LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

How does oil get into an OPtispark?

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Old Feb 21, 2017 | 02:30 PM
  #21  
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the long 4 pin connector that goes into the top of the Opti does have a accordian rubber seal on it. Dialectic grease helps to seal it even better

But yeah the Opti is not a 100% sealed unit and oil or coolant can get in it from TC seal, wp or china wall casket/seal leaks
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 10:18 AM
  #22  
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Well I am going for broke. I cleaned the opti up and RTV'd the **** out of including the plug on top. Hooked a vacuum pump to it. It does not hold a continuous vacuum but rather has a slow bleed down. Not sure if even a new opti is absolutely air-tight.

If it does not run right. Im just gonna replace it. Will know this weekend. Thanks again guys.
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 01:44 PM
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If you end up replacing it, silicone the new one as well. It doesn't need to be pressure tight, but it sure as hell helps a lot more than those regular O-rings.
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 05:54 PM
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No go. Opti is dead. COnstant code 15 so I will assume that the sensor is damaged.
****.
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Old Apr 12, 2017 | 12:23 PM
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An update guys.

Turned out my original Delco opti likely was not bad afterall. I ended up getting an Advanced Auto Parts Opti w/ lifetime warranty for $112 and decided to roll the dice. Car still ran like crap.

I replaced the plugs even though they looked fine and then OHM checked the plug wires. Number 7 was giving a very flaky reading so I pulled the boot of and clearly the conductor was not well crimped at the terminal. I re-crimped it and the OHM check went as expected.

Car is now running good again and I will just hope for the best with the AAP Opti. But so far so good. I also noticed one other very nice benefit. I now have perfect 128/128 BLMs at idle. They used to be slightly split down around the 122-124 range.

While I was in there. I also replaced the water pump for the Hell of it since the original one was so old and obviously the Opti seal in the timing cover.

Thanks for all of the assistance.
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Old Apr 12, 2017 | 02:01 PM
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Good. Now get it to the track and run some 11's.
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Old Apr 12, 2017 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
Good. Now get it to the track and run some 11's.
Cant do it. Its a a turd...remember.
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Old Apr 12, 2017 | 02:51 PM
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Not according to your dyno sheet. I ran 12.0's at 115 with 370rwhp and 350lbtq at 3750lb race weight. You should definitely be in the 11's. LPE < LE!11
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Old Apr 12, 2017 | 03:07 PM
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One thing that hurts me is its heavy. I once weighed it on a truck scale and race weight was 4040 pounds. I guess the duals, 9" rear, stereo equipment and spare add up to a couple hundred or so. Its really all fun street car now days.

It ran 12.5 @ 114 w/ a 2.3 60ft IIRC many years ago but I could not launch it for ****. Im sure a good driver could come real close to 11's like you say.
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Old Dec 6, 2024 | 02:46 PM
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Amazon Amazon

Would adding something like a simple check valve on the vacuum lines to the Optispark help to keep oil and moisture from getting down through the vacuum lines into the Optispark?
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Old Dec 7, 2024 | 08:31 AM
  #31  
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There is a already a check valve on the vacuum supply line as stock. Oil and moisture does not enter from there, unless the lines are compromised.
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Old Dec 9, 2024 | 03:31 PM
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Oil can enter Opti through either the cap/base area or through its bearing. Good cap and O ring with a skim coat of dialectic grease resolves any oil entry through cap/case seam. Bearing wear though will allow small amount of oil to enter that way. Periodic cleaning of inside of opti is required if that is happening

As mentioned, vacuum harness has check valve...although if clogged or reversed will cause condensation to build up inside and kill opti
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Old Dec 11, 2024 | 10:15 AM
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From: Jackstandican
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Originally Posted by ******
Periodic cleaning of inside of opti is required if that is happening

If going through the trouble of removing/cleaning the opti, why not go ahead and fix the source of the problem instead of treating the cause?
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Old Dec 20, 2024 | 02:39 PM
  #34  
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tbh... they weak oil thought the pressed fit shaft due to heat changes.. I have been told to put a small amout of silicone under the distributor rotor.I did this back when i did an ignition upgrade.
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