custom tune because it ran like crap on the stock tune,
but my car is speed density. You won't be disappointed with this cam.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 12:54 PM
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with an auto you will prolly need a tune, especially with a higher stall. tq should be very good on stock heads and boltons.
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 10:26 AM
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Okay, so I guess I will go with the 224/230 112lsa. What all do I need for the install? What all should I change out? Where is the best place (price and service) to get it from?

Thanks for all your help guys! And if anyone (in Houston area) is willing to help me with the install, I will supply the beer.
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 05:58 PM
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the sponsors to the right will be able to get you one. I bought mine from racenet.net and I'm very pleased with the service they provided.
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ZMEFLY
Okay, so I guess I will go with the 224/230 112lsa. What all do I need for the install? What all should I change out? Where is the best place (price and service) to get it from?
You only need a basic mechanics tool set and some decent knowledge of the lt1. You will need a new timing set(no problem since you have a vented opti), lifters, pushrods, rockers(up to you), valve springs that can handle the lift on your cam. If you want I could point you in the direction of some decent install guides.

Rich
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