Currently LE1 heads and cam looking for a new bottom end. Local machine shop quoted me 2200 for a 355 short block with stock rods /w arp bolts and hyper eutectic pistons and he will build it into a long block with my parts. Says if I want forged pistons he would do seal power DCB forged piston for 450 more. He quoted me 1744.50 for building a 355 long block with my parts. I think this 2200 is a decent price for a getting a engine ready to throw in my car but part of me wants some forged pistons in this build. Just looking for the best way to spend money and im also confused as what is really needed for the oiling system for a new short block, can I reuse any parts from the old block?

If im building my own so far I have

Labor+machine work 1744.50

short block parts
ARP Main Stud Kits 134-5502 - 75.57
ARP Rod Bolt Kits 135-6005 - 77.46
Freeze Plugs - ?
Cam Bearing - 35 with freeze plugs
CB663P Clevite P-Series Rod Bearings - 25 total
Clevite P-Series Main Bearings MS909P - 32.97
Total - 246

Gaskets
Fel-Pro BS40520 Rear Main Seals - 17.91
Felpro Timing Cover Gasket TCS45956 - 12
Fel-Pro Intake Manifold Gaskets MS95580 - 16
Fel-Pro Oil Pan Gaskets OS34500R - 20.65
Fel-Pro Performance Head Gaskets 1074 x2 - 85
Head bolts - ?
Total - 151.56

oil system
Melling Performance Oil Pumps 10554 - 94.56
Moroso Oil Pan Baffle 23000 - 12
Pioneer 839061 Oil Pump Screen Fastener - 22.36/// 18 on ebay
Chevrolet Performance Oil Pump Pickups 12550042 - 20.97
Total - 145.54
Overall total - 2287.60

And this is with no pistons picked out, does this seem about right to anyone? some advice on any of this is def appreciated. Also seems like I need a new clutch so im probably gonna get the autozone oem clutch set cause at this point my wallet is starting to hurt but im tired of seeing the car just sitting

 

You don't need forged unless you are going to use nitrous or FI at some point. If you aren't going that route what you can do to save some money is have the shop measure your bores and see if you can get away with just a light hone and reuse the stock pistons. Just a thought.

 

Although I like the idea of adding nitrous later it probably wont happen. What would be a good standard piston and a good forged piston to choose for this motor. Had a piston hit a valve so piston is done and I might have a lil scaring in a cylinder so machine shop needs to check it out first. Parts for the build and labor price look ok so far?

 

I have no idea what a good stock style piston would be. I went with JE forged because I thought I was going with N20, but never did. You may be able to scrounge around here or e-bay or somewhere to find some stock style pistons for sale...

 

Mahle is a good piston but they are not the cheapest. IIRC the stock pistons are Mahle

I have SRP forged pistons

 

You are correct, stock pistons are Mahle. I would try to find a good piston on rock auto. Are you getting your gaskets and stuff from rock auto as well, that will save some cash.

Also OP, stuff like freeze plugs should be included from the machine shop I would hope. I just paid $700 for my block to be line bored, cleaned, honed, new freeze plugs, new main caps, crank turned, and new cam bearings installed.

 

I used Keith Black in mine.