What to do and when
#1
What to do and when
Hey guys, I've acquired a 95 z28 a few days ago. It's got 85,000 miles on it, bone stock to the core. Down to the paper air filter. Only thing it has going for it is a brand new set of heads but even they're just the OE heads. It's a 4l60e auto car and I need some direction on where to start with the build. I've read anywhere from start from the back end and move forward to just bolting on a 150 shot as to where to start. I just want a car that runs low 13's high 12's and can still be my daily. If someone could give direction from experience what they'd do in what order to see the most gains I'd appreciate it! Just wanna see what all you guys have to say
#2
TECH Regular
Budget? You can't goose a stock engine with a 150 horse puff and keep its long-term reliability. It may do it for a bit, but eventually it'll go boom. The trans is another weak link - the 4L60 isn't exactly stout in stock form. And don't forget the stall.
#3
Something I wrote up for the site back when I was a moderator a billion years ago.
Some of this is not the best information anymore, but the general bolt-ons are there and any number or combination of these will get you low 13's high 12's
My suggestion: Stall, Gears, Intake, Headers, Cutout, LCA's. None of those mods will affect reliability.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...s-newbies.html
Some of this is not the best information anymore, but the general bolt-ons are there and any number or combination of these will get you low 13's high 12's
My suggestion: Stall, Gears, Intake, Headers, Cutout, LCA's. None of those mods will affect reliability.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...s-newbies.html
#5
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (31)
Do all the bolt ons, they work!!!!
Cold air kit or Ls1 lid, SLP rocks.
1.6 rockers ( I have a spare set not using)
Springs, 7/16 studs
flat guide plates
Chromoly push rods
160° thermostat
Electric water pump
3200-3600 stall ( big *** cooler)
3.42 or 3.73 gears
TUNE, TUNE, TUNE, TUNE, TUNE
Drag Radials
Instant smile on your face
Cold air kit or Ls1 lid, SLP rocks.
1.6 rockers ( I have a spare set not using)
Springs, 7/16 studs
flat guide plates
Chromoly push rods
160° thermostat
Electric water pump
3200-3600 stall ( big *** cooler)
3.42 or 3.73 gears
TUNE, TUNE, TUNE, TUNE, TUNE
Drag Radials
Instant smile on your face
Last edited by 96lt1m6; 07-05-2017 at 08:11 PM.
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Cold air intake, mac mid length headers for ease of installation, good flowing catback, mail order tune from Solomon, Ed Wright, or Moe Bailey.
That combo should be good for low 13s with traction.
Minor mods to consider- 1le intake elbow, airfoil, throttle body bypass, cat delete with macs offroad ory.
More serious mods to run 12s- small cam, roller rockers, hardened pushrods, electric water pump and 160 thermostat. At this point your digging into the motor and reliability can become an issue. And better rear end gears always help too.
That combo should be good for low 13s with traction.
Minor mods to consider- 1le intake elbow, airfoil, throttle body bypass, cat delete with macs offroad ory.
More serious mods to run 12s- small cam, roller rockers, hardened pushrods, electric water pump and 160 thermostat. At this point your digging into the motor and reliability can become an issue. And better rear end gears always help too.
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#8
For a cat back system does anyone know if you see more gains out of magnaflow or SLP? I work at an auto parts store and I can get the 15620 magnaflow system for $280 or SLP for $380. I don't mind the sound because I'm going for performance.
#9
Intake and Exhaust are the two basics.
Headers
gears: 3:73
Mail Order Tune
New valve springs regardless of what order you do mods...but near the top. Your 85k mi stockers are tired.
Do 1:6 RR when you do springs
Then just drive the car and have fun. When the itch for more power comes the next steps cost $ and require "other" mods to support them
Cam
Heads
New Tune (and another if you do the converter after HC tune)
Higher Stall Torque Converter
BUILT TRANS!!!
Suspension
and yeah Brakes, Cooling system, power steering, etc, etc all need to be maintained and repaired/replaced as necessary
Headers
gears: 3:73
Mail Order Tune
New valve springs regardless of what order you do mods...but near the top. Your 85k mi stockers are tired.
Do 1:6 RR when you do springs
Then just drive the car and have fun. When the itch for more power comes the next steps cost $ and require "other" mods to support them
Cam
Heads
New Tune (and another if you do the converter after HC tune)
Higher Stall Torque Converter
BUILT TRANS!!!
Suspension
and yeah Brakes, Cooling system, power steering, etc, etc all need to be maintained and repaired/replaced as necessary
#11
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
My magnaflow catback through mac mids and no cats sounds good. It has a low tone relatively quiet idle. Mid rpm it starts pushing out a nice deep moderately loud rumble. At WOT its loud and sounds awesome. No rasp at all. Its a free flowing muffler with no chambers inside it so im sure it doesnt restrict more than a few hp.
#14
My magnaflow catback through mac mids and no cats sounds good. It has a low tone relatively quiet idle. Mid rpm it starts pushing out a nice deep moderately loud rumble. At WOT its loud and sounds awesome. No rasp at all. Its a free flowing muffler with no chambers inside it so im sure it doesnt restrict more than a few hp.
#16
If you want to breath and do it cheaply, the most efficient option is long tubes with a cutout as far down the I-Pipe as possible. Its loud, but its the best flowing option and its cheap. When you want the quiet ride again, put the plate back on the cutout and you are back to sounding stock and nobody is the wiser.
#18
Depends on what your budget is 12-13's is going to cost $$$, I like doing weight reduction and suspension. Relocating the battery to the trunk,taking out those rear seats... replacing heavy stock suspension pieces with lighter ones. You'd be surprised just how much quicker you can make that car by fooling with it's suspension and weight reduction alone.
#19