Blind898

iTrader: (1)

Engine is in the car. Removing the steam pipe to clean it. Passanger side bolt came off fine. Very clogged. Went to get the driver side off and have 0 room for a ratchet to fit so had to chance it with a box wrench. Of course it now started to round. I can fit a socket over the bolt but can't get a ratchet on the back side. Any suggestions on tools to grip this sucker and get it off to replace it. I tryed looking for a wrench that grips rounded bolt heads but can't seem to find such tool. Maybe a socket a wrench can grab too but I also can't find one of that size. Any ideas would be big help. (I'm also aware the last ditch option is dropping the motor / K member enough to get a ratchet to fit. Will do that if all else fails.)

smitty2919

They make what looks like a socket but is used to remove rounded bolts. It has reverse flutes that grab bolt heads. On the backside of this it looks like a bolt head that you can get a closed end wrench on.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hanson-39...Piece/16494336

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

When you get it out Do this my friend
https://www.ebay.com/i/192126687240?...D1231680000441

BALLSS

if you can get a socket on it, use a pair of channel locks on the socket

IDK if something like penetrating oil will help

You need to replace the washer gaskets on re-install if the old ones are toast when you do get the bolt out. Two per side sandwiching the steam pipe

Blind898

iTrader: (1)

I was looking at those but wasn't able to find one the size needed for the bolt its self.

@96lt1m6 I would love to but dosnt looks like they make kits for LT1 (that i was able to find) and all suggestions for do it yourself is to tap the hole. Dont want to mess with tapping it unless the engines out the car.

@****** Will do sir. Ty

BALLSS

IDK if you can still purchase the banjo bolts. If the bolt head is compromised I would try and get a replacement for it instead of re-using it

Blind898

iTrader: (1)

http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/cool...camaro-firebird/

I came across this a week ago. Ima try a junk yard this weekend but this will be my fall back plan.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I've used large vice grips and a hammer to knock rounded banjo bolts off before.

BALLSS

if you do get a junk yard bolt, these are the washers you need. Some have found a size that fits by using oil drain plug washers with the rubber at auto part stores. IIRC these were only a few $ when I got them at dealer parts counter

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

[QUOTE=Blind898;19648017]I was looking at those but wasn't able to find one the size needed for the bolt its self.

@96lt1m6 I would love to but dosnt looks like they make kits for LT1 (that i was able to find) and all suggestions for do it yourself is to tap the hole. Dont want to mess with tapping it unless the engines out

Sorry bud, watch this video

smitty2919

Looks like a solution right there!

Find fittings with the same thread as OEM bolt and route some lines.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Just FYI the crossover tube is still available with bolts that are much better than stock. A bit pricey:

http://www.zip-corvette.com/95-96-lt...GWcBoCDMDw_wcB

I bought one after testing the tensile strength of my last one when taking the engine out the bottom a few years ago. Did not like the seals that came with it so got different ones.

smitty2919

Anyone know the thread of the holes? Should be easy peasy to add some AN fittings like the video.

BUT you will be paying like $10-20 per fitting I would guess. I used AN swivel fittings when adding a PS cooler to the front of my car. Dem little buggers add up

Blind898

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=96lt1m6;19648402]Iv found plenty of videos of fitting people made themselves. And some that said they bolted right now and never had an issue. But there also is a slight thread difference between the heads and the fitting that could justify tapping it. I'll have to look it up later to explain. Between making your own or getting a replacment stock pipe it's still between 80 to 100 for the right stuff.

I couldnt get the drive side bolt off at all. Even with a bolt extractor socket and a pipe wrench on it it's just a no go with it in the car. I could just pull the head but I'm thinking I'm goin to leave it. Only the passager side was clogged and that's been cleaned. When I back feed water into the pipe I can see water come out the driver side block and none from the passager so that's what got me to mess with the bolts in the first place.

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Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Thread is a straight 1/4, so a regular fitting from a store or AN stuff with be a tapered 1/4 thread.

Is it right? No
Will it work fine? Yes

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

^^^
Yeah I remember a pretty heated debate over that subject a few years ago.

Blind898

iTrader: (1)

Lol I found that thread. Very interesting reading.

CFLFORMULA93

can someone post up a link to the debate if its handy..aside from wanting to read it does this only apply to stock heads? doing an fittings on a set of tfs or afr heads pose the same issue?

Blind898

iTrader: (1)

http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92914

This is one of a few I found with alot of good info.

And here's one more with parts list on converting it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/1312286-coolant-crossover-conversion-part-list-pictures.html

CFLFORMULA93

i thought there was a big debate on here about it but i cant seem to find it....wanna say it was when 96capricemgr was posting all the time...whatever happened to dwayne?